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Discussion Starter · #101 · (Edited)
that's why we need some fuses to protect the battery pack, and I got lucky and found this triple Bussmann 30 amp 600 volt fuse holder with a cover on eBay

Part Number: BMC603-xP

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the screw down connectors are a big reason why I chose this fuse block, I did not want these leads coming off

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Discussion Starter · #102 · (Edited)
we need to remind ourselves that a 15 amp circuit breaker does not break at 15 amps, that's not how it's designed to work, it is designed to work at 80% efficiency so it breaks at only 12 amps

15 amps x 80% = 12 amps

so for my implementation I choose to run three 20 amp fuses so that they will fuse at 16 amps (more on this later... maybe)


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I am only fusing the positive wires, the black negative wires will just run along side of this fuse box to an Anderson connector

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
love how the DC side is turning out, almost looks semi pro

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still waiting on my hydraulic crimper tool thingie before I snap those Anderson PowerPoles in to that plastic red rectangle

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It's a bit misleading, what you're "teaching" here on the AC side.

In the US, we use a split phase, earth referenced, power system to homes.

That Tesla charger is NOT connected directly to the service panel breaker as you say, and as you have your corded connection now going to a non-GFCI, indoors range/dryer plug (yikes!). With the weight of the charger making your ground connection 😬

There's an EVSE in between the charger and plug that limits the charger current draw and that detects ground faults. You have none of that.

Charge your car in the rain on a dryer circuit without an EVSE, be the earth connection, and you're dead. You fail to mention the EVSE and a GFCI being mandatory to run this box in a garage or damp/wet place. You fail to mention that the charger needs to be set to pull maximum current of 8A in the absence of an EVSE, yet has to be on a GFCI circuit, not an ordinary breaker. Code also requires, iirc, vehicle charger plugs to be dedicated circuits for vehicle charging, not shared with your wife's clothes dryer.

In fact, you've gone to lengths to fuse (I assume that's the block you have on the DC side, though you infer with the prior post that you put an AC breaker there) the output, but have done nothing to keep from toasting the plug/socket on the input side, or from frying yourself by failing to put the charger on a GFCI circuit.

I may come across as nitpicking or as a curmudgeon (at my age, both expected and a right), but you are putting yourself on the high horse of teaching and being knowledgeable in the eyes of everyone tiring of $4/gallon gas prices(which is why the high influx of new members) yet the things you are showing, omitting, and teaching are very dangerous, can kill someone, and expose yourself to a huge lawsuit if someone or something gets cooked.

No harm in running things up the flagpole here for feedback, though. What you're doing is good stuff, but it also is very naive and possibly negligent in some areas. You have my feedback, hopefully will get some from others, then go back, redo, THEN make a video.
 

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You need to watch what you post; tentative is irrelevant.

You've positioned yourself as an authority, an educator, "this is how to do it" - monkey see, monkey do.

Nobody will continue reading...they will do as you did at that posting point and many will follow the pics vs reading details. You HAVE to assume that.

Omitting information about ground fault safety equipment, yet excruciatingly showing a circuit breaker, and that leaning metal equipment on a ground lug as being good enough is Aramco gold watch material.

If you're going to assume knowledge authority and teach, you carry a responsibility to the ignorant.

You brush it off with excuses vs correcting the postings. An ambulance-chaser's wet dream of potentially deliberate negligence.

Fix it. You can do better. Earlier is better than later because the Internet has memory and propagates material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Ah Yeah! The Crimpulator 3000 is here! not bad for $32 bones on AMAZON

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
so finally I can complete my DC test wire harness

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wish I had some red heat shrink tubing but oh well, good enuff for the girls I date!

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
and then it was on to the positive side of this test DC wire harness

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
then it was time to turn up the heat, still relying solely on only yellow tools, ha ha

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
I couldn't be happier with the way this has turned out, and the Anderson SB120 series should be able to handle the 45 amps max flowing through these no problem

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Fun Fact about the Anderson connectors, the SB series comes in different sizes SB50, SB120, SB175, and SB350 (and different colors) but what is cool is that within each series, take my SB120 for example you can swap out for different PowerPoles (those metal connector insert thingies) ranging from 1 to 6 AWG "gauge"

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Discussion Starter · #118 · (Edited)
and here I'm trying 120 volt charging using all three power modules

YES, the wife INSISTED I do this in the comfort of our fine dinning room, so who was I to refuse her wishes

The car battery provides 12 volt power to the chargers logic circuit board

The laptop talks to the chargers logic circuit board using WiFi and can be used to configure the charger and to show how the charging is going, state of charge etc.

Difficult to see but I am using a Kill A Watt (white thing plugged in to the black power strip coming out of the wall) to monitor AC (volts, amps, watts) going into the charger, this is optional, and the laptop shows the same stuff, I just have trust issues.

On the table I have a Fluke like clamp meter that I mount around one of the high voltage power leads to show me the amount of current flowing into the battery pack

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red tiny circuit board with the red LED on is the WiFi card which is used to communicate with my laptop to configure the charger and to monitor it

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if I had to do it all over again I would put a switch on the red wire going to the plug on the left, that is how we START or initiate the charging so at the moment when troubleshooting I have to unplug that black plug and plug it back in, it's a bit of a P.I.A.

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Discussion Starter · #120 · (Edited)
so I want to revisit the Web Interface for this charger and share with you how I got it to work, and what I think some of the Parameter settings do


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