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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After over 3 years of almost daily driving, I'm at another major repair or replace decision for our 1989 Jeep YJ conversion. (Some here might have seen it as the "Cheap Jeep" episode of Rich Rebuilds.) Anyway, we overheated terminal stud A1 while driving up a jeep trail through the woods like we had 100 times before; we smelled smoke and stopped and had a small fire that burnt the terminal cover and some rubber insulation for a few minutes before going out on its own (right before I was about to try to desparately smother it with ferns!) Now this terminal stud had trouble before when I had a loose connection and melted it, but I had put on a extension nut and made it work and we've been running it with no problem for about 3 years since that episode. Anyway, I'm looking at trying to fix it again - or just replace the whole thing with a Warp 9. So I have all sorts of questions (as usual,) but I'd be happy to hear thoughts on the following at least:
1. Has anyone else experienced this type of failure? If so what did you do to repair or replace?
2. Is the Warp 9 going to match the same adapter plate holes? And should we be able to use the same clutchless coupler that is part of the old EVA chevy S10 conversion kits?
3. The parts diagram of the FB1-4001a shows a brush and lead assembly kit FAO-2034AS. The wiring attached at the A1 stud looks frayed and overheated. I think I might need to replace this and the insulator and rubber washer and stud where it passed through the commutator end cap. Anyone have any idea where I might find these parts and how difficult this might be to replace?

However we get this running again I'm going to be sure to wire up the motor's temperature sensor to an alarm next time!
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Wow, something Rich worked on that lasted more than few months? I'm amazed.
It's not very pretty, but if there is enough room inside the motor and the overheated leads are alright, you could just attach your cable lug directly to the damaged stud without it going through the housing. Or use an inline splicer: Burndy BISR1/0 Splicer Reducers | Crescent Electric Supply Company
Keeping stuff separated and insulated could be a challenge. But hey, its partly a Rich project, right? Challenges are just another opportunity to screw things up and whine about it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow, something Rich worked on that lasted more than few months? I'm amazed.
It's not very pretty, but if there is enough room inside the motor and the overheated leads are alright, you could just attach your cable lug directly to the damaged stud without it going through the housing. Or use an inline splicer: Burndy BISR1/0 Splicer Reducers | Crescent Electric Supply Company
Keeping stuff separated and insulated could be a challenge. But hey, its partly a Rich project, right? Challenges are just another opportunity to screw things up and whine about it!
Rich never worked on it. Just the guys at Electrified Garage in NH, and they were just trying to help me out after I'd had the Jeep driving for a couple years and had already had many challenges (to put it nicely.) So the fault is all mine. Anyway, I'm not certain the brush lead is ok really. The copper wire of the lead looks cooked and frayed and is making me nervous. If I keep this motor, I'd like to replace the brush lead assembly ... if I can find one.
 
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