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I bought a Tesla Model S Gen 2 Charger - Now What?

17403 Views 150 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  grahammoore1
Let me start off by saying how much I appreciate the folks on this Tesla 10Kw Open Source Charger Controller forum and the Tesla Charger Support Thread on the Open Inverter dot Org forum for doing all the heavy lifting for us to make this used Tesla Model S Gen 2 onboard charger a possibility in our EV Conversions.

I assume like most of you reading this, I have read the Gen2 Wiki, I have downloaded the Tesla Charger Evbmw Llogic Board Manual PDFs, I have watched their The Tesla Project : Charger 10kw Run YouTube videos. Having said that I firmly believe there is still a gap between those folks and those of us born without the Electrical Engineering set of chromosomes. That's where this thread comes in, help me document on the Duplo level what we will need to go from eBay order of one used charger to actually charging our converted vehicle using basic Level 1 SAE J1772 plug/connection (baby steps). I am happy to document it all (in pictures mind you), and buy all the bits and parts, I just need you to help me fill the gaps.

I hope to keep this thread wiring diagram free, ha ha, yes that's the level of simplicity I am striving for. OK, so here is what I know and here is what I got so far.

Assumptions: We will start off by doing this for the US, if we have input from across the pond I can add those updates too.
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
PARTS NEEDED SECTION

1. Charger - Tesla Gen2 Charger Compatibility and Ebay WARNING

Input Voltage110V-277V
Input Current<40 Amps
Input Voltage TypeAlternating Current
Input Current TypeAlternating Current
Total Charge Rate10 kW
CoolingLiquid
Weight16 kg (35.2 lbs.)
Dimensions500x300x100mm (19.69x11.81x3.94” in.)
Phase Countup to 3 phases

not all Gen 2 onboard chargers were created equally in other words they all may work fine in an actual Tesla but they don't all lend themselves to a DIY EV Conversion open source charger setup

avoid these SUPER CHRGR ones​
as well as the -05- version​
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Gen 1 vs Gen 2 Form Factor
(how to tell them apart)

Gen 1 has sharp edges
Gen 2 has rounded edges
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2. Tesla Gen 2 Charger Logic Board from Damien Maguire's EVBMW.com web shop Price: 270.00€ this is a direct replacement and lives inside the stock charger housing, you unscrew the old board and screw this one in it's place, well after a bit of programitization of course

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V5 Logic board for the Tesla GEN2 onboard battery charger.
Soldering required
Connectors NOT supplied. Please see attached connector BOM for part details.
Supplied fully programmed with WiFi module.
Fits all GEN2 chargers both master and slave.
Price includes worldwide tracked postage.
Fully open source project.
Support via the openinverter.org Forum
Software and resources available on Github

Charger running at full power
Delivery : 1-3 weeks from order depending on stock.
No tax or other surcharges.

3. AC / DC Connectors - I'm guessing these are going to carry the AC electrons from the wall of our garage to the DC electrons in our battery pack, I have not seen any pics of these DIY wiring diagrams or DIY connections yet, will post them when I find some, if you did this already please share some pics with us

housing 044441-2006
pins 0433753001
Blade Contact 18-20 AWG
(I would shoot for thicker gauge wire)
433740001 14-16 AWG​
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4. Logic Connectors - so aside from 12 volts power and a ground these will run two additional skinny wires to the charge port one for the Proximity Signal (?) and the other for the Control Pilot signal (?) (both found on the larger 12 pin plug on the right) see further below for wiring detail

PART NUMBER:194180014

MX150L 10 Circuit Receptacle for 18-22 AWG Wire, with CPA, Black
PART NUMBER:194180026

MX150L 12 Circuit Receptacle for 18-22 AWG Wire, with CPA, Black
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PART NUMBER:330122001

MX150 Female Terminal for Mat-Sealed Connectors, Tin Plating, 14 and 16 AWG, Right Reel Payoff

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5. Plug Port and Harness

So can we just use something "Universal" like this: EV Inlet Socket - 32A 250V AC Type 1 Electric Car Recharge Socket
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
DUMB QUESTION SECTION - DQS

1. Why can't we just use the Tesla socket and stock wiring harness?

well for one unless you have an actual Tesla car you can not charge at a Tesla charging station, maybe someone can further comment on that

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
alright this is driving me nuts, my pics are just disappearing off this thread !!! so moving some pics here

These are some pics of the OEM wiring harness pig tails for these two ports and what appears to be one complete segment, no idea what it actually plugs into on the Tesla

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
alright here is what plugs in to the other end on the stock vehicle it may be known as the Master High Voltage Onboard Charger Harness 1037646 it appears to go into a HVJB high voltage junction box on the other end, out of which some orange wires run to the inverter, not sure where the other orange wires go to, perhaps the battery pack, maybe someone can comment

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The High Voltage Junction Box shown below to the right of the charger with all the orange guts inside of it is for demonstration purposes only, it is not needed to get the charger to function fully. In this pic Damien was just using it so that he could easily connect thicker heavier gauge wire to the charger via the junction box.

