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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all! First post here. I just picked up a 4 seater Ford Think at the auction. She’ll need a good cleaning for starters. There is no key so I bought a blank and hopefully the local locksmith can cut it if I give them the ignition switch.

Is the same key good for the trunk, etc as well? Single key?

Also, is there a service manual I can download somewhere? Wanted to look at the electrical diagram.

I had an old Harley Davidson electric cart that I restored and sold a couple years back, so I have a little bit of basic electrical cart knowledge.

I’ll have lots of questions about her once I pick it up on Wednesday.

Thanks,
Leo
 

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Hi MPDano, welcome! That is a very practical looking golf cart! I don't think anyone here knows anything about that model. I don't think the drive selector is the ignition switch, might be wrong. Got a link to that pdf?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi MPDano, welcome! That is a very practical looking golf cart! I don't think anyone here knows anything about that model. I don't think the drive selector is the ignition switch, might be wrong. Got a link to that pdf?
Sure, after finding the owners manual as well. That switch does power on the motor as well set drive/reverse.

Let me see if I can attach the electrical pdf
 

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ah lots of good stuff in there, should be easy to hotwire if you can't get a "real" key. Does the key lock the steering wheel or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ah lots of good stuff in there, should be easy to hotwire if you can't get a "real" key. Does the key lock the steering wheel or something?
Dunno and I hope not as I am picking it up tomorrow.

Yes, by looking at the pinout, looks like a jumper wire should do it.
 

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my guess with all those moving functions (reverse,turf,drive) it doesn't interlock, but not impossible. Really once you get it turned on, the only thing I would suggest is looking into used leaf or chevy volt batteries. Probably as cheap as lead and a whole lot better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
my guess with all those moving functions (reverse,turf,drive) it doesn't interlock, but not impossible. Really once you get it turned on, the only thing I would suggest is looking into used leaf or chevy volt batteries. Probably as cheap as lead and a whole lot better.
Interesting. Didn't know those will fit. I also heard that it will need to be reprogrammed if Motorcraft batteries aren't fitted back in. Just read that somewhere.
 

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oh it will take some research, gotta get charging and monitoring/protection sorted out, but yah no prob fitting w/leaf modules, volt are a bit bulkier.

here is my elec-trak that used to take 6 huge batteries, now runs all summer on one charge and less than 1/2 the volume.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/dcbs-ge-e10m-leaf-battery-upgrade-159010.html 3 modules in parallel x 5 in series for 37.5volts, so you would want 10 in series.

I have a brain dead pack balance monitor on it, so I have to terminate charge (and discharge) manually and watch it, i.e. like a gas gauge. but there are all kinds of options at varying degrees of expense/complexity/reliability. I've not researched specific BMS's in depth. And you might need to hack on the built in charger to get it to shut off reliably and possibly low voltage cutoff in the controller, and ???

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...-pack-balance-monitor-batt-bridge-165953.html

you do have to be extra careful w/lithium, it does occasionally burn stuff down, even with very fancy electronics watching it, but usually as a result of an absent minded experimenter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Interesting mod on the tractor. So when you say modules, your talking about the batteries, correct?
 

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Interesting mod on the tractor. So when you say modules, your talking about the batteries, correct?
yup, the packaging of 4 cells into a 7.5v 60ah module. for leaf they are about $100 apiece plus shipping on ebay, or you can get a whole pack (48 modules) for about $2k on car-part.com.

you can get a whole volt pack for about $1500 but it is broken into 24 and 48v modules, so they are larger, giving you less flexibility, and you might need to parallel the modules at the cell level if you want more range, which is much easier with the leaf modules (mine is 3x parallel, just get the polarity right and make a buss bar).

plus there are lots of other packs out there, don't use nimh hybrid packs though.

don't let them get overdischarged or overcharged or out of balance basically. @ 72v and 5kw you don't have to worry about drawing too much current from them really. I don't know if your onboard charger will work though, mine is basically just a transformer on a timer so it had no problem with a slight increase in pack voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good info on the conversion. I am going to keep it stock for now. I ordered a BatteryMinder GEL charger to see if any of the ones I have can be saved.

Been pulling parts off to remove rust and repaint. Painted my seats with SEM flexible white and they look like new again.

Hard part has been pulling and sanding off all the rust off the seat rails. Need to pull the darker grey panels to give them a refresh as well.

Super hot in San Diego right now :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got her almost all back together after getting the Instrument Cluster repaired. Signal stalk is all corroded so need to get another one, but at least I can get most of it back together. Just a few more things to paint as well as the enclosure and this will be done. Drove the Ford Think all around the neighborhood and she runs super smooth and quiet. Weird actually hearing the road rocks hit the inner fenders. Was surprised when I got the cluster back and this electric vehicle has only 953 total miles on her. Getting closer to done.
 

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