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Drone motors may seem like they are high power, but that HP is at an RPM that's totally useless to you for direct drive (stall) torque.
I could wheelie my parents' 15HP farm tractor; even easier with a plow on the back -- as was said, it's EXCESS torque, over and above what you're making to keep your speed or to accelerate the bike (which it tries to do vs wheelie...a well designed streetbike won't wheelie easily), that will pull the front wheel up. On a bike, that front lift is partly assisted by the front springs and the shock absorber damping rate can keep the wheel on the ground vs let it pull off.
The torque you'll need to start to lift the front wheels is the bike's mass times the distance (keep everything metric to keep it consistent) from the center of gravity to the rear axle.
Now you'll need to add another force, the one that will accelerate the front wheel into the air at a faster rate than the bike itself is accelerating due to torque on the rear wheel. That additional force times the distance you measured adds to the "cg torque" and has to outdo the acceleration of the bikes inertia.
Motorcycle dynamics can be complex, having gobs of extra torque is the easy way out of doing math to 9 decimal places.
Just remember, Mother Nature doesn't make free lunches. A high horsepower small-physical-size motor will make next to nothing for stall torque compared to a slower motor with its HP rates at low RPMs, and multistage gears, chains and belts are a bad way to get there, including that 30:1 belt reduction that's churning in your head.
I could wheelie my parents' 15HP farm tractor; even easier with a plow on the back -- as was said, it's EXCESS torque, over and above what you're making to keep your speed or to accelerate the bike (which it tries to do vs wheelie...a well designed streetbike won't wheelie easily), that will pull the front wheel up. On a bike, that front lift is partly assisted by the front springs and the shock absorber damping rate can keep the wheel on the ground vs let it pull off.
The torque you'll need to start to lift the front wheels is the bike's mass times the distance (keep everything metric to keep it consistent) from the center of gravity to the rear axle.
Now you'll need to add another force, the one that will accelerate the front wheel into the air at a faster rate than the bike itself is accelerating due to torque on the rear wheel. That additional force times the distance you measured adds to the "cg torque" and has to outdo the acceleration of the bikes inertia.
Motorcycle dynamics can be complex, having gobs of extra torque is the easy way out of doing math to 9 decimal places.
Just remember, Mother Nature doesn't make free lunches. A high horsepower small-physical-size motor will make next to nothing for stall torque compared to a slower motor with its HP rates at low RPMs, and multistage gears, chains and belts are a bad way to get there, including that 30:1 belt reduction that's churning in your head.
