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I'm looking for the correct SR for asking for help in picking parts, since I have a donor car that just had a motor die on it.

If this is the right place, here's what I'm up against:

My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L engine just died last week, and I was looking for a replacement engine, it costs 1,600$ from junk yards local to me, or 1,200$ from ebay. Problem I find with local options is that it's going to cost a lot of time, and I'm at the moment unable to maneuver a V8 of that size to do the work on my own, and it's time consuming for such a large engine if I hurt myself, since time off work will cost much more than the vehicle is worth. I have plenty of other vehicles for daily driving, this Jeep is only driven maybe 3 times a year, and off road. It's really useless.

So my thought with my drives to Mexico every year is that I use the Jeep as a glorified covered Trailer, but with a proposed fancy feature; It could be DRIVEN to be parked on my driveway. There's laws in place to prevent people parking trailers, and having a trailer hidden as a Jeep seems like a great way to bypass this law, and make it rather easy to have an electric motor help it park.

I'm living in the San Antonio TX area, and i've already started stripping out the engine as I will be using this as a flat towed vehicle to Mexico then to Panama. I will be using it as a nice fancy sleeping cabin for my kids when on a property I trust, and maybe use it for charging phones, the purpose I don't think is too important.

My problem: What AC motor could I use that's good enough to move the Jeep. Speed isn't the issue, it's for either driving around the block, or to park it into the driveway with powered systems. Also, I'd like to try and future proof it by having it have a range of maybe half a block to start with, and upgrade by just adding more batteries in parallel. I honestly will never drive it, and will just used the motor to help the car parallel park if I'm driving the car to some foreign city, or to park it up a small hill in Panama to store it on a property where my truck can't navigate (serious problem I don't want to get rid of). I'd LOVE to somehow attach a tesla motor to the 4x4 transfer case, and grab the smallest capacity battery that can power it, and get the electronics for it. I'd love to keep it inexpensive, so that I can get the motor, pedal, and motor controller for as low as possible. If the cost of a tesla motor + accessories to make the motor spin forward or backward is too high, then something that can handle tesla batteries so that I can purchase some cells from ebay, and attach as needed in the future. I'm not needing this trailer to move fast, if it's slow and steady, I could do that as well, this is a future proof project that if it turns into a full fledged offroad EV, I could do it in 5 ~ 10 years when batteries get cheaper or better chemistry is invented/discovered.

Throw some ideas, try to keep them under $2k for the motor, controller, pedal. No I'm not worried about steering being a problem, I can buy a hydraulic pump that can be powered by a deep cycle 12V battery, it's not an issue for the next decade. 9apps apk cartoon hd app
 

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I'm looking for the correct SR for asking for help in picking parts,
You seem confused about terms.

A "subreddit" refers only to a community on the website Reddit.com.

This is discussion forum, part of DIYElectriCar.com. There are a couple dozen forums here, mostly to keep conversation grouped in the right way.

To answer what I think your question is... is this community, which is called "DIY Electric Car" an acceptable place to ask about DIYing and Electric Vehicles, then... yes. That's exactly what it is.

Speed isn't the issue, it's for either driving around the block, or to park it into the driveway with powered systems. Also, I'd like to try and future proof it by having it have a range of maybe half a block to start with, and upgrade by just adding more batteries in parallel.[...] I honestly will never drive it, and will just used the motor to help the car parallel park
Okay, this is an easy one. Don't change anything yet.

There is no way that this is worth the $2k you plan on spending on it, just to basically have someone help push.

I suggest you leave everything the way it is, and use the starter motor to drive the vehicle.

Normally you cannot put a vehicle in gear when starting, because of a "Neutral Safety Switch", not sure if that's only on autos or if it applies to manuals as well, but you can electrically bypass that (it's a couple wires).

Then you can drive it by literally turning the key forward like you were starting the car, just, while also in gear.

A starter isn't designed for this, but at super low speeds, a few times a year, it should be fine.

A starter battery is probably sufficient for this, though it's not going to appreciate the engine using it as an air brake. You could always throw in another starter battery.

A more advanced version would be to remove the engine and fabricate a way to mount the starter to the transmission, but... unless you need the weight or the engine is seized... it's hardly worth the effort or fabrication. You might want to strip out all the guts of the engine, I'm not a car guy but, I imagine both the top and bottom end aren't needed. Just the flywheel and its bearings.

You could replace the ignition with a red button that fires the starter solenoid instead, or a $1 foot pedal switch under the gas pedal. Then it might be a bit less awkward to drive without holding the key.

Before you decide, you could just hotwire the starter (or disable the neutral safety switch) on an empty bit of road and see how it does.

I'm all for you building an EV, but, you don't need an AC motor (let alone a tesla motor), a fancy controller, a lithium battery pack, etc. So, that's what I'd do.
 

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I'm looking for the correct SR for asking for help in picking parts, since I have a donor car that just had a motor die on it.

If this is the right place...
This "Technical Discussion" section of the forum is usually for more specific technical issues, rather than the selection of all components for a conversion project.

My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L engine just died last week, and I was looking for a replacement engine, it costs 1,600$ from junk yards local to me, or 1,200$ from ebay. Problem I find with local options is that it's going to cost a lot of time, and I'm at the moment unable to maneuver a V8 of that size to do the work on my own, and it's time consuming for such a large engine if I hurt myself, since time off work will cost much more than the vehicle is worth.
I doubt that any EV conversion has ever been cheaper, or easier, or faster than a mechanical repair or even an engine swap (to the cheapest possible engine in this case).

