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It looks like he has made all his arduino code available, plus pinouts and links to the wiring diagram, so anybody with basic electronics knowledge and skills should be able to follow his lead and do it also.

Depending upon your experience level, you might be better off to buy a used, working Leaf and just drive it. Then if you feel like EV tinkering, buy another cheap working Leaf and use it for a conversion. You will have one working to help decode the CAN commands and all the system.

The biggest problem to me is that the Leaf cells have no thermal management and seem to lose capacity faster than any other OEM cells. They may be cheap and plentiful, but not much value if they are worn out and have limited useful life left. It's a lot of work and you will have to become an expert at arduino programming and CAN buss commands and protocol.

Make or Buy, Work or Drive? those are some EV questions to decide for your situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your thoughts @kennybobby.

All the 8 to 10-year old examples I can find are showing 90% - 100% charge on the dash. Can this be misleading given the lack of thermal management? Do any Leaf owners add thermal cut-offs?

I’m looking to convert an old Land Rover. I don’t actually want a Leaf sitting on my drive for any longer than needed - damn those cars are ugly!
 

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Re: Reading Leaf gauges

The dash has 2 gauges to show battery parameters. The inner "fuel" gauge will most likely always show full or close to full with 12 led bars lit after charging. This is a State of Charge indicator that drops as you drive the car. This tells you how full is the "tank" or glass.

But there is a thin outer band next to it that indicates remaining capacity; this gauge is very slow to move and it always goes down, never up. It is intended to give you an indication of the Gradual Capacity Loss of the pack. This tells you how big is the tank or glass; it gets smaller as the cells wear out and lose the ability to store charge. So at 6 bars it is at half capacity, so from 24kWh when new down to 12.

Unfortunately dishonest people have figured out that it can be reset using CAN buss tools to temporarily give a false reading to make a sale. So if you find an old car with 11 or 12 bars on the GCL then it may have been reset and you would want to drive the car from full to close to empty and see what your actual range is--that cannot be reset.

ps. they are kinda butt ugly, but nice interior and heated steering wheel and seats--and you don't have to look at it while driving.
 

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