[onegreenev]

Why the heck are you using a Lovejoy coupler? Im assuming you are putting this in an on road vehicle. No, Don't. Get a proper coupler that will hold up to the torque the Warp9 can dish out. You will destroy that Lovejoy and it won't be joy any longer.

 

[onegreenev]

After much research, I have come up with a better solution to the problem that I am facing. I will be using an L150 lovejoy coupler with a bore size diameter of 1.125 inches. I chose to use a Lovejoy coupling because I'm following Rich Rebuild's Mini Cooper conversion where he also used an L150 lovejoy coupling and while I know that this conversion was pretty quick and dirty, it worked and was road worthy which is good enough for me. Also, according to the spec sheet below, an L150 coupler (which is larger than the L100 I am using currently) will be able to hold up to the torque of the Warp9. Here is the spec sheet for the L150 lovejoy coupler: View attachment 127375 View attachment 127376 **Small note: the SOX(NBR) is the spider piece that will be going in between the two lovejoy couplers and the torque rating is somewhat dependent on that. So according to the L150's torque rating of 1,240 in-lbs, I believe that it will be able to handle the Warp9's torque rating of 840 lbs-in. Please let me know if you think otherwise. In this image that highlights the specs of the of the Warp9 motor, I've also highlighted the Warp9's RPM of 5,500 because the L150 apparently has a max RPM or 5,000. Here is the spec sheet: View attachment 127377 So is this difference in max RPM's a problem or not? Someone please let me know. I will be using a 2006 Mini Cooper S Manual transmission shown below. View attachment 127378 Yes, I just realized that. In looking at Rich Rebuild's Mini Cooper conversion, I thought that the coupling was sitting on the motor base, but now I know that the coupling will need to sit up from the motor. So...what does everyone think that using the L150 lovejoy coupling will work? Any more feedback is appreciated. View attachment 127375 View attachment 127376 View attachment 127377 View attachment 127378

After much research, I have come up with a better solution to the problem that I am facing. I will be using an L150 lovejoy coupler with a bore size diameter of 1.125 inches. I chose to use a Lovejoy coupling because I'm following Rich Rebuild's Mini Cooper conversion where he also used an L150 lovejoy coupling and while I know that this conversion was pretty quick and dirty, it worked and was road worthy which is good enough for me. Also, according to the spec sheet below, an L150 coupler (which is larger than the L100 I am using currently) will be able to hold up to the torque of the Warp9. Here is the spec sheet for the L150 lovejoy coupler: View attachment 127375 View attachment 127376 **Small note: the SOX(NBR) is the spider piece that will be going in between the two lovejoy couplers and the torque rating is somewhat dependent on that. So according to the L150's torque rating of 1,240 in-lbs, I believe that it will be able to handle the Warp9's torque rating of 840 lbs-in. Please let me know if you think otherwise. In this image that highlights the specs of the of the Warp9 motor, I've also highlighted the Warp9's RPM of 5,500 because the L150 apparently has a max RPM or 5,000. Here is the spec sheet: View attachment 127377 So is this difference in max RPM's a problem or not? Someone please let me know. I will be using a 2006 Mini Cooper S Manual transmission shown below. View attachment 127378 Yes, I just realized that. In looking at Rich Rebuild's Mini Cooper conversion, I thought that the coupling was sitting on the motor base, but now I know that the coupling will need to sit up from the motor. So...what does everyone think that using the L150 lovejoy coupling will work? Any more feedback is appreciated. View attachment 127375 View attachment 127376 View attachment 127377 View attachment 127378

 

[onegreenev]

No Lovejoy.
Lovejoys are good for low rpm and low torque loads.

“At 2000 amps each motor is probably doing a little over 500 ft-lb of torque.”

