I wouldn't use loctite or petroleum on battery terminal threads.. Use the appropriate spring washer (belleville or lock) and the correct torque,...what ever that happens to be. Then check them after one week, then one month...three months...etc...
Stainless steel resistivity is about 700 nano-Ohm-metersyes, or no on LiFePO4 terminal bolts?
I hate the thought of one coming loose, but not sure if loctite would mess us the conductivity between terminal bolt/terminal. Otherwise I'll just use a little petroleum jelly and trust the spring washers I guess.
For 8mm bolts, I use 100in-lbs. At 120in-lbs, some threads started to show damage after a couple cycles.Also, I am not finding any torque specs on tightening the terminal bolts, which makes me a little vervous going into AL and CU posts.... Anyone have safe specs on this?
not a bad solution since I have heard the depth of the threads is not consistant and sometimes causes loose connections if you THINK you are tight, and you're not.I scrapped the bolts that came with the batteries altogether and used stainless steel M8 - 1.25 X 35mm studs.
This method ensures that you use all the available female threads in battery posts since they are the weakest link...
not a bad solution since I have heard the depth of the threads is not consistant and sometimes causes loose connections if you THINK you are tight, and you're not.
I used stainless steel studs because I wanted to duplicate what I had received with my Thundersky cells (grade A4 stainless cap screws). Also I figured it would be best to use stainless a precaution to avoid any galvanic reaction between the dis-similar metals....
Did you get set screws and drive them down first ?, or cut all-thread to length, or ? and I am assuming you used SS to avoid galvanic reaction with either copper or al and as well as being non-rusting? Would you go with 35mm length again, or will 30mm leave enough length for the thicker stack of stuff when putting on the standard 2/0 lug on the last terminals?
ya know, this reminds me to ask, are the bolts that come with the Thunderskys SS, or not? I am unfamiliar with the markings on the head of metric stuff. Hhhmm, I guess I can go check with a magnet.... just checked, not stainless.
All stainless steels except the austenitic group (300 series) are magnetic.my TS came with bolts, flat, and lock washers, but NOT stainless since the magnet stuck to them
Oops... I think it is actually the ferritic SS that are magnetic. The austenitic are typically not magnetic.... (ferritic = ferrite = iron = magnetic)... ... that's how I try and remember it. The autenitic has more nickelAll stainless steels except the austenitic group (300 series) are magnetic.