DIY Electric Car Forums banner

I bought a Tesla Model S Gen 2 Charger - Now What?

19667 Views 150 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  grahammoore1
Let me start off by saying how much I appreciate the folks on this Tesla 10Kw Open Source Charger Controller forum and the Tesla Charger Support Thread on the Open Inverter dot Org forum for doing all the heavy lifting for us to make this used Tesla Model S Gen 2 onboard charger a possibility in our EV Conversions.

I assume like most of you reading this, I have read the Gen2 Wiki, I have downloaded the Tesla Charger Evbmw Llogic Board Manual PDFs, I have watched their The Tesla Project : Charger 10kw Run YouTube videos. Having said that I firmly believe there is still a gap between those folks and those of us born without the Electrical Engineering set of chromosomes. That's where this thread comes in, help me document on the Duplo level what we will need to go from eBay order of one used charger to actually charging our converted vehicle using basic Level 1 SAE J1772 plug/connection (baby steps). I am happy to document it all (in pictures mind you), and buy all the bits and parts, I just need you to help me fill the gaps.

I hope to keep this thread wiring diagram free, ha ha, yes that's the level of simplicity I am striving for. OK, so here is what I know and here is what I got so far.

Assumptions: We will start off by doing this for the US, if we have input from across the pond I can add those updates too.
Font Screenshot Parallel Electronic device Software
Electronic device Rectangle Machine Cable Wire
Gas Auto part Machine Electronic component Transparency
Font Rectangle Metal Gas Auto part
Rectangle Font Natural material Pattern Metal
Rectangle Font Wood Signage Number
Font Material property Rectangle Parallel Label
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
1 - 20 of 151 Posts
Top Tip, I like to use heat shrink tubbing on my screw drivers which I dedicate to working on high voltage electronics just for that extra layer of protection

View attachment 124140 View attachment 124141
Thread of the Year here...thanks for taking all the time to gather up the resources and write it all up.

On your screwdriver mod, the shank is still dangerous in the area where the heat shrink meets the handle. Suggest maybe a generous bead of epoxy there or PlastiDip the shank after wrapping the tip in tape.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
One thing - an EVSE has (ground) fault detection, (some/all) has/have mains overcurrent detection as well. Going directly to a dryer plug does not.

So, for safety, use that EVSE "junk" 😂 or, at least, configure your plug so it can only plug into a ground fault protected circuit, which a dryer circuit is not (it can be if you replace your garage/house dryer breakers with GFCI breakers in your electric panel). You may not always be the one plugging the car in, even though you believe you will be.

Jacket all high voltage in orange for 1st responder & tech safety.
Anyone know why the -05 chargers are blacklisted?
I did, but got distracted to come back here and post it - they're Supercharger takeouts vs onboard chargers.

Few know that the same units are used in a stack in a Supercharger as in the car -- which is what makes frothing at the mouth opposition to the salvage or converted car use of superchargers argument by Tesla fanboys somewhat lame
It's a tossup for me between J1772 and Tesla (North American), since I have both EVSE's in my garage.

As slow as my projects go (everything slid a year and a half after I taunted death with Covid last year) it's not clear that Tesla won't open up to using their charge stations by the time I'm on the road. There are adapters for both, so it's a cointoss, imo.

I like the Tesla connector's DC approach....there was no reason why J1772 could not have done DCFC on the two AC pins and beefed them up from the outset. Idiots.

This thread gave my enthusiasm the kick in the pants it's been a very slow recovery, physically & mentally. Thanks for that.
Gals down at the bowling alley are gunna be all over you after you've styled your mullet with that there hair dryer

That connector should have come up nicely with braided solder wick.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
You should be ok on the hot air reflow. Fluxed solder paste on the pads (use the syringed kind) and get as much of the excess off the connector before you start.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I need to get me one of those multidegree of FREEDOM ('murica!) clamps like you're using to hold that connector

Just the tip...only if it's clean and you promise 😂

Nice job getting the dross off those pins, on a serious note
Might want to find yourself an ESD bag for stuff like circuit boards. THEN bag the bag.

You can kill or damage parts like the microprocessors on circuit boards with the charge that ziplock bag can generate.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
You cheated and didn't fill it with coolant....