 

[onegreenev]

Im thinking you will eventually not be joyous when the Lovejoy coupler dies. As a matter of practicality I think you should not cut corners when building an EV. You don't need to break the bank but you do want your parts to hold up and don't underestimate the the torque these motors dish out. For a stationary motor powering some belt driven device at low rpm the Lovejoy is perfect but for an on the road vehicle it is not practical. For a quick test of something maybe but for daily driving, I do not recommend under any condition for a DIY EV build. It is not the first time seeing someone wanting to use them. I even thought about but that was a rather fleeting thought. 500 amps or 2000 amps the motor dishes out lots of torque in ft lbs not in pounds.

 

[onegreenev]

Why live on the edge of reliability. Use parts that will withstand the abuse.

 

[onegreenev]

I guess you are fully set on the Lovejoy so I can no longer persuade you to see. Experience is a good teacher. I await seeing your project on the road. I await your responses to your choices a year from now.

 

[onegreenev]

The teeth of the love joy, 3 per side is a weak point as well as the rubber center. Constant stop and go will eventually cause the center rubber piece to be slowly crushed and as the gap increases the degradation happens faster. The teeth of the Lovejoy are also a shape that can fail due to fatigue of the edges. They are not designed for constant stop and go hard torque situations. They are designed for light duty or for constant speed and use. So a motor that is always moving without high torque applications constantly beating it to death will last much longer. I think you might be underestimating the power of the torque from these motors. Im sure some Lovejoy couplers might work but using the original vehicles means to couple things together with a clutch or auto trans is best. The solid couplers are best. I chose to use my VW's clutch and pressure plate. I'll be putting in two induction motors for a 167 hp and 173 ft/lb torque at the motor but much more at the wheel. I want to be sure it all holds together. My flywheel will have two clutch discs and a floater plate for the clutch so a stock pressure plate will suffice for the pressure and double the surface area of the clutch disk. 144v and up to 1000 amps combined.

I don't know any who actually had any long term success with them.

 

[onegreenev]

This is just connected to a hydraulic pump. Busted off the teeth. Do a search for Lovejoy here on this site. It is very much recommended to NOT use them in an EV.

 

[onegreenev]

Question, Does your vehicle use a clutch? If so why are you so reluctant to utilize that and just get an adapter plate and coupler so you can bolt your flywheel to that and set it up as it was originally intended? I get you are trying real hard to save a buck or two. I get it. Shop around and look for good used parts from those that have abandoned a vehicle or have upgraded to better. I'd say no to both ideas. Unless your welder is top notch and can assure perfect alignment and a super solid connection then I'd say no and to afford someone like that defeats the purpose of saving a buck. Also I found out from my deep diving into building electric cars many slip on couplers or situations allow slop and it doesn't take much to start pounding away at things. It may run for a few years but will eventually pound out. A good type of coupler is a solid taper lock that can be really torqued down or better and interference fit coupler that must be heated before installation but it will be a one shot deal or you have to cut it off if you muck it up. They are the best and assure a solid connection from shaft to flywheel or transmission. I highly recommend using the vehicles stock clutch flywheel setup or auto transmission. Just being practical here. Im not a super fan of taper lock because they can be installed crooked but they can be removed and adjusted until you have it just right.

 

[onegreenev]

There seems to be a grainy structure in the break - are they made by casting ?

It is likely cast. Forged would be way stronger but they would also be very expensive.

 

[onegreenev]

It probably is but I have no clue how to do that and do it right at that. Do I just give the machine shop the clutch plate with and the motor shaft dimensions, tell them to make a coupling and leave it at that?

So once you have it made please post pictures and then do what you will but after some time keep posting updates and if there is a failure please learn from it and post what happened so others don't have to do the same thing. But because others have done these sorts of things and the outcome was not so good it doesn't make sense that you don't listen to what others are saying. Many who do experience failures never post them. Oh well. I tried. My power of persuasion has apparently not been so good.

 

[onegreenev]

maybe I misunderstood the idea, but if you're welding the two halves together, isn't it easier just to machine a solid shaft coupler to begin with ?

To add, alignment on welded parts is never to machining tolerances. When a part is intended to be welded out of subcomponents, dimensions are left under/oversize to allow for finishing post-welding. So connecting two finished parts by welding is never a good idea.

I agree with you here. If you are going to do a solid coupler buy one for that purpose.