So my thought with my drives to Mexico every year is that I use the Jeep as a glorified covered Trailer, but with a proposed fancy feature; It could be DRIVEN to be parked on my driveway. There's laws in place to prevent people parking trailers, and having a trailer hidden as a Jeep seems like a great way to bypass this law, and make it rather easy to have an electric motor help it park.

I'm living in the San Antonio TX area, and i've already started stripping out the engine as I will be using this as a flat towed vehicle to Mexico then to Panama. I will be using it as a nice fancy sleeping cabin for my kids when on a property I trust, and maybe use it for charging phones, the purpose I don't think is too important.
Why not sell the Jeep and buy something which would suit this purpose much better, such as a van?

My problem: What AC motor could I use that's good enough to move the Jeep. Speed isn't the issue, it's for either driving around the block, or to park it into the driveway with powered systems. Also, I'd like to try and future proof it by having it have a range of maybe half a block to start with, and upgrade by just adding more batteries in parallel. I honestly will never drive it, and will just used the motor to help the car parallel park if I'm driving the car to some foreign city, or to park it up a small hill in Panama to store it on a property where my truck can't navigate (serious problem I don't want to get rid of). I'd LOVE to somehow attach a tesla motor to the 4x4 transfer case, and grab the smallest capacity battery that can power it, and get the electronics for it. I'd love to keep it inexpensive, so that I can get the motor, pedal, and motor controller for as low as possible. If the cost of a tesla motor + accessories to make the motor spin forward or backward is too high, then something that can handle tesla batteries so that I can purchase some cells from ebay, and attach as needed in the future. I'm not needing this trailer to move fast, if it's slow and steady, I could do that as well, this is a future proof project that if it turns into a full fledged offroad EV, I could do it in 5 ~ 10 years when batteries get cheaper or better chemistry is invented/discovered.

Throw some ideas, try to keep them under $2k for the motor, controller, pedal. No I'm not worried about steering being a problem, I can buy a hydraulic pump that can be powered by a deep cycle 12V battery, it's not an issue for the next decade.
Given the budget and the requirements, any Tesla motor or drive unit (motor plus transaxle) is unsuitable, because it is too expensive, too much trouble to work with, and far more powerful than required. Rather than paying today's prices and using today's technology to make a basis for something that might be built in five to ten years, why not make something which works now, and replace it with something much better in the future, using the parts which make sense then?

If you really want to do what you say you are trying to do, and have it more functional than Matt's temporary workarounds, you could remove the engine and transmission, install a salvaged brushed DC motor from a forklift where the transmission was, stack some lead-acid batteries under the hood, and build a motor controller from a kit or plans. You can leave the transfer case to give you a low gear and disconnect the front shaft so it can turn on dry pavement, or just remove the transfer case and leave it rear-wheel-drive. Your budget will still not be enough.
 

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That's definitely something I will consider for my Honda Fit when it dies. Give it to one of my kids to take to school and back when they are old enough. This is great, but I don't think it will work for the Jeep, as I really want to keep it super simple, and really I don't need this Jeep to go over 5mph. It will only be used for parking or aligning to attach to the truck for flat towing. Also, the conversion to these hub motors would require changing out the all the hubs to 4 lug from the 5 lug system in place. Also worried about the weight of the jeep on those hubs, since all the example applications show mopeds, small ATVs, and some trikes.
 

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That's definitely something I will consider for my Honda Fit when it dies. Give it to one of my kids to take to school and back when they are old enough. This is great, but I don't think it will work for the Jeep, as I really want to keep it super simple, and really I don't need this Jeep to go over 5mph. It will only be used for parking or aligning to attach to the truck for flat towing. Also, the conversion to these hub motors would require changing out the all the hubs to 4 lug from the 5 lug system in place. Also worried about the weight of the jeep on those hubs, since all the example applications show mopeds, small ATVs, and some trikes.
Is this the thread that you intended to reply to? No one is discussing hub motors in this thread.
 

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Also, notice that the OP of this thread has edited their post, and now includes two spam links.

I don't believe this was a bot-run repost of a thread, so it looks like this guy's account got hacked, probably by using a popular password. Editing months-old posts to add spam links, on a thread no one will notice, but will increase your SEO, has been a spammer tactic for like, 15 years. Dunno what to do about it, lock the account, purge the posts, etc?
 

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Also, notice that the OP of this thread has edited their post, and now includes two spam links.
That's what threw me - it looked like spam, but had no links.

The original post now has a spam link on the end, so that account (mileys1990) either is not legitimate or (more likely) has been hacked.

I don't believe this was a bot-run repost of a thread, so it looks like this guy's account got hacked, probably by using a popular password. Editing months-old posts to add spam links, on a thread no one will notice, but will increase your SEO, has been a spammer tactic for like, 15 years. Dunno what to do about it, lock the account, purge the posts, etc?
The account only has one post, and has issues, so it doesn't look legitimate to me.

A common occurrence in this forum (which I haven't seen in the other forums that I follow) is a post which copies an earlier post (to appear to be on-topic) but only a fragment (to avoid being really obvious), not as a quote. That's not the case here (the post text does not occur in earlier posts of the same thread), but the response is phrased as if it is from the original poster despite being from a new account, and part about hub motors is completely irrelevant to this thread, so it doesn't look like a real response.
 
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