What's your thinking behind switching the negative on and off but leaving the power wire hot in a negative ground car?
For bench/floor testing it doesn't matter. Your hardwood floor is likely sitting on ground 🥴

I can foresee noobs following this thread and hooking the charger up in their cars by switching the negative wire by inference to your test setup, which is why I asked.

In a car, practice is that power is switched on and off using the positive power feed, since the negative return is usually through a hardwired chassis ground.

Putting the switch on the positive side moves your sparks to inside the switch just as does a negative side switch.

What you're doing is seemingly arbitrary and ok, it works, but it's inconsistent with installation practices.
The only thing standing between you and death is a bit of gravity

Wood Electronic engineering Cable Electronic device Gadget

Screw that down, or stop "teaching" sloppy safety practice.
See less See more
It's a bit misleading, what you're "teaching" here on the AC side.

In the US, we use a split phase, earth referenced, power system to homes.

That Tesla charger is NOT connected directly to the service panel breaker as you say, and as you have your corded connection now going to a non-GFCI, indoors range/dryer plug (yikes!). With the weight of the charger making your ground connection 😬

There's an EVSE in between the charger and plug that limits the charger current draw and that detects ground faults. You have none of that.

Charge your car in the rain on a dryer circuit without an EVSE, be the earth connection, and you're dead. You fail to mention the EVSE and a GFCI being mandatory to run this box in a garage or damp/wet place. You fail to mention that the charger needs to be set to pull maximum current of 8A in the absence of an EVSE, yet has to be on a GFCI circuit, not an ordinary breaker. Code also requires, iirc, vehicle charger plugs to be dedicated circuits for vehicle charging, not shared with your wife's clothes dryer.

In fact, you've gone to lengths to fuse (I assume that's the block you have on the DC side, though you infer with the prior post that you put an AC breaker there) the output, but have done nothing to keep from toasting the plug/socket on the input side, or from frying yourself by failing to put the charger on a GFCI circuit.

I may come across as nitpicking or as a curmudgeon (at my age, both expected and a right), but you are putting yourself on the high horse of teaching and being knowledgeable in the eyes of everyone tiring of $4/gallon gas prices(which is why the high influx of new members) yet the things you are showing, omitting, and teaching are very dangerous, can kill someone, and expose yourself to a huge lawsuit if someone or something gets cooked.

No harm in running things up the flagpole here for feedback, though. What you're doing is good stuff, but it also is very naive and possibly negligent in some areas. You have my feedback, hopefully will get some from others, then go back, redo, THEN make a video.
See less See more
You need to watch what you post; tentative is irrelevant.

You've positioned yourself as an authority, an educator, "this is how to do it" - monkey see, monkey do.

Nobody will continue reading...they will do as you did at that posting point and many will follow the pics vs reading details. You HAVE to assume that.

Omitting information about ground fault safety equipment, yet excruciatingly showing a circuit breaker, and that leaning metal equipment on a ground lug as being good enough is Aramco gold watch material.

If you're going to assume knowledge authority and teach, you carry a responsibility to the ignorant.

You brush it off with excuses vs correcting the postings. An ambulance-chaser's wet dream of potentially deliberate negligence.

Fix it. You can do better. Earlier is better than later because the Internet has memory and propagates material.
See less See more
Is the Wifi connection, to the charger, password protected?

Asking for a drive-by pyro/hacker friend 😂

No, it?
  • Like
Reactions: 1
It's nice your doing this in the front of the house in the dining room, cuz your wifi reaches any car parked at the curb. Password didn't work...two "m" or three?

With that, I looked it up on OpenInverter:

Connecting to the Web interface
Depending on the version of your Olimex wifi dongle they are "open" or you need a password to connect.

By default you can connect to the network (Acces Point) and browse to:

By default all charger kits will have SSID : charger PASSWORD : charger123

Note: Its recommend that you change it. No body wants to drive and have some joker with a phone finding this information and accesing your charger

Sure enough, you were kidding around and the pw was the default, charger123.

Will wait til 3am before I turn your charger up to 11.
See less See more
1 - 20 of 151 Posts