Hyper9 comments - see 'THE Hyper9 Thread' for more
The Netgain Hyper9 page is here >>>>>> The Hyper-9 Thread <<< <<<<< A place for Tips, Tricks, Experiences ..
This was just a 'starterpage' that I didn't originally have the credentials to start.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
As hyper9's are getting a very popular choice - especially with Electric Classic Cars followers (in Social Media and TV: Vintage Voltage), as a not quite 'Drop-In' conversion option.
But .. do a search and there are not many tips, tricks and experiences.
SO .. as this forum is much more permanent, and easy to find stuff than facebook EV groups (and their 'random' newsfeeds) etc.
I hope other Hyper9 users agree and you'll add experiences (good and bad), tips, tricks and general open sharing of knowledge.
To kick off:
I chose a Hyper9 because: it was lightish (60kg), and low voltage (125v) .. so would work with 5 Tesla Modules. I needed light as poss and approx 120bhp for a 1969 Lotus 'Elon' to match original weight (achieved with 20kg saving) and power. Project > MAS Design Products Ltd. - Design Engineering Inventing www.instagram.com/lotus_elon/ https://twitter.com/LotusElon
Below is 'work in progress' motor just fitted now a bit tidier
![121868]()
Problems:
1. Controller - blew (but reborn)
With system all off - a cheap chinese main battery voltage gauge shorted and sent a spike to earth, this back tracked and took out both the prius throttle pedal and several controller circuits. I checked wiring (for the nth time) and found there was a problem in the controller. I asked local supplier and Netgain about repairs, and bottom line the shipping investigation and fixes would probably cost as much as a new controller. Also, as its a DIY item unless parts are DOA, there would be no warrantee ;-( . So bit the bullet and bought another as rest of car was just working well (and frankly I was a bit impatient !) .. £2200 lighter and the new one slotted in - fixed .
BUT out of interest (I wish I'd tried this before) - I opened the old controller and found:
TIP: all low voltage connections are protected by tiny surface mount fuses. I know surface mount is a challenge but with a magnifying glass and a solder fuse wire the controller was brought back from the dead !! (now a spare .. or possibly for another project).
![121869]()
2. Wire colours
Maybe I got a bad loom, but I found some colours just did not match the manual - K1-21 was yellow )Not black/blue) and K1-32 was blue not white /green .
TIPS:
1. Calling netgain works better than emails... and Hunter is a gent, and real bundle of knowledge .. I just wish he'd add what he knows to the website/instructions
2. Use as many soldered joints as possible - more reliable than crimps (or for 'belt and braces' crimp AND solder)
3. Check wiring 3 x !!
4. Controller gets warm without cooling plate but stays cool with plate and even small water flow. Motor stays cooler than batteries when pressing on (now I've added more battery cooling)
5. Get the compact display - it adds easy control of 3 modes of regen (1 more thans a tesla !!) AND if set wheel diameter to 85mm the speed shown is RPM
6. Beg Hunter for the OEM /dealer version of the SME Tau software .. Warning: you CAN kill yourself/system ... but at the very least it allows you to lower the frequency of the contactor to make it almost silent !!! (and adds many more useful options).
Discussion / Questions / Requests
1. Voltage sag
Working with low voltage system eg 125v vs usual 400v There can be A LOT of voltage sag under full power ... as below:
![121870]()
This means that although the full 800/850 Amps can be pulled, the voltage drops at ~70% SOC from ~118v to ~95v
So giving only 800a x 95v = 76kW, but without voltage sag, say at 125v / (~ 95% SOC) this would be up to 800a x 125v = 100Kw (130 BHP).
Future experiment ... use a higher pack voltage, say 144v (on the low voltage Hyper9) but only charge to say 90% SOC (ie just under max 132V) to get the full 100Kw more easily. Thoughts ??
2. Help:
I want a switch (on gear stick) to switch regen off, on demand, to make gear changes easier (rotor is similar weight with clutch flywheel) .
But I can't work out anything better than a switch to turn off drive - which is OK for upshifts, but this looses throttle for downshifts ??
3. Help:
Any canBUS gurus ? who can offer a drop in connection to the SME canbus output ? eg to say a bluetooth code reader ?? or other gauges / rpm temps etc.
