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I'm sick and tired of the limits kicking in on these controllers when I'm in the middle of a race. What's cheapest and most powerful controller for racing????
 

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I'm sick and tired of the limits kicking in on these controllers when I'm in the middle of a race.
Hi bumb,

What controller and what races are you speaking about?

What's cheapest and most powerful controller for racing??
Why would you think these two attributes would go hand in hand?

Regards,

major
 

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eVnetics Soliton-1 or the Netgain Controls Warp Controller are similar in price and power and are currently supported controlers, while the Zilla is hibernating (again)...

The Soliton-1 can put out 1000A whenever you need it..if you go max voltage with your battery pack, 320V, Voltage sag @ 1000A will take you down to 280V, so 280kw = 376hp (@ 0-rpm all the way up to 5000rpm)
 

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eVnetics Soliton-1 or the Netgain Controls Warp Controller are similar in price and power and are currently supported controlers, while the Zilla is hibernating (again)...

The Soliton-1 can put out 1000A whenever you need it..if you go max voltage with your battery pack, 320V, Voltage sag @ 1000A will take you down to 280V, so 280kw = 376hp (@ 0-rpm all the way up to 5000rpm)
You are correct on the current, however the power doesn't exactly work like that, you will not get 376hp from 0 to 5k rpm.

You will have ~300ft-lbs of torque (this is motor dependant) from 0-5000rpm or to whatever RPM you can keep the motor current at 1000A, however hp is a function of torque and RPM, so hp will start out low and build to a peak of 376hp at higher RPM just like a gas engine.
 

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Well, you did ask for "cheapest and most powerful" ...

A huge contactor. For a lower voltage class this well could be fastest and cheapest. For higher powers, though, the uncontrolled wheelspin, broken tranny gears, twisted driveshafts, etc. would make you slower. Also, switching a contactor to make and break large currents is begging for it to fail. Charts I saw showed failure in the 1 to 100 actuations range when highly stressed.
I'm sick and tired of the limits kicking in on these controllers when I'm in the middle of a race. What's cheapest and most powerful controller for racing????
 

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so 280kw = 376hp (@ 0-rpm all the way up to 5000rpm)
Take care Bowser......

0 rpm always give 0 hp.
And to have 376 hp @ 5000 rpm, you need 395 lbs-ft of torque.
This 395 lbs-ft can only give 75 hp @ 1000 rpm and 7.5 hp @ 100 rpm.
At fix amps, torque is constant and hp is linear.


....Wow!..
So many information in few minutes!!
 

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I'm sick and tired of the limits kicking in on these controllers when I'm in the middle of a race. What's cheapest and most powerful controller for racing????

The contactor sounds like the best idea yet! Just sucks when you're trying to pull into a tight parking spot @ 5000 amps... hehehe

On a more serious note, I would buy a used EP-1000 or EP-2000 controller. You can get a used EP-1000 for under 1500 bucks now... and although not designed to be a car controller per say, they work really well. They are kind of big, but they only weigh about 20 pounds....

And don't let the 1000-amp rating fool ya -- they go well over that!!!

- Paul
 

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The contactor sounds like the best idea yet!
If that's so, how about a few of them? You can divide the pack in a couple of stages with a lower voltage to start and then applying a higher potential after you break inertia. You might be able to wire some for a 12V slow parking job.

JR
 

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Actually, I once tried that, but it didn't work... I had a 48V and a 12V contactor, for two different speeds. but for some reason, these low voltage series-wound motors want to accelerate fast, no matter how low the voltage is.

Yes, it took off slower with the 12V, but it still surged forward.. way too fast to park it properly. It's wierd...
 

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What are these? Google has central heating controllers,Ethernet controllers, MIDI controllers

EP-1000 or EP-2000 controller

None of which sounds useful
 
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