How to program zivan ng3 charger?
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Joined
·
190 Posts
be very carefull. I have a second hand NG3 and it's configured to 120 volt PB. the company in San fran is very tight lipped about mods. their only answer is send it to us for a credit and refit. Cost?? my unit workes great on my PB pack at 230 volts input which is a little bit limiting, as I would also like the 110 volt option, when I wrote to them for a conversion they told me that they were hard wired single input/output only i.e. 230 volt or 110 volt only. but I would like to reconfigure it too I think they are spacifically designed and ordered from the factory. now my unit chagres my 120 volt pack @ 22 amps to 144 volts and 18 amps to 165 volts WONDERFULLY, very little gassing and a perfect PB balancing charge still it is a little limited. My unit still has the factory tape seals and I'm loath to break them but it might come down to It, as Im considering upping my pack to 144 volts PB. I did come across an article here where a member had broke the seals and adjusted his unit, If I do that I will report here. good luck
The opportunities of adjustment are not many. You have to replace some hardware, if you want to make a great step in voltage for example.
The charge curves are programmed on a chip, which is changable as I know so far. My NG3 has a selector for some charge curves, "7" is for my LiFePo4s, but this might be different to other chargers.
Perhaps Roger or Dimi can tell you something more accurate informations about it.
The charge curves are programmed on a chip, which is changable as I know so far. My NG3 has a selector for some charge curves, "7" is for my LiFePo4s, but this might be different to other chargers.
Perhaps Roger or Dimi can tell you something more accurate informations about it.
Attachments
Thanks for the pic. I have adjusted my ng3 for 52 lifepo's but once it reaches the float voltage (which ends up being 3.45vpc) it then goes into float mode (it was lead acid model before.) It will then float up and up until the hvc of 3.7 (at 1.4 amps) a cell so it doesnt shut off at any useful level (i use a timer.)
I'll add there are 2 pots for adjusting finishing voltage (where it would then go to stage 3 if its a lead acid verison) and one for current out (dc.)
I didnt know about that selector switch perhaps I can get it to cc/cv then shut off with no 3rd float stage (i.e. delete the float stage.)
Was your ng3 lead acid and you found a 2 stage setting on that switch?
thanks very much
I'll add there are 2 pots for adjusting finishing voltage (where it would then go to stage 3 if its a lead acid verison) and one for current out (dc.)
I didnt know about that selector switch perhaps I can get it to cc/cv then shut off with no 3rd float stage (i.e. delete the float stage.)
Was your ng3 lead acid and you found a 2 stage setting on that switch?
thanks very much
My NG3 was delivered with an cutoff voltage of 136,8V.
With one of the two pots inside, you can adjust the voltage ~10% to ~20%. In my case it is exactly 157,8V max output voltage (+15,35%).
It is important to reduce the current (with the other pot), so the output doesn't get higher than 2160W.
The gray charge curve selector could be a dip switch or a jumper at older models.
My charge curve starts with a constant current and switches into a constant voltage mode and reduces the current until it reaches zero by defined maximum voltage.
Very stable, very easy to use. I plug it in at late afternoon and plug it out next day morning. I drove 1000 miles with the SE/CALBs without a bms.
Our german Zivan distributor is very cooperative and helpful but to change the curves, they have to get the charger or you must order the correct designation of the needed chip, as I understood.
I will get a closer look to my chip and post it.
With one of the two pots inside, you can adjust the voltage ~10% to ~20%. In my case it is exactly 157,8V max output voltage (+15,35%).
It is important to reduce the current (with the other pot), so the output doesn't get higher than 2160W.
The gray charge curve selector could be a dip switch or a jumper at older models.
My charge curve starts with a constant current and switches into a constant voltage mode and reduces the current until it reaches zero by defined maximum voltage.
Very stable, very easy to use. I plug it in at late afternoon and plug it out next day morning. I drove 1000 miles with the SE/CALBs without a bms.
