[BenNelson]

Hello!

Does anyone know how to use an Artesyn DC/DC power module? The one I have, I picked up from E-Bay for $10. It is a model BXB100-48S12FLT.

Right on the device, it says 36-75V input, 12V output.

I would like to use it to create a 12-volt output from the 36volt battery system on my electric motorcycle to run the headlight and turn signals.

I have no clue how to get voltage out of this device.

A PDF document about it is located at:
http://www.artesyn.com/media/pdfs/bxb100s.pdf

Please let me know if you can figure it out. I can't really drive my EV cycle until I get this taken car of.

Thanks in advance,

-Ben

 

[rbgrn]

Looks to me like you connect your 36v input source to VI+ and VI- then Vo+ and Vo- are your 12v output. The Sensitivity connectors are for external output trimming. From the center to the + trims up and center to - trims down. I'm guessing it sends a very small voltage through those lines and a potentiometer would trim it. I couldn't find that info on your datasheet though.

 

[TexomaEV]

My DC/DC converter module that I'm using has the negative sense wire tied to the -Vout, and the positive sense wire tied to the +Vout. I'm driving the DC/DC converter with a 24volt pack, and the output of the DC/DC converter is feeding an aux 12 volt battery. I added a blocking diode on the positive output wire of the DC/DC converter, so that when the aux battery is good and juiced up from being on a charger, it doesn't feed back into the converter, and the converter isn't feeding the aux battery any voltage, until the aux battery gets low enough to need it. My converter only has 12vdc out, which isn't truely enough to recharge the aux battery completely, yet helps keep the aux battery from being over discharged, and keeps all the 12volt accessories happy. I recharge the Aux battery with a separate charger while charging all of the other battery banks in the EV. NOTE: Headlights are a bit dim when the aux battery gets down to 12vdc, but I don't drive the EV at night.

 

[BenNelson]

OK, I got it figured out.

I hooked everything up and a 12V car headlamp to the output.

I test jumpered the "RC" (remote control?) pin to any other likely pins until the headlamp turned on.

On this module, the RC pin needs to be connected to the -IN pin.

My volt meter said the converter outputs 12.4 to 12.5 volts. Sounds good enough the headlight to me.

-Ben

 

[BenNelson]

Hey everyone,

I worked on my bike again today (8/19/07)

I finally have hi/lo beam, turn signals, horn all rigged up and running through the DC/DC converter.

I also put the tacometer back on because it has two indicator lights built in.
I rigged up the one indicator light to flash when the turn signals do, so I remember to turn my blinkers back off.

The other light, I set up to be on when the DC/DC converter is on, and thus my lights and other accessories.

I noticed that when I accellerated quickly that my "ON" light would turn off for a second, and then back on once the cycle was up to speed or I didn't gun it so hard.

I have my volt meter hooked up, and noticed that the voltage of my main battery pack drops quicker the more amps I am using. Thus, when I accellerate quickly, the voltage of the main pack drops below 33 volts on my 36 volt system.

The DC/DC converter is marked as being 36 to 75 Volt. It cuts out at 33 volts.

So, it looks like I need to have a small accessory battery that is charged by the converter.

Also, the final plan for my cycle is to have it run at 48 volts. In a 48v system, I don't think the pack should ever drop under 33 volts under load.

-Ben