[David Arthur]

Hi Everybody I bought a used KDHE 120v 800amp ? as above controller on Ebay, i then bench set it up on 36 volts, and it all worked fine. 2 years later i get to fit on my bike, and using the same wiring, and it does not work? A few pointers, the controller starts up green, but when i open the throttle it goes to red flashing, 2 then 3 = low voltage pack, but after 20 secs goes back to green. Battery is good, at 70v so i tried changing the software voltage min setting down to 24v min, still no change, but it still resets after 20 secs back to green. So it would appear from the fault codes, that the pack is definitely low, BUT IT IS NOT. The only difference i can see from when i originally bench tested the unit, is i had a 36v battery pack and a 36v supply to the main 36v forklift contactor relay. Now i have a 72v pack, but now with a separate 12v auxiliary battery and a 12v Tyco relay with an economizer. If i connect a separate 12v feed to the tyco it pulls in immediately with a loud click, but when in circuit as before, it does not pull in when the ignition is turned on. So from what i can tell, the controller can see 70v on startup, despite the relay not pulling in, as it gets a reading from the pre charge resistor, so when i open the throttle, the voltage drops, and then faults, but after 20 seconds resets green, so the battery is good, and the controller is good. What i want to know is, am i right ?, i am very poor on electronics, and spend ages on a simple schematic, one in ignorance, and two, trying to ensure it doesn't end up in smoke. I am sure i read somewhere in a Curtis manual not to use economizers, is this the problem, and again in ignorance, in an attempt to get it to work, i disconnected the original relay diode (after switching off) in case the tyco already had one, in case it was interfering with the economizer, but on turning on the ignition again, it was still the same, so i reconnected the diode back in circuit before switching off again, just in case. I was tempted to put a jumper across the relay, to see if it worked, and just to see the wheel spin, and confirm my own diagnosis, but held back, just in case i have got it all wrong. Finally if anyone can help put me right, that would be great, but if i am right about the economizer being the culprit, can i just remove the small PCB on the side, and just solder up, or can anybody suggest an alternative, if that's not the case Thanks in advance. yours Dave

 

[Functional Artist]

Since you first bench tested it @ 36V
...you may need to "go in" & reprogram/reset it to the parameters of the "pack" that your now, working with.
...or go to the source & ask Fany @ Kelly Controls

Here is Fany's E-Mail address
[email protected]

 

[David Arthur]

Hi Functional Artist, Thanks for the info, just to confirm, i did say in my earlier post, i changed the software parameters in the battery voltage down to 24v, but its easily missed, and i will contact Kelly for an update, and will post here for reference. I have also been mulling more over the Tyco contactor, as the original 36v unit i used when testing was from a 1960s forklift, and i never considered orientation ie Pos Neg when wiring it up, is it possible i have just connected the Tyco the wrong way round ?, as having electronics inside, it now seems i was a bit silly, just sticking it in a circuit, not recognizing a possible orientation, which further shows my ignorance, again easy to resolve, or have i now possibly damaged the unit, really looking forward to any help, and having a test run after all this time, but don't want to blow the unit at the last hurdle. Yours Dave

 

[David Arthur]

Hi Whilst waiting for help and advice, i have sourced another 12v coil, this again works fine on my 12v auxiliary battery on the bike, but this also WON'T work in the circuit, so this morning i eventually plucked up the courage to put a jumper across the terminals, with a 5amp fuse, and as i suspected it runs, obviously off the floor unloaded, but the throttle works fine, and although at very low revs, otherwise fuse would pop, but it shows the pack is ok and controller is to i hope. I am totally out of my depth electronics wise, but worst case scenario before having to send in for repair, can i bypass the controllers logic circuit, by missing out the contactor in the original circuit, and just wiring via an auxiliary 12v switch operated on the handlebars. I have now contacted Kelly with this latest information, but being based in the UK it may be impractical, to ship Stateside for repair if worst case, are their any UK based repair shops for these units, or would i be better off biting the bullet, and buying a Curtis unit who do have a UK presence. Thanks in advance. yours Dave

 

[_GonZo_]

it goes to red flashing, 2 then 3

This code is for Controller over temperature, not low voltage.

 

[David Arthur]

Hi Gonzo Sorry about that, i had been so addled yesterday, checking everything trying to ensure no mistakes, but yes when writing it down later, yes it is 1 flashing red and then 3, not as i stated earlier. Update after putting a low fused jumper across the contactor, to emulate it pulling in (in circuit) i have now disconnected the coil, and set it up as a separate stand alone unit, working via just the 12v auxiliary battery and a handlebar switch, Always ensuring that i connect the pack voltage to the controller first before i switch on. The way i do this is i have a large emergency stop button, located at foot level on my motorcycle, which was a belt and braces exercise, if all else failed, but it has now come in for further use. Anyway glad to say it now seems to be working fine, but only on the stand, as i have still not managed to traverse under my own steam, as i now need to mount a further battery onto the bike, and hope that will be completed by tomorrow. I would still be happier if i could resolve why it does not work as per my wiring, and if anybody has any ideas, much appreciated. All the best Dave