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
ACRONYMS and more ACRONYMS

EVSE
stands for Smart Charging Solutions for Electric vehicles, say what? Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE) provides for the safe transfer of energy between the electric utility power and the EV. EVSE includes EV charge cords, charge stands (residential or public), attachment plugs, vehicle connectors, and protection. it's a darn EV charging station, that's all

Here is a good primer video on Charging Station status signals EV Charging Station EVSE - What is pilot and proximity? by OpenEVSE


HVJB, HVJB, HVJB oh the acronyms, I recon this one is High Voltage Junction Box and there may be a front one and a back of the vehicle one

OBCM - On Board Charging Module, aka Charger (basically different manufacturers come up with their own namings for things)

kWh - pronounced "gallons" as in I have a 24 gallon fuel tank (think Nissan Leaf's 24 kWh battery pack) or in the case of a Chevy Volt and it's 16 kWh battery pack size, so our analogy would say 16 gallon fuel tank, kilo Watt hours so 1,000 times Wh or Watt hours (just add three zeros "000") Tesla had a 60 kWh battery pack once, so that would have been the 60 gallon fuel tank analogy. Keep in mind that just because your fuel tank can hold 20 gallons that does not mean that's how much actual fuel you have in it at any given time, kapish.

PWM, we can't have an EV discussion without mentioning Pulse-width modulation

SAE, Society of Automotive Engineers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
LOW VOLTAGE CONTROL SIDE WIRING

alright let's label the low voltage Logical connectors and see if we can plan how to wire them up

View attachment 124083


so this is from Damien Maguire's instructions

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Following the diagram above,
  1. Connect your 12V+ to B1 (labeled 12V+) and A3 (labeled IN1)
  2. Connect your 12V- to B7 (labeled GND) and to the charger's casing (chasis ground)
  3. Connect the Proximity signal from your EVSE to B11
  4. Connect the Control Pilot signal from your EVSE to B5.
View attachment 124109
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
here's another reason why I am making this thread, I am tired of seeing these pic no longer available threads, since it is one of my pet peeves when people link to images instead of uploading them to this forum, then when the link gets broken or that hosting company goes belly up we got broken links and no pics

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
so I was just looking at this SAE J1772 plug pin out trying to get the color coding of the Proximity Signal and Control Pilot Signal wires for consistency sake. The Proximity Pilot signal indicates how much current the cable can handle.

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Pinouts for CCS Combo 1, looking at end of plug (attached to EVSE cord)
L1Line 1single-phase AC
NNeutralsingle-phase AC
CPControl pilotpost-insertion signalling
PPProximity pilotpre-insertion signalling
PEProtective earthfull-current protective earthing system
CCS Combo 1 extension adds two extra high-current DC pins underneath, and the two Alternating Current (AC) pins for Neutral and Line 1 are not populated.

And here's a look at what that hair dryer plug will actually plug into on our cars, this below is what most often is shoved inside the ol' fuel tank filler neck.

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Just jumping in to say thanks for doing all this writeup.

If we had an active and useful wiki, this would be tremendous to have linked there. I might even sticky this in the charger forum if I can figure out how.

Currently, this forum is just garbage for archiving or highlighting any kind of useful content. I've tried in the past to change that but there's always a few curmudgeonly jerks who sour the experience for anyone who might otherwise contribute or participate.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
AC Input Connector & DC Output Connector

so let's take a look at the business end of this magical box, inside there there are three power modules, so on the DC output side we get three pairs of -/+ wires, a pair goes to each one of the three modules

[a huge thanks to Yoda Artur for helping me finally get this]

pic from Damien's PDF instructions

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so this below shows Live and Neutral AC Input pins as well as the Positive and Negative DC Output pins

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DC Output Pins

Negative
Positive
Negative
Positive
Negative
Positive

In it's simplest configuration we could just wire up one module (leave the other two disconnected from both AC and DC) and only connect one Negative/Positive DC wire pair to our battery pack
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am always amazed how we can have four toolboxes full of tools in our garages and always be missing the one we need. And so I went out and bought a T20 Trex tip screw driver, I prefer vertical tools (ie screw drivers) instead of horizontal (ratchets) when working with electronics as I believe it reduces my chances of shortening ("touching") two things that don't mean to be touched

I also do not like using removable bit screw drivers as I don't know about you, but I am super good at having them fall off at the worst possible time and into the worst place

Craftsman 41475

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