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fyi, from the old "estimate your frontal area" days, the least distorted image would be from far away via telephoto. But it sounds like y'all have found a good fit.

Or some sort of impression, that is cut flat and scanned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
winzeracer, I sent you a PM, but, apparently they are not functioning, because I also sent one to arber333 and my sent messages box shows nothing sent to either of you. If you care to exchange emails, I would like to contact you.
mine is hmincr at g mail
Harold
 

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Trying to locate a splined hub to get a quote on a broach. Hang in there.
I assembled my motor with insert coupler. One side has smooth shaft other has splines. http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1001458&postcount=2047

Or here:
https://mazdamx3ev.wordpress.com/2018/05/17/sklopka-ven/

Main thing is i found bare lovejoy coupler pair with insert for some 60€. Then i cut out clutch hub with splines and made a seat in coupler. That way splines actually transfer torque without being welded. I wanted to avoid that so as not to weaken splines.
One could do the same for Leaf motor and transmission on the other side. This kind of joint can eat some missalignment and still be hardy enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I follow what you did, but, I still need a splined hub. The particular car (s) that you referred to are simply not readily available in the USA. My Son is checking with inport car repair shops to see if anyone can offer a supply house to purchase a clutch disc.



Those ebay links you provided all have a 3 piece kit and shipping all that would be almost $400.00, just to get a splined hub piece. I was offered a CAD drawing file for nearly that much, but, I simply don't have that kind of money to take a chance on moving enough couplers to recover my expenses.


There is no telling what a broach will cost. A splined hub would get me way down the road to pricing out product. I was hoping someone in Europe would assist me with procuring and mailing a hub, since this forum is viewed world wide.
 

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I follow what you did, but, I still need a splined hub. The particular car (s) that you referred to are simply not readily available in the USA. My Son is checking with inport car repair shops to see if anyone can offer a supply house to purchase a clutch disc.



Those ebay links you provided all have a 3 piece kit and shipping all that would be almost $400.00, just to get a splined hub piece. I was offered a CAD drawing file for nearly that much, but, I simply don't have that kind of money to take a chance on moving enough couplers to recover my expenses.


There is no telling what a broach will cost. A splined hub would get me way down the road to pricing out product. I was hoping someone in Europe would assist me with procuring and mailing a hub, since this forum is viewed world wide.
Oh... in that case i recommend you find a machinist that can make you a splined hub directly from those couplers. I find them very sturdy cast steel. It may also be tempered. File draw shows shiny steel surface.

In case you have some event it will also provide good sacrificial element so transmission or motor splines remain intact.

In case you go through i recommend you make a loose fit in splines and cut the coupler in half. Then make M8 threaded hole so the bolt will tighten the hub. Like this or this.
 

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I assembled my motor with insert coupler. One side has smooth shaft other has splines. http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1001458&postcount=2047

Or here:
https://mazdamx3ev.wordpress.com/2018/05/17/sklopka-ven/

Main thing is i found bare lovejoy coupler pair with insert for some 60€. Then i cut out clutch hub with splines and made a seat in coupler. That way splines actually transfer torque without being welded. I wanted to avoid that so as not to weaken splines.
One could do the same for Leaf motor and transmission on the other side. This kind of joint can eat some missalignment and still be hardy enough.


This type of coupling is great if the 2 shafts being connected are well supported by bearings. Electric motors are usually OK for this, but the transmission input shaft may not be. With your fingers, check to see if the transmission input shaft moves freely side to side. If it does, it means by design it is not well supported inside the transmission and needs the pilot bearing for proper support. And, not a good set-up for this type of coupling.


A loose input shaft, under load with this type of coupling, can move around excessively and cause damage to bearings and gears inside the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
This is exactly why I am trying to get the correct spline pattern, and add a flange for connecting to flange on transmission shaft with a possible bushing or needle bearing for support.


I have milling machine, metal lathe, bandsaws, oxy/acy torch, etc. in Fl, just waiting for me to get there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well, except for the 3 people that offered up all they could, and not a single soul in the UK offering to assist a little with a clutch hub, even though I have offered payment for helping, and parts only available in the USA for years 2012 and up, this project is officially dead.


I have my own projects to work on, so, sorry Icouldn't make these couplers available.
 
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