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Locost EV conversion log

10322 Views 86 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Wayne Alexander
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Hi everyone,

I am still in the early planning stages here, but I thought I may as well start a thread to document some of what I'm working on/planning, both for information and feedback.

The car:
-Lotus 7 replica (AKA 'Locost'), built by myself to original book dimensions.
-Currently powered by a 2004 Yamaha R1 motorcycle engine.
-Current weight is about 1200 lbs without driver and half a tank of gas
-Primary use is Autocross, though it is street legal

Goals:
-Safe and well-built EV conversion
-Torque at low speeds but still possible to cruise on the freeway
-Keep reasonably close to the same weight
-Range isn't a huge concern but 30 miles or so would be nice
-Keep costs under $10k CAD?

Here's a photo from last season:

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Sky


So the car is obviously a front engine RWD layout (I guess, technically the engine is 'mid' since no part of it is forward of the front axle). The rear axle is a narrowed Ford 7.5" out of a Ranger. From what I can tell, it looks like I can get up to a 4.56 gearset for it. It is currently geared to 3.45, which means the engine is running at 6-7000 rpm on the highway (not good) and still doesn't have as much low end torque as I would like. Also, due to the open intake and limited space for a muffler, I am constantly within a decibel or so of going over the noise limit when I get near redline at WOT. The car will do over 60 MPH in first gear, so I rarely even hit second on the courses we typically run here.

Since I will be left without a transmission after the bike engine is out, and to keep weight down, I am planning to go directly from motor to axle with a two-piece driveshaft. I thought long and hard about a DC motor, but decided against it due to a few reasons, including choice of controllers and availability of suitable motors locally.

So I am looking at either a Leaf motor or a Hyper 9. It would be nice to use a Leaf motor for the lower cost, and bonus if I can get the charger to work with whatever batteries I choose. Right now I can't seem to find much info on using the charger, and even less info on using it with a different battery voltage.

And speaking of batteries, I'm leaning towards second gen Chevy Volt. It looks like I could fit four modules in the car - two under the hood and two in the back where the gas tank is now. The Volt battery comes with three 16s modules and four 12s modules, so I can think of two possibilities:
1. Use two of each module size to get 28s2p (actually 4p since each module is internally 2p) (Good for Hyper 9)
2. Use all three 16s modules plus one 12s in series for 60s (Leaf motor would need at least this much voltage)

Since I designed all the suspension and everything except for the basic layout of the 'book chassis', I already had a CAD model to start with. Here's what it looks like with the Hyper 9 and a Spicer PTO u-joint adapter:
Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive parking light Motor vehicle


And finally, some of my comparisons. I had to go and wrap my head around how synchronous motors work, so hopefully this is right. I would really appreciate some feedback on this! To get the Leaf numbers, I first took the commonly available graph for the 80kW motor and scaled it up to 110kW at the same RPM. I then scaled the RPM for a given torque value, based on going from 360v to 240v.
Sky Rectangle Astronomical object Slope Parallel


If I did that all correct, it looks like the Leaf motor would give me better torque up to about 40 mph and then the Hyper 9 takes over. The MPH line assumes 4.56 gears. On one hand, I like the added low end power, but on the other hand, power is only useful if you can put it to the ground. Maybe as a next step, I should make another graph that compares wheel torque instead of driveshaft torque, and play around with different combinations of motors and rear end gears.

And that's about where I am at now. Any input is appreciated. My timeline for buying parts is basically most of the summer, then once this season is over I plan to tear the car down and start the conversion as a winter project.

Cheers!
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So the car is obviously a front engine RWD layout (I guess, technically the engine is 'mid' since no part of it is forward of the front axle).
Yes, "front-mid engine"; Nissan even named one of its platforms FMR in recognition of this configuration.

Since I designed all the suspension and everything except for the basic layout of the 'book chassis', I already had a CAD model to start with. Here's what it looks like with the Hyper 9 and a Spicer PTO u-joint adapter:
View attachment 128742
The motor appears to be in roughly the stock engine location. Can it go further back, in location of a Lotus 7 or Locost (but not this motorcycle-powered) transmission? That would help with space for battery in the front.
... Due to the bike engine layout, I did not build much of a widening into the tunnel - partly to allow myself some more room at the pedal box. The tunnel is very narrow through the middle of the car, widening to the passenger side near the front to accommodate the offset output shaft of the engine.
That makes sense, but it's unfortunate for this conversion. It is, perhaps, an argument for going for the new build now, whether that has an independent rear suspension and rear-mounted drive unit or the current suspension and a tunnel-mounted motor.
... but I think what I figured out was that for a given rpm, if you increase the voltage by a factor of x, the amperage will also increase by x...
No, because while there is resistance in motor windings, the motor is not simply a resistor. Voltage is needed to overcome back EMF which is proportional to both speed and current.
Check out the miata zeroev built with a direct-drive hyper 9 on YouTube. It has a torquebox (1.6:1 i think) to a 4.1 rear end ...
It has a reduction gearbox, so it's not direct-drive, although it is fixed-ratio (or single-speed).

Zero EV built their own reduction gearbox for this car, and were testing it in preparation for putting it into production... but it has never appeared as a product on their website. Zero EV's own YouTube videos provide much more detail than The Late Brake Show.
I checked the voltages - decided that they were too close to the 3.5 volts that I use as a minimum and charged them up to 3.9 volts

I feel much happier about that battery being stored with a middle ish charge
While at mid-point charge would be to the nominal cell voltage (3.75V in this case), recommended storage state of charge is usually significantly more than 50%, and 3.9 V/cell seems generally reasonable.
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