[gregski]

One thing - an EVSE has (ground) fault detection, (some/all) has/have mains overcurrent detection as well. Going directly to a dryer plug does not.

So, for safety, use that EVSE "junk" 😂 or, at least, configure your plug so it can only plug into a ground fault protected circuit, which a dryer circuit is not (it can be if you replace your garage/house dryer breakers with GFCI breakers in your electric panel). You may not always be the one plugging the car in, even though you believe you will be.

Jacket all high voltage in orange for 1st responder & tech safety.

I concur, hence What charging port and harness do you recommend for the Tesla Model S Gen 2 Charger?

 

[remy_martian]

It's a tossup for me between J1772 and Tesla (North American), since I have both EVSE's in my garage.

As slow as my projects go (everything slid a year and a half after I taunted death with Covid last year) it's not clear that Tesla won't open up to using their charge stations by the time I'm on the road. There are adapters for both, so it's a cointoss, imo.

I like the Tesla connector's DC approach....there was no reason why J1772 could not have done DCFC on the two AC pins and beefed them up from the outset. Idiots.

This thread gave my enthusiasm the kick in the pants it needed...it's been a very slow recovery, physically & mentally. Thanks for that.

 

[gregski]

well it's out with the old PCB circus board...

 

[gregski]

but not before we harvest the 24 pin JTS connector made from Unobtainium using some precision Barbarian tactics

I strongly recommend using Poplar for this, lol

and an $800 dollar heat gun, that you'll only use once

 

[remy_martian]

Gals down at the bowling alley are gunna be all over you after you've styled your mullet with that there hair dryer

That connector should have come up nicely with braided solder wick.

 

[gregski]

so the new replacement Open Sauce printed circus board arrived, and as you can see it comes with a tiny red WiFi card, this allows us to Configure our settings using any web browser like Chrome or Internet Exploder, on our laptops, PCs, iPhones, iTablets what ever you get the idea

(unlike the Open Inverter Lexus GS450h VCU board, in my [shameless promotion] 1971 GMCe Lexus GS450H BMW 530e Tesla Model S powered Electruck [/shameless promotion] build thread, that one requires a USB cord connection)

 

[gregski]

mandatory stare and compare, now I aint no circuit board printing expert but the old card (top) is heavier and seems to be way more denserly populated with (what's the technical term I'm looking for?, ah yes) doodads, especially on it's [ahem] back side! than the new card (not top)

 

[gregski]

now in addition to the tiny red Olimex MOD-WIFI-ESP8266 WiFi card header connector (already attached) we need to glue on the two little black connectors, the larger one (top of pic) 30 Position Receptacle Samtec Connector IPS1-115-01-L-D I bought brand new as it is in stock and currently available, the shorter one (right of board) 24 Way JST Connector SM24B-CPTK-1A-TB(L) was "gently" persuaded off the old circuit board and awaits to be transplanted to the new one (wish me luck)

 

[remy_martian]

You should be ok on the hot air reflow. Fluxed solder paste on the pads (use the syringed kind) and get as much of the excess off the connector before you start.

 

[gregski]

meanwhile in our state of the art free-range Precision Facility...

 

[gregski]

things are about to get real

gentlemen I can't stress this enough, you must keep your tip clean

 

[remy_martian]

I need to get me one of those multidegree of FREEDOM ('murica!) clamps like you're using to hold that connector

Just the tip...only if it's clean and you promise 😂

Nice job getting the dross off those pins, on a serious note

 

[gregski]

Yes this next part is tedious, and I'm gonna make you suffer with me

 

[remy_martian]

Paste and hot air, dude

 

[gregski]

Paste and hot air, dude

Appreciate the advice and I even went out and watched a YouTube video or two on it but it wouldn't have worked for me because I am repurposing a used connector, meaning I jacked up all the little feets on it whilst liberating it off the old board, and it don't take much to make those little pins not align with those tiny little landing rectangles. I literally aligned each and every pin by using a dentist pick to make sure it was centered properly on the pad below it

Fun Level = 0

 

[gregski]

actual footage of me finally going to do this next part

 

[gregski]

so here we go, this process is tedious

 

[gregski]

I feel obligated to offer a Top Tip to save you some grief if you set out to do this on your own, first yes you can do it, just take your time, second be aware that this charger has three power modules. Why is that important? Because this 24 pin connector services all three modules so there is some redundancy in it. Say what?

I am not sure the breakdown below is 100% accurate but 24 divided by 3 is 8. So think of it this way.

pins 1-8 serves power module 1
pins 9-16 serves power module 2
pins 17-24 serves power module 3

so if you have an accidental solder bridge (pronounced: a friggen glob of solder causing a short across the pins) say on pins 2-3 it will also cause a short across pins 10-11 and 17-18 because they are all connected, don't ask me how I know!

 

[gregski]

I used this carbon fiber vegan wireless super clamp to help me hold down the circus board to the work surface to prevent it from skating across my desk, ha ha (use what ever you have at your disposal and don't let her know you're skierd)

 

[gregski]

thank god my iphone has a crappy camera and can't macro focus worth beans so you can't really tell how bad my soldering job really looks, ha ha

but yeah I used a Multimeter on the continuity setting to see if it will beep when I touch two adjacent pins and as I mentioned in the Top Tip above it had me chasing my tail for a while there cause I had one tiny hairline solder bridge between two pins that was causing six pins to beep, crazy I tell you

Project Phase Fun Level: -7