Could you roll some aluminium plate to make a cylinerd, maybe two to create a water jacket for cooling? I have briefly considered what you are proposing but never took it anywhere so I will be interested to see the responses.
Sounds like a good start. Is it possible to retrospectively cool an AC motor with a rebuilt case? How effective would it be? Does a liquid cooled motor actually just use the cooling just for the casing?composite is too hard to work with and $$$$$$$$$$
just cnc some aluminium end frames.
That what Ive got planned for my AC90
Thats a significant difference in weights and seems to encourage the 'lightening' of a typical industrial motor if it can be done cost effectively! Looks like some space saving there too.Hi. My 25HP Marathon Electric AC motor weighs <175 lbs. That's because the only "heavy" parts of the enclosure are the two ends; face mount and the back. The body of the motor is made out of rolled steel. The base is bent steel welded to that. There are 4 bolts that run the length of the motor to pull in both ends. A typical 25 HP ACIM can be upwards of 550 lbs.
Here's a pic:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6594&d=1272405647
JR
Hi, my 15.5 kW alu ABB dahlander is in total ca. 120 kg. However, I would say that the end bells of that motor (I removed one last friday) are not very heavy (maybe 1-2 kg, not sure). I think main weight is the stator package (the copper and the iron) and the rotor. Housing, fan and end bells seem to be a small part.One aluminum housed motor I've been drooling over has a 120Lb stator, 80lb rotor, the cast iron end bells, encoder housing, fan etc weighs 80lbs.
I helped a friend build a long easy. Extremely strong and light airframe. I've handled some graphite body parts and they seem stronger and lighter than aluminum. The F-15 strike eagle had graphite composite wings. I toured the shop where they were autoclaved back in the '80s.composite is too hard to work with and $$$$$$$$$$
just cnc some aluminium end frames.
That what Ive got planned for my AC90
That is about as minimal as it gets. Is that motor rated at 3,450 or 1,760 RPM. I'd think the faster motor would be better, especially if I was using one of the new power-glides I've seen on here. Looks like a C-face motor which would simplify making an adapter.Hi. My 25HP Marathon Electric AC motor weighs <175 lbs. That's because the only "heavy" parts of the enclosure are the two ends; face mount and the back. The body of the motor is made out of rolled steel. The base is bent steel welded to that. There are 4 bolts that run the length of the motor to pull in both ends. A typical 25 HP ACIM can be upwards of 550 lbs.
Here's a pic:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6594&d=1272405647
JR
Is that motor rated at 3,450 or 1,760 RPM. I'd think the faster motor would be better, especially if I was using one of the new power-glides I've seen on here. Looks like a C-face motor which would simplify making an adapter.
Is it going in a rear wheel or front wheel drive car? The power glide transmission has a 1.86:1 low gear in it so if you are using a 2-pole motor the transmission makes up for the halving of available motor torque. If I was going with direct drive to a conventional rear axle I'd want the 4-pole motor. With a four pole one can re-wire them internally so that rated voltage is 125 VAC. Of course rated current with that mod doubles.It's a ~3600 RPM. I thought about having a motor with it's rated speed closer to what the ICE peak power RPM was and picked this motor based on that. The downside is that it's a 2 pole motor and pound for pound (no pun intended) those have less torque than 4 pole counterparts. However, this particular motor peaks at 110 lb-ft of torque which is close to what I get from the ICE. This motor has both C-face and foot mounts and I would use both to keep the instant torque clamped down. The motor is also inverter rated (ie: handles hard switching) and a "safe" rating to 5400 RPM. Too bad the darn thing is too long to easily fit my car. I'll try though....
JR
Front drive, unfortunately, and the motor is too long as it is to fit comfortably. I might be able to work it in if I remove the back fan cover... but then I'd need to find a solution for that. Don't know, but I'll try when the time comes since I already have the motor.Is it going in a rear wheel or front wheel drive car?
I'm not sure this will affect motors in EV application the same way that it would a 24/7 pump or fan. But if it does, and thanks for the pointer, this device says it'll cure it for about $35: http://www.mercotac.com/There is 1 really NOT SO GOOD thing about inverter drive motors.
At work we have a 100 Hp pump motor on an inverter. I has placards on the end bells indicating that the bearings are insulated. I notice that it also has a Goodyear rubber flex coupling on it. They must have had a bearing problem there in years gone by. In theory the flex coupling would not be needed if both bearings were insulated because current needs a complete path, through two bearings somewhere in this case.JR
Love your slip rings.
Allows use of steel bearings to take torque shocks when wheel spin stops suddenly on solid pavement. Hydroplanning, or winter, sand, leaves.
Piece of cake. Much more reliable. Also any airflow thru the motor WILL NOT LIFT it off of the shaft. The braid could be lifted off at maximum rpms.
Still need 1 at each end, as I do not know if 1 brush will draw most of the current away. Only a oscilloscope check would prove that.
Insulated bearings do or do not create a problem if the current has no low resistance path back to the controller ?
Some motors can have a holding current flowing while the motor is stopped. That also causes etching.........How much ?????