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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a new Masterflux AC unit and controller in my VW conversion and I'm having problems.
1999.5 VW Golf, 208V Thundersky 90ah, Warp 9, Soliton 1, Meanwell 600w DC2DC, Elithion BMS.
Compressor was easy to install with custom hoses. Finished install in late August, cools great as long as the car is sitting still. The controller converts the pack voltage directly to the DC powered compressor. Unit is proper voltage size compressor and controller.
The problem is when the car accelerates the controller cuts off. As soon as I take my foot off the pedal, the unit starts right back up.
I have added the recommended diode to prevent controller interference. We have put a scope on the power lines and we are not seeing big swings in the voltage. Controller has built in safety protocols that shuts down the system when there are problems, like over/under voltage. We are not seeing voltage sags.
I can speed up the motor to just 500RPM and the compressor will start bucking and surging and then shut down.
I have moved the controller away from the motor and controller to see if it was EMI, but that did not fix the problem.
We made up a low pass filter with capacitors and inductors, no noticeable change.
Isolated the 12V relay with an external power supply, no change.
I have connected to the serial port with Putty to monitor the voltage, but the recommended setting only show gibberish. I have tried every other setting I could find and still can't see the output.
I'm thinking there is something I'm overlooking, anybody with experience out there?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Followup for more information. I am using the Sierra 06-0982Y3 Compressor and the 025F140-03 Controller. Controller is rated for 120-400V. Diode is rated for 600V 50A.
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Answer to first question, the only 12v connection is the line for the relay to trigger the controller on with pack voltage. I even isolated that with an external power source.
To HPEVS, is it that simple?!?! We were trying to put massive amounts of inductors and capacitors to equal out the non existent spikes.
What is your voltage and controller set up?
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Answer to first question, the only 12v connection is the line for the relay to trigger the controller on with pack voltage. I even isolated that with an external power source.
To HPEVS, is it that simple?!?! We were trying to put massive amounts of inductors and capacitors to equal out the non existent spikes.
What is your voltage and controller set up?
Thanks
This is in our Corvette which is running 144 volt nominal system, but the issue can be with any voltage system. And Yes, it was that simple. I have a direct contact at Masterflux and he forwarded this to me when we had the same issue you are describing, we added the cap and it just worked.
 

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Sorry, is there a suggested voltage rating for the capacitor?
Thanks again
Sorry, missed the other post. There is going to be very low voltage at this point in the circuit, less than 5 volts. Most .1ufd caps are going to be rated at least 50 volts, that will work. Probably get one at Radio Shack if you don't happen to have one lying around. Also, non polarized.
 

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Thanks Brian! I'll give it a try tomorrow when it dries out a little here.
Saw the Jetta you guys did. Here is the page for my car. I need to update with new shots and specs, but close to what's there.
http://www.evalbum.com/2485
Thanks again
 

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A big thank you to you Brian!
Put in the cap and the unit works just fine!
I looked and looked on the forums for info and couldn't find much of anything. I had the electric blue unit and it couldn't really handle the Texas heat. It was half the price of the Masterflux, and not really worth the price.
The masterflux was easy to install and cools down quickly. Not cheap, but when it comes to staying cool during a commute, it is well worth it! Now my kids will actually ride with me!
 

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A big thank you to you Brian!
Put in the cap and the unit works just fine!
I looked and looked on the forums for info and couldn't find much of anything. I had the electric blue unit and it couldn't really handle the Texas heat. It was half the price of the Masterflux, and not really worth the price.
The masterflux was easy to install and cools down quickly. Not cheap, but when it comes to staying cool during a commute, it is well worth it! Now my kids will actually ride with me!

Glad to help, they are great units.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I appreciate the help with the issue, but I sent a request to Masterflux and received no reply. I also talked with the guys at Revolt Electric in Austin and they had no fix for this issue. If this is such a simple fix for your product, why is there not more information available to end users? There is very little info online about installation or maintenance anywhere! I know you guys work with installers, but this product is really made for the DIY market and you guys are missing a great opportunity in todays EV movement.
If you look on line most of the guys talk about how expensive the unit is but no one knows why. There are hundreds of folks with the need for good AC units in their cars and this is like a secret solution.
I know as a company goes it is best to focus on big clients or bulk sales, but you guys are missing an engaged and knowledgeable base of DIY EV drivers that would like to know what their options are. A few conversion shops doing installs around the country is not going to change your sales numbers. Some grassroots marketing would really change the landscape in this market. Hey, people are foolish enough to buy an ice chest with fans and carry around 50 pounds of ice in the back seat, I think there is a need.
Get yourselves out to the local EV clubs and do some events at EVVCON. If you can get Jack on your side, which I think he has used your unit, there is some great potential.
I will enjoy the cool air, but so many more could be on board.
Thanks
 
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