Please forgive me, I have watched Damien Maguire videos I have been to the OpenInverter.org wiki and I'm a moron I can not read no wiring diagrams, I have also spent minutes searching this forum for any builds that would have these pics, and I am witnessing a familiar trend and that is where the pics have vanished because they were linked to instead of uploaded to this forum, anyway what I am looking for is some pictures of how you would hook up the Lexus GS450H transmission to its OEM inverter and then to the rest of the minimal components to get it to spin for the first time.
all I know so far is that the two fat orange cables that usually come with the gear box bolt up to the OEM Inverter obviously, please be gentle as I am learning here, and this may also help others out
Scenario 1. (no battery pack) just using a Bench DC Power Supply
Scenario 2. using batteries but out of the car on the shop floor type of thing
1. you do not need 300 plus volts to bench test your system ie Inverter / Transmission, Damien runs his bench tests as low as 40 volts using a bench DC power source gizmo (if any of you know the make and model of this machine please post it in this thread)
2. in order for both motors to work ie drive the output shaft the input shaft (the one in the front of the transmission) needs to be locked, this can be achieved using the center piece of the OEM clutch plate looking disc (please let me know the proper name of it) and a metal bar or plate bolted across the bell housing of the transmission to prevent the input shaft from spinning (the two speed planetary gears inside the transmission then do their magic allowing both motors to spin the rear shaft and send more power to the wheels)
3. there is a small 12 volt electric oil pump attached on the passenger side of the transmission it needs a separate controller to operate, when buying your transmission make sure it comes with that oil pump and hopefully it's low voltage black wire loom. The little controller box you will most likely have to purchase separately
including a stock pic of the engine bay showing the inverter (upper left) for funsies
all I know so far is that the two fat orange cables that usually come with the gear box bolt up to the OEM Inverter obviously, please be gentle as I am learning here, and this may also help others out
Scenario 1. (no battery pack) just using a Bench DC Power Supply
Scenario 2. using batteries but out of the car on the shop floor type of thing
=== adding this Fun Facts section that may help some people out ===
1. you do not need 300 plus volts to bench test your system ie Inverter / Transmission, Damien runs his bench tests as low as 40 volts using a bench DC power source gizmo (if any of you know the make and model of this machine please post it in this thread)
2. in order for both motors to work ie drive the output shaft the input shaft (the one in the front of the transmission) needs to be locked, this can be achieved using the center piece of the OEM clutch plate looking disc (please let me know the proper name of it) and a metal bar or plate bolted across the bell housing of the transmission to prevent the input shaft from spinning (the two speed planetary gears inside the transmission then do their magic allowing both motors to spin the rear shaft and send more power to the wheels)
3. there is a small 12 volt electric oil pump attached on the passenger side of the transmission it needs a separate controller to operate, when buying your transmission make sure it comes with that oil pump and hopefully it's low voltage black wire loom. The little controller box you will most likely have to purchase separately
including a stock pic of the engine bay showing the inverter (upper left) for funsies