I did find and use thehey did you end up getting the bosch relay? let me know i need one too!!
I do have an album that's a lil out dated but it is http://www.evalbum.com/preview.php?vid=2319 I hope to put some picts up soon as some of those a not correct. I have changed the configuration of the front electrical components and it is now painted.congrats on the build btw! you have an ev album?
If you are using a standard automotive relay, or other relay with contacts only rated for about 30 volts DC, you should include a quencharc to suppress contact arcing and use a relay rated to switch at least 3 amps. The idea is to stop the initial arc and have lots of extra metal mass on the contacts to prevent the contacts from becoming welded. The Curtis manual states that if ksi is switched with a relay the contacts need to be rated for at least 30 milliamps (top of page 12.).
It is not actually rated for the DC voltage required but I've seen similar relays used successfully many times. You should include the quencharc I linked to or even just a 1uf capacitor across the contacts (adding the resistor makes it better.)i'm a little confused. so will the bosch relay work as a ksi switch? i already ordered it. should be here soon.
i am running 120v. i was going to use the 12v relay to turn on the controller. here is my set up;are you switching pack voltage. I don't know how many volts your vehicle is running. The KSI input on a lot of controllers is pack voltage. For example, you have a 144V pack, and your controller requires 144V on the enable pin to get the controller working.
so, you're running +pack through the contacts of the relay and microswitch on your PB-6, into the KSI input on the controller. Are you doing that? or are you giving the controller 12V to enable?
those contacts are rated 12V 20A, not 144V 20A. As you go higher, there's a real problem with arcing, even with low current devices like the enable on a controller. You should check.