One note, at idle with the trans in park, it's pulling about 2.5 or so KW driving the tranny input shaft and alternator only. In drive but stopped it jumps to around 3kw.
If I understand this correctly, you replaced a manual transmission with an obsolete automatic transmission. If this is true, the wasted energy is not surprising.I had a DC9 that averaged about 400w/mile on a 165V Calb 200ah battery pack. Ran it around 2500rpm or higher on average to keep it cool. Never ran hot, no blower. Finally blew it, my fault, great motor with good torque. After replacing the armature and blowing it again, I went with the Kostov.
Decided to convert it to auto at the same time, reinstalled the alternator and connected the AC back. Now after maybe 500 miles I'm averaging 6-700 watts.
It's a racing transmission. I bought it because of the expected asphalt ripping torque I was going to have with a 1000A controller... 🙄If I understand this correctly, you replaced a manual transmission with an obsolete automatic transmission. If this is true, the wasted energy is not surprising.
Okay... but it still has a torque converter. If it doesn't have a torque converter lock-up clutch it's obsolete (and more importantly inefficient), no matter how rugged it might be.It's a racing transmission.
Hey guy, thanks for the post. Didn't know if you were still around. Well I'm an electrician and studies motors, generators etc and would love for you to help me figure out a solution. Reconfiguring it to parallel field seemed to help it and haven't noticed a reduction in performance. So 3 questions.Well, 165 v is kinda bit low for a kostov, in my case that is the low voltage cutoff and when it's there it is a current pig. I run 196, should go to 250 but that's another story. Interpoles are counter wound coils that reduce back emf which leads to zorching the commutation at voltages above 150v
Two comments, your idle load seems excessive and at 30 mph youre making 13 ish hp which is twice what im seeing in my ranger but not that excessive when running a slush box. It is consistant with adding the higher idle load. The other comment is that kostovs are eastern European design which isn't performance oriented but brutal conditions longevity. A warp 9 is rated higher hp and torque but doesn't play well with voltages above 144. Kostovs aren't a good choice for drag racing, but incredible in a taxi or box truck. I suggest yanking it and going back to the 9.
Well not sure if it warmed up where you are, but it hit 86 here in reno last week and my pack got to its happy place. Almost forgot how nice it was. Go look for low cells. Your calb cells seem to die of old ageYup still here every once in a blue moon. Hate the google educated bunch that comment but haven't built anything.
Reconfiguring it to parallel field seemed to help it and haven't noticed a reduction in performance.
Ooooh I like that concept, except that it might increase current significantly.
1. "Interpoles are counter wound coils that reduce back emf which leads to zorching the commutation at voltages above 150v" Did you mean "BELOW" 150v?
Nope above 150 the carbon in the brush gaps conducts or the air gap becomes inadequate and you get uncontrolled flashover. Two things: arcs erode the comm, and huge braking effect as the powered poles no longer align.
2. Can you explain why the voltage needs to go up? I could add some but I'd have to reconfigure the battery box and charger.
Doesn't need to go up, but the motor charts show as you increase voltage you conquer back emf , current requirements go down, possibly more battery capacity.........
3. Anything else that you can suggest other than a motor swap?
On a kostov, just go in there and disconnect the interpoles and make sure it it's neutrally timed, since they all seem to be retarded from the factory. Kennybobby did a how to maybe 10 years ago, but it's a common industrial maintenance.
If I need to boost the voltage, I certainly can. However the (200AH cells) Calb pack I run has lost some capacity, has about 15K miles on it. Not sure how much but a recent replacement battery voltage holds steady while the others have dropped a bit and it throws my balance meter out somewhere around 150AH of use. Where I once got about 90-100 miles on a charge, yesterday I ran it about 45 miles and the voltage was dropping fairly fast, down to 148V at 149AH depleted. So it would def help my range to go higher pack V.