(I cheated and used the existing analogue dials )
Sorry to go on but, overall v happy with the Hyper9 AND I'm
looking forward to hearing other peoples Hyper9 experiences, tips and discussions ON HERE >>>>>> The Hyper-9 Thread <<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Cheers,
Mark, Dorset, UK
This was just a 'starterpage' that I didn't originally have the credentials to start.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
As hyper9's are getting a very popular choice - especially with Electric Classic Cars followers (in Social Media and TV: Vintage Voltage), as a not quite 'Drop-In' conversion option.
But .. do a search and there are not many tips, tricks and experiences.
SO .. as this forum is much more permanent, and easy to find stuff than facebook EV groups (and their 'random' newsfeeds) etc.
I hope other Hyper9 users agree and you'll add experiences (good and bad), tips, tricks and general open sharing of knowledge.
To kick off:
I chose a Hyper9 because: it was lightish (60kg), and low voltage (125v) .. so would work with 5 Tesla Modules. I needed light as poss and approx 120bhp for a 1969 Lotus 'Elon' to match original weight (achieved with 20kg saving) and power. Project > MAS Design Products Ltd. - Design Engineering Inventing www.instagram.com/lotus_elon/ https://twitter.com/LotusElon
Below is 'work in progress' motor just fitted now a bit tidier
Problems:
1. Controller - blew (but reborn)
With system all off - a cheap chinese main battery voltage gauge shorted and sent a spike to earth, this back tracked and took out both the prius throttle pedal and several controller circuits. I checked wiring (for the nth time) and found there was a problem in the controller. I asked local supplier and Netgain about repairs, and bottom line the shipping investigation and fixes would probably cost as much as a new controller. Also, as its a DIY item unless parts are DOA, there would be no warrantee ;-( . So bit the bullet and bought another as rest of car was just working well (and frankly I was a bit impatient !) .. £2200 lighter and the new one slotted in - fixed .
BUT out of interest (I wish I'd tried this before) - I opened the old controller and found:
TIP: all low voltage connections are protected by tiny surface mount fuses. I know surface mount is a challenge but with a magnifying glass and a solder fuse wire the controller was brought back from the dead !! (now a spare .. or possibly for another project).
2. Wire colours
Maybe I got a bad loom, but I found some colours just did not match the manual - K1-21 was yellow )Not black/blue) and K1-32 was blue not white /green .
TIPS:
1. Calling netgain works better than emails... and Hunter is a gent, and real bundle of knowledge .. I just wish he'd add what he knows to the website/instructions
2. Use as many soldered joints as possible - more reliable than crimps (or for 'belt and braces' crimp AND solder)
3. Check wiring 3 x !!
4. Controller gets warm without cooling plate but stays cool with plate and even small water flow. Motor stays cooler than batteries when pressing on (now I've added more battery cooling)
5. Get the compact display - it adds easy control of 3 modes of regen (1 more thans a tesla !!) AND if set wheel diameter to 85mm the speed shown is RPM
6. Beg Hunter for the OEM /dealer version of the SME Tau software .. Warning: you CAN kill yourself/system ... but at the very least it allows you to lower the frequency of the contactor to make it almost silent !!! (and adds many more useful options).
Discussion / Questions / Requests
1. Voltage sag
Working with low voltage system eg 125v vs usual 400v There can be A LOT of voltage sag under full power ... as below:
This means that although the full 800/850 Amps can be pulled, the voltage drops at ~70% SOC from ~118v to ~95v
So giving only 800a x 95v = 76kW, but without voltage sag, say at 125v / (~ 95% SOC) this would be up to 800a x 125v = 100Kw (130 BHP).
Future experiment ... use a higher pack voltage, say 144v (on the low voltage Hyper9) but only charge to say 90% SOC (ie just under max 132V) to get the full 100Kw more easily. Thoughts ??
2. Help:
I want a switch (on gear stick) to switch regen off, on demand, to make gear changes easier (rotor is similar weight with clutch flywheel) .
But I can't work out anything better than a switch to turn off drive - which is OK for upshifts, but this looses throttle for downshifts ??
3. Help:
Any canBUS gurus ? who can offer a drop in connection to the SME canbus output ? eg to say a bluetooth code reader ?? or other gauges / rpm temps etc.
(I cheated and used the existing analogue dials
)Sorry to go on but, overall v happy with the Hyper9 AND I'm
looking forward to hearing other peoples Hyper9 experiences, tips and discussions ON HERE >>>>>> The Hyper-9 Thread <<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Cheers,
Mark, Dorset, UK
