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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Introducing myself and project.


I'm new to EV conversions, but have build several NHRA drag cars and muscle cars. My reason for doing a EV conversion are non topical but I'm primary trying to do something different. My goal is not to make a daily driver, but more in line with a senor citizen's hopped up golf cart (retirement is just around the corner) I have a 58 AH Sprite and picked up a running Taylor Dunn E-451 industrial tow vehicle. Installing the rearend/motor combination and wiring the controller should be very straight forward.


My big concern is getting more speed out of the vehicle. The tow vehicle is equipped with a narrowed up 9 inch Ford with 5.43 gears, 3:1 chain drive and 12" tires. It will tow 10,000lb at 6mph on 24vdc. The AH weighs less than 1500lb. I can easily change the gearing to 2.47 and will be moving up to 24" tires so that "In Theory" will get me to 26mph. Both the motor and controller are rated to 36v so I should pick up some more speed by switching to 36v(?).


So here is the big question can the series wound GE 5BC49JB399C motor which is 7" diameter providing enough torque to meet my speed goal in a 1500lb car. Motor's tag shows multiple ratings but 10hp 36v 2900rpm are the max number.


What is the safe max rpm for this type of motor if I were to update the controller.


Thanks in advance and feel free to correct me on any misconceptions about EV conversions..
 

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What is your top speed goal?

Do you care about acceleration, if so what is your rate, e.g. 0-30 in xx seconds, etc?

What is the last line on the label--does it read time rating? That would be operating time in minutes at the full power?

The winding diagram would be good to see also.

in the 10hp config it makes about 38 ft-lbs, in the other two configs about 6 ft-lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not too concerned about acceleration. Ramp up is fixed in the factory speed controller. It currently goes 0-6 in about 5 seconds empty or loaded. Since the gearing has increase 4 fold under no load it should go 0-26 in the same 5 sec(?). I’ll assume it does not have enough torque for that, but 0-26 in 15 sec. would be nice. I figured once I get it running, I could move on to upgrades.
 

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i don't know if the motor has different wiring schemes shown on it's label, but whatever the center configuration is with 3.5 hp, 2900 rpm, 36V, 95 amps rated to run for 30 minutes, makes 6 ft-lbs at those conditions. With the right gear ratio you could probably make it work.

A 1500 lb vehicle required 2.5 hp to travel at 30 mph with aero Cd=0.34, frontal area 20 sqft., tire Crr=0.01. The aero and rolling loads are about equal at that speed.
 

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You do know you can build a sweet freeway worthy AH Sprite that will kick the pants off many on the road and have a decent range at freeway speeds and still drive it like a golf cart when you want and when you realize you want more you then remember you do have more and no need to rebuild later. Just turn down the throttle while driving on the golf course and full out when you get off the course. Seems odd to take a nice car and make it into a golf cart.

Below is my 77 MG Midget. 9" Warp Impulse Motor with Synkromotive Controller and 120 volt system lithium batteries. Was sold to a gentleman in Colorado who still drives it as an all electric vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies. I picked up the E451 for $53 so pIan to start out on a small budget and get it running and driving first. The nice thing about the Ford 9” is that not only is it easy to change gear ratios, just about every ratio you can think of is readily available.

I’m sure I’ll make upgrades down the road, but I’ll be replacing parts I already have. Not buying a lot of parts only to replace them later.
 

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I'm with Onegreen on this

Stick a forklift motor a P&S controller and most of a Chevy Volt battery in that sucker

I've got an 11 inch motor - a 9 inch motor would probably be better

My Club fined me a dollar at our last drag meet - apparently there is a rule about beating ALL the V8's
 

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