Our german Zivan distributor is very cooperative and helpful but to change the curves, they have to get the charger or you must order the correct designation of the needed chip, as I understood.
I will get a closer look to my chip and post it.
I just bought the NG3 for $500.00 new from a guy who bought it several months ago and never hooked it up. The sticker says 144 volts at 11 amps. But I don't know the AH of the batteries he used. I may need to adjust that only because I already have a 144 volt system.
I found my fotos of the inside of my NG3.
The chip I use is a "NGMW8" and the charge curve it uses at selector "7" is the number "49" (attached). It works fine so far (LiFePo4 SkyEnergy/CALB at 3,5V max.).
If you look directly to the circuit board, the left poti is to setup the current, the right one is the adjustment of the voltage.
You can get 2,16kW output at 230V (german lower voltage standard, like your 110V).
The datasheet from Zivan NG3 says f.ex.:
72V/30A
96V/22A
120V/18A
144V/15A
180V/12A
The chip I use is a "NGMW8" and the charge curve it uses at selector "7" is the number "49" (attached). It works fine so far (LiFePo4 SkyEnergy/CALB at 3,5V max.).
If you look directly to the circuit board, the left poti is to setup the current, the right one is the adjustment of the voltage.
You can get 2,16kW output at 230V (german lower voltage standard, like your 110V).
The datasheet from Zivan NG3 says f.ex.:
72V/30A
96V/22A
120V/18A
144V/15A
180V/12A
Attachments
I got some informations from Roger and from my distributor from Germany (Atech). The "A" was the curve that doesn't worked, so I took this picture and asked about it. They answered me, that if you open the case, you have to be careful. Often you get close to the selektor and switch without noticing. That was my fault
These are informations, that I got myself from other helpers, so i kindly give my best to help the community myself
It's a "7" on our selector.
Joined
·
190 Posts
Very interestring stuff guys! I guess the trade secret really lies with getting the factory settings for the selector on the left of the board, I am also curious about measuring the current? I understand measuring and adjusting the voltage setting ( right pot) but what do you use to measure the current( the left pot)? In line ampmeter? and does anyone have either the settings or a link to the settings? thanks again. I still have the factory seals on mine and am very hesitatant ( aaafffffraid!!) to open the case!!
Well sort of sucess.
In my manual there isnt any phase 1,2,off setting. There is however something I consider better. Setting f goes to float at .7amps. The minibms keeps up with that (where its previous setting was 1.4 amps then float it couldnt keep up.) Now once the cells were all ballanced the voltage didnt rise and that is a condition of calling the charge finished in the curve. For the first time the charger went green (end of charge) because the resistors keep up with the finishing current (and I can easily ballance my cells.) Thanks for the help.
In my manual there isnt any phase 1,2,off setting. There is however something I consider better. Setting f goes to float at .7amps. The minibms keeps up with that (where its previous setting was 1.4 amps then float it couldnt keep up.) Now once the cells were all ballanced the voltage didnt rise and that is a condition of calling the charge finished in the curve. For the first time the charger went green (end of charge) because the resistors keep up with the finishing current (and I can easily ballance my cells.) Thanks for the help.
do you mean the anderson connectors?
http://www.google.com/products/cata...&sa=X&ei=8PYqTsxT4cKxAuKL5ZwL&ved=0CFEQ8wIwAQ#
http://www.google.com/products/cata...&sa=X&ei=8PYqTsxT4cKxAuKL5ZwL&ved=0CFEQ8wIwAQ#
I use a clamp ampmeter (Uni-T UT203) to measure the amps and secondly I got a LEM HAS 200 to count amphours in and out. This shows me the amps on a display, but only two counters (f.e. 12A).
Be aware of getting an electric shock!!!
Unfortunately you could only adjust the voltage and current while case is opened, so be very careful!!!
Get isolated gloves, if you are not confident in doing that.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Join the discussion
