[SeriesConverter]

Hi all,

I'm looking to convert a 1967 LWB series IIa to electric and was wondering if you might be able to help. The chassis is stable although considering rebuilding on a galvanised chassis, but that’s a bit beside the point.

The current plan is to use a hyper 9 motor, and I was hoping to have ~64kwh battery capacity (if not more!) and was wondering if you had any ideas or suggestions on battery modules and their placement for adequate weight distribution?

Correct me if I’m wrong, but my understanding was that if using 5.3kwh Tesla modules, you could place 6 under the bonnet and then place the other 6 where the fuel tank is.

Any advice on the best way to fabricate battery boxes also much appreciated.

 

[Tomdb]

Do not use a Hyper 9 motor if you want that big a pack, go for a propper high voltage setup.

 

[EV-Caveman]

I did 2 of these so far (a 1962 and a 1964), both with 7 tesla modules and a hyper 9.
The hyper 9 actually has to be detuned in order not to blow up the transfer case and all other drive components.

I did 2 tesla modules on each side of the frame (1 side where the gas tank goes, and then the opposite side)
and 3 modules under the hood. that gave me 37kw and a range of about 120 miles.

I believe you could fit 2 more modules on the back (where you can see I mounted the charger) and maybe you could squezze a few more under the hood with a custom battery box.
I used the amp revolt 3 module battery box for under the hood and amp revolt 2 module batt box for under the driver and passenger seat for a total of 7 modules.

 

[Bratitude]

run a leaf motor so you can run 96s nominal from the tesla pack. itll be cheaper than a hyper 9 too.

or run a tesla drive unit where the transferase was with zero ev's replacement gearset. this gives you the full engine bay for batteries

 

[SeriesConverter]

Do not use a Hyper 9 motor if you want that big a pack, go for a propper high voltage setup.

Is there another motor in particular you’d recommend?

 

[SeriesConverter]

I did 2 of these so far (a 1962 and a 1964), both with 7 tesla modules and a hyper 9.
The hyper 9 actually has to be detuned in order not to blow up the transfer case and all other drive components.

I did 2 tesla modules on each side of the frame (1 side where the gas tank goes, and then the opposite side)
and 3 modules under the hood. that gave me 37kw and a range of about 120 miles.

I believe you could fit 2 more modules on the back (where you can see I mounted the charger) and maybe you could squezze a few more under the hood with a custom battery box.
I used the amp revolt 3 module battery box for under the hood and amp revolt 2 module batt box for under the driver and passenger seat for a total of 7 modules.


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This is great, thank you! I’ve read you can only get about 2 miles per kWh - any advice on how you’ve got such good range?

And what did you do with the hyper 9 when detuning it?

 

[SeriesConverter]

run a leaf motor so you can run 96s nominal from the tesla pack. itll be cheaper than a hyper 9 too.

or run a tesla drive unit where the transferase was with zero ev's replacement gearset. this gives you the full engine bay for batteries

Was thinking of the Tesla drive unit as an alternative, will also consider the leaf motor thank you!

 

[Tomdb]

Is there another motor in particular you’d recommend?

This all depends on your requirements, like how fast you want to charge and what sort of performance you want from the vehicle.

given that you mention 64 kWh of battery it will end up being heavy and will on average consumer 1 kWh per 2 miles. This means your vehicle is heavy and thus you need a higher continuous rating of the electric motor, a Hyper 9 is very limited in its continuous duty.

 

[EV-Caveman]

This is great, thank you! I’ve read you can only get about 2 miles per kWh - any advice on how you’ve got such good range?

And what did you do with the hyper 9 when detuning it?

Hi, you detune it via the inverter configuration, you will have to put a less aggressive acceleration curve and there are many other parameters you can play with in order not to snap everything, remember the hyper9 has 200 ft lbs of torque at 1 rpm, so you want that delivery to be smooth when you hit the throttle. several other parameters will need to be tweaked, like the amount of regen etc..

As far as the range goes, I used a Hi Voltage hyper9, which is 144v instead of the 100v the normal one has, that allowed me to use 7 tesla modules instead of 5 that you would normally use.
The proper gearing is key as well, since you want to keep the hyper 9 at is peak efficiency (about 3200 rpm)
The motor itself is the 100v version, but the inverter is the 144v and it will take care putting out the correct voltage to the motor.