[sadcar]

4x 12v batteries in series gives 48v that means neg from batt1 to pos batt2, neg batt2 to pos batt3, neg batt3 to pos batt4,
if 1 battery is given as 12v 10a the you have 48v 10a, for more amps you have to use larger batteries if you want to stay with 48v

 

[Functional Artist]

IIRC
If the controller senses (receives) lower than required voltage
...the "low voltage protection" function would "kick in" (no green light)
(to help protect your battery pack)

The green light only lights when everything is functioning normally
...it's main job is to tell you, "if" your good to go

1.) What is the voltage, that you have, going in to the controller?

2.) What throttle do you have

3.) & how do you have it connected?


It always makes me shiver when someone says "I shorted..."

NEVER SHORT STUFF DIRECTLY
...always use a small fuse (like 3A or 5A)

That way, if it's a mistake (hopefully) the fuse "pops" & not the component that your testing your "idea" on

 

[Functional Artist]

4x 12v batteries in series gives 48v that means neg from batt1 to pos batt2, neg batt2 to pos batt3, neg batt3 to pos batt4,
if 1 battery is given as 12v 10a the you have 48v 10a, for more amps you have to use larger batteries if you want to stay with 48v

IMO
larger batteries would give more capacity
...but, not "actually" more amps

I have used many 12V SLA batteries usually from 12V 12AH up to 12V 35AH

The 12V 12AH SLA's say (on the side of the battery) "Initial Current (less than 3.6A)
...but, I have pulled nearly 100A out of them many times

There is a tremendous voltage sag (watch the meter in the video)
...but, they do it


Here is a video where I did some "against the wall" tests

The tests were to see what kind of amps a ZY1020 48V 1,000W motor would draw
...but, it also shows what these small SLA batteries are capable of

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVip7AKtHZg

 

[aks895]

IIRC
If the controller senses (receives) lower than required voltage
...the "low voltage protection" function would "kick in" (no green light)
(to help protect your battery pack)

The green light only lights when everything is functioning normally
...it's main job is to tell you, "if" your good to go

1.) What is the voltage, that you have, going in to the controller?

2.) What throttle do you have

3.) & how do you have it connected?


It always makes me shiver when someone says "I shorted..."

NEVER SHORT STUFF DIRECTLY
...always use a small fuse (like 3A or 5A)

That way, if it's a mistake (hopefully) the fuse "pops" & not the component that your testing your "idea" on

48V going into the controller
I am having a twist type throttle like in a bike

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ba0KcBLKIahiacMqAJgnFz03fgbH2HxF/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g9Rnf4A1VrxZ7c8v2RGbii9UpTchgMSr/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ar_6uX320GZ15ZEWeEyNnY1Ue1Qtj_hl/view?usp=sharing

I had screwed in the connections properly during testing, I just took these pics after I had disconnected it from the batteries, that's why B+ and B- terminals are not shown screwed in.

These were the pics I sent to Fany(Kelly controller support)
The controller just flashes Red then there is no LED ON, ideally green should always stay ON
video -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GCUbenZ40oLmDT2aoNDFyx6rF-1VgAN6/view?usp=sharing

The green LED flashes green and turns off only once, if we try to power on the controller again on the same day it will never turn on the green led.

 

[Functional Artist]

Maybe hook up your programming cord
...go in & do some exploring
...just to see what everything is "set at"


Example:
If the "Low battery Cut-off Voltage" is set at anything higher than 48V
...you wouldn't get a green light @ turn on
...but, it should also flash a (1,3 red) error code


The manual covers
...GREEN OFF (no power/switched off)
...GREEN ON (normal operation)
...GREEN & RED are both on (software issue, too low or high of voltage or controller damaged)
...but, it doesn't mention a solid red error situation

 

[aks895]

So I tried connecting the controller with my PC as shown here,
http://www.kellycontroller.com/ConnectHelp.php

Now I get the error code for Hall Sensor error and low voltage till, green led is not solid ON as shown in the website.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!ApUrq55G9ocHlW_5xwDctMuH1fbo

I connected it according to the instructions in the manual, (B- is disconnected from the battery pack, only PWR and RTN connected).

It is even recognized by the software and I am able to change the config, low voltage is set to 18 V, I am applying 48 V so that is not a problem

 

[Functional Artist]

Speed controllers (most electronics) have "safe"/usable" voltage ranges
...because the voltage changes as the battery is drained.

The voltage level of a 48V SLA battery pack goes from
...~53V (fully charged)
...to ~40V (lowest level you can "safely" drain the battery down to without damaging it)

Safe voltage ranges
(for most SLA's)

12V = 10V - 13.3V
24V = 20V - 26.6V
36V = 30V - 39.9V
48V = 40V - 53.2V
60V = 50V - 66.5V

So, maybe try
...setting the low voltage ~40V & the high voltage ~ 53V

If you still get hall sensor error maybe
...disconnect the throttle

 

[aks895]

Speed controllers (most electronics) have "safe"/usable" voltage ranges
...because the voltage changes as the battery is drained.

The voltage level of a 48V SLA battery pack goes from
...~53V (fully charged)
...to ~40V (lowest level you can "safely" drain the battery down to without damaging it)

Safe voltage ranges
(for most SLA's)

12V = 10V - 13.3V
24V = 20V - 26.6V
36V = 30V - 39.9V
48V = 40V - 53.2V
60V = 50V - 66.5V

So, maybe try
...setting the low voltage ~40V & the high voltage ~ 53V

If you still get hall sensor error maybe
...disconnect the throttle

Yeah my combined battery voltage is ~52.
The default settings in the controller is 18V for low voltage and 70V for high voltage.

 

[aks895]

So I finally got the motor working
Seems only the green led is faulty (thankfully) as it sometimes lights up and goes off randomly with the motor still running regardless of the green led.

It was the throttle that was the issue, just replaced it with a simple 5K potentiometer and it started working.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17oU5i1MoiOUYWKVLfM0hYmbk_4FSEXjC/view?usp=sharing

And after this I connected the throttle to pwm output of Arduino to control the motor wirelessly and that too works. I hope giving pwm (max 5 V) to throttle pin wont do any damage in the long term (atleast till the day of the demo ).
I am applying just around 0.125V (max) through pwm to keep the max speed as less as possible, also I have programmed the controller to run at 50% speed.

How to electrically brake the motor with the current setup (without regen might not need that at the moment)? Right now I am just cutting of the pwm signal from the throttle (giving pwm 0% duty cycle) to stop the motor.

 

[Functional Artist]

Kool, glad you got it going.