There is no joint to allow angle changes between the transmission output and the carrier bearing, so the bearing must hold the shaft from the transmission rigidly in the right place. That's no problem in the original design, because the engine is a stiff structure rigidly bolted to the transmission; in your conversion whatever you have for structure will need to do the same job, holding the carrier bearing rigidly in place relative to the transmission and accurately lined up with the transmission output.
Mini Cooper Axle Problems/Placement
Hello Everyone!
I recently purchased a 2006 Mini Cooper S and found out that the front cv axles were busted. I took them out but now I need to put new ones back in. I have two problems right now:
1) Should I go to a salvage yard to get my axles or should I buy some from amazon? Is the salvage yard reliable enough or not?
2) The axle has a carrier bearing that is supposed to attach to the engine, but since I don't have an engine, I'm wondering what I'm supposed to do. How have other EV converters done it? Can I possibly not attach the carrier bearing at all? Any feedback is welcomed.
Here's a picture of the carrier bearing (right, zoomed in) and the axles (left, zoomed out) I will end up using:
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I recently purchased a 2006 Mini Cooper S and found out that the front cv axles were busted. I took them out but now I need to put new ones back in. I have two problems right now:
1) Should I go to a salvage yard to get my axles or should I buy some from amazon? Is the salvage yard reliable enough or not?
2) The axle has a carrier bearing that is supposed to attach to the engine, but since I don't have an engine, I'm wondering what I'm supposed to do. How have other EV converters done it? Can I possibly not attach the carrier bearing at all? Any feedback is welcomed.
Here's a picture of the carrier bearing (right, zoomed in) and the axles (left, zoomed out) I will end up using:
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Ok so I’ll need to make my own structure to bolt this carrier on, correct? Do you have any tips on what I can do for this or have any other EV converters designed structures for similar applications?There is no joint to allow angle changes between the transmission output and the carrier bearing, so the bearing must hold the shaft from the transmission rigidly in the right place. That's no problem in the original design, because the engine is a stiff structure rigidly bolted to the transmission; in your conversion whatever you have for structure will need to do the same job, holding the carrier bearing rigidly in place relative to the transmission and accurately lined up with the transmission output.
Yes, if you're using these axles, presumably because you're using the Mini transaxle.Ok so I’ll need to make my own structure to bolt this carrier on, correct?
I assume that a reasonable approach would be to build a subframe which mounts to the car at the same places as the original engine, and bolts to the adapter for the electric motor and holds the axle carrier. The same structure would presumably be designed to carry the inverter or other components in the area. This must be a somewhat common situation, because many cars use this sort of bearing, but I haven't seen any other examples of conversions dealing with this.Do you have any tips on what I can do for this or have any other EV converters designed structures for similar applications?
Hello Everyone!
I recently purchased a 2006 Mini Cooper S and found out that the front cv axles were busted. I took them out but now I need to put new ones back in. I have two problems right now:
1) Should I go to a salvage yard to get my axles or should I buy some from amazon? Is the salvage yard reliable enough or not?
2) The axle has a carrier bearing that is supposed to attach to the engine, but since I don't have an engine, I'm wondering what I'm supposed to do. How have other EV converters done it? Can I possibly not attach the carrier bearing at all? Any feedback is welcomed.
Here's a picture of the carrier bearing (right, zoomed in) and the axles (left, zoomed out) I will end up using:
View attachment 127241
View attachment 127240
Curious. Is there a change in the shaft(s) angle at the carrier bearing? If not, maybe having a long shaft made so as to not have 2 pieces? Am considering a mini conversion and this issue needs to be resolved for me before buying a donor. May decide on another vehicle.
Curious. Is there a change in the shaft(s) angle at the carrier bearing? If not, maybe having a long shaft made so as to not have 2 pieces? Am considering a mini conversion and this issue needs to be resolved for me before buying a donor. May decide on another vehicle.
Also, wondering where to get a motor-trans adapter. Don't see any off the shelf for new mini's.
Typically there is no significant change of angle at a steady bearing like this. A single longer shaft is a reasonable possibility, and of course many transverse-engine vehicles do this; however, there can be problems with clearance between the large inboard CV joint and the motor housing, clearance for the whole shaft would need to be confirmed as the suspension travels and the wheel steers in any combination, and long shafts must be designed appropriately for torsional and bending stiffness (which often means a larger-diameter but hollow shaft).Curious. Is there a change in the shaft(s) angle at the carrier bearing? If not, maybe having a long shaft made so as to not have 2 pieces? Am considering a mini conversion and this issue needs to be resolved for me before buying a donor. May decide on another vehicle.
This is an example from windraver's thread:
- the halfshafts from a Honda CRX (which does not use a steady bearing) are both one-piece and the long side is large (and presumably hollow), but
- the halfshafts from a Nissan Leaf (which does use a steady bearing) are similar to each other.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
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