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I bought a Tesla Model S Gen 2 Charger - Now What?

19706 Views 150 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  grahammoore1
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Let me start off by saying how much I appreciate the folks on this Tesla 10Kw Open Source Charger Controller forum and the Tesla Charger Support Thread on the Open Inverter dot Org forum for doing all the heavy lifting for us to make this used Tesla Model S Gen 2 onboard charger a possibility in our EV Conversions.

I assume like most of you reading this, I have read the Gen2 Wiki, I have downloaded the Tesla Charger Evbmw Llogic Board Manual PDFs, I have watched their The Tesla Project : Charger 10kw Run YouTube videos. Having said that I firmly believe there is still a gap between those folks and those of us born without the Electrical Engineering set of chromosomes. That's where this thread comes in, help me document on the Duplo level what we will need to go from eBay order of one used charger to actually charging our converted vehicle using basic Level 1 SAE J1772 plug/connection (baby steps). I am happy to document it all (in pictures mind you), and buy all the bits and parts, I just need you to help me fill the gaps.

I hope to keep this thread wiring diagram free, ha ha, yes that's the level of simplicity I am striving for. OK, so here is what I know and here is what I got so far.

Assumptions: We will start off by doing this for the US, if we have input from across the pond I can add those updates too.
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and the 30 pin through hole style connector was next, this style/type is much much easier to mount/solder

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and that's good enuff for the girls we date!
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and here is finished Tesla Model S Gen 2 charger open source logic board

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then it was time to install the new PCB into the charger, fit like a glove

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one caveat, see how there is a screw missing in the pics above, that's because our new board does not have this spacer / riser like the OEM one did so I opted not to install a screw there at the risk of over tightening it and cracking the circuit board

below is a pic of the OEM board flipped over so you can see what I am talking about

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I like to bag and tag my charger bits, especially since when working on an EV Conversion you are going to have battery bits, controller bits, and current sensor bits, etc.

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Might want to find yourself an ESD bag for stuff like circuit boards. THEN bag the bag.

You can kill or damage parts like the microprocessors on circuit boards with the charge that ziplock bag can generate.
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Literally Nobody: "Hey how much does that Tesla Model S Gen 2 charger weigh?"

Me:

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You cheated and didn't fill it with coolant....

🤓
You cheated and didn't fill it with coolant....

🤓
indeed, add 7 ounces and round to 35 lbs (surprise you didn't notice the lid is missing it's screws)
here is how I wired the low voltage communication side

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Following the diagram above:

1. Connect your 12V+ to B1 (labeled 12V+) and A3 (labeled IN1).

2. Connect your 12V- to B7 (labeled GND) and to the charger's casing (chassis ground).

3. Later on I will connect the Proximity signal from your EVSE (Pronounced: charger cord plug) to B11

4. Later on I will connect the Control Pilot signal from your EVSE (Pronounced: charger cord plug) to B5
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So our mission was to send some power to that custom "after market" circuit board to see what happens

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some crimping required, now for those of you skierd of wiring or convinced you hate it, here is the first

Top Tip: treat yourself to a decent set of automagic wire strippers, don't use those stupid strippers like the ones below that you have to pull on, yes uncle Ned can strip some 9 Gauge solid copper house wires with them in a 30 second video but those don't work for me and they may not work for you, also if you go out and buy a set, that set may not work for you either, that's ok, you will find a set that you love, allow yourself to fail, allow yourself to learn

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my strippers below are OK but they are 17 times better than the yellow ones above

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I think someone in one of my other threads / posts pointed out we do not have to take that front white piece all the way out, well I tried with it partially in and I can't tell if the terminal twisted is in there sideways or upside down, so I just pop these out and shove my eye balls in there

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this is the smaller of the two plugs it is the one A Plug on the left, and here we shove the red positive wire up it's butt in slot #3 (the holes on the back of this plug are actually numbered with tiny tiny numbers to help you out)

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the plug below came with my charger when I bought it and it already had that yellow wire in it so I just left it, I have no idea what it does

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Looks like I shoved two black ground wires in the #7 hole on the B plug next

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and then I took the red wire from the A Plug and added another longer red wire to it and shoved both into hole #1 on the B Plug

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and here is what our red Positive and black Negative (ground) wire connections look like

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next I crimped a loop on the short black wire off of the B connector and simply ran it to the closest charger mounting hole to act as a chassis ground

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I like to add a fuse on the positive red wire as close to the power source (aka battery in this case) as possible to protect our electronics

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and I use the smallest fuse I can get away with (2 amps in this case), usually these little gizmos don't need that many volts, we are not talking about spinning our electric motor here, we are powering up a tiny microcontroller and blinking some LEDs folks, if you use a small fuse and it blows, that's ok bump up to a larger one until it doesn't pop any more

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and I like to add an OFF and ON switch on the black negative (aka ground) wire also close to the power source (aka the battery) and there's our little "power" harness for the Tesla Model S Gen 2 battery charger

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