Oh and when I brought up the error code it flashes blue the amber solid then all four repeat.
Netgain Controller Error
So I pull out of my drive way which is actually a grassy hill and is coated with ice now. I am rolling down the hill in reverse and the car just slides to the left because the neighbors driveway is nothing but ice too and my car back tires gets stuck in this big mound of snow created by a snow plow. My back wheels rev really hard and there is nothing I can do so I dig myself out for about an hour tearing apart the snow mound and trying to tear apart the ice underneath the back tires ( I swear why me and of course the average person seeing this might say "well its because you just had to go with an electric car" because this has nothing to do with it it further adds to my frustration). So I get it out and with all the reving I decide to pull up the driveway to get a a little bit more charge and I almost make it but the tires just rev and I back down the hill, to the concrete not the ice so I am not stuck, and then as that is happening the controller shuts off and reads some kind of error code. I don't have the interface module because netgain is out so I really can't tell and there is just a red light on no error code flashing. Any ideas what this could be? and this is my current situation as I am writing this btw.
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Hi Inframan,
From the manual, it says:
Error and warnings DTC codes are comprised of four digits. Each digit of a DTC will be expressed on the 4 LED's by lighting up a number of LED's to corresponds to the digit. For example, if the DTC is “1114”, the following will occur:
1. The left-most digit “1” will be expressed as a single-lit LED. 2. A brief pause (about a half of a second)) will occur, and the next digit “1” will be expressed
again as a single-lit LED. 3. Another brief pause pause will occur, and the next digit “1” will be expressed again as a single-
lit LED. 4. A final brief pause will occur, and the last digit of “4” will be expressed by all four LED's
turning on. A long pause will occur (about 3 seconds), and the next DTC will be displayed.
What is the number it gives you? look it up in the manual. Then clear it if it seems minor (again, how to do that is in the manual -- it is a combination of key on/off).
corbin
From the manual, it says:
Error and warnings DTC codes are comprised of four digits. Each digit of a DTC will be expressed on the 4 LED's by lighting up a number of LED's to corresponds to the digit. For example, if the DTC is “1114”, the following will occur:
1. The left-most digit “1” will be expressed as a single-lit LED. 2. A brief pause (about a half of a second)) will occur, and the next digit “1” will be expressed
again as a single-lit LED. 3. Another brief pause pause will occur, and the next digit “1” will be expressed again as a single-
lit LED. 4. A final brief pause will occur, and the last digit of “4” will be expressed by all four LED's
turning on. A long pause will occur (about 3 seconds), and the next DTC will be displayed.
What is the number it gives you? look it up in the manual. Then clear it if it seems minor (again, how to do that is in the manual -- it is a combination of key on/off).
corbin
I read that in the manual and didn't really understand it so if I am looking at the front of the controller the side with the main power connection the led's are in order from left to right green, red, blue, and amber. Then when the manual says "The left-most digit “1” will be expressed as a single-lit LED" Does that mean that green= 1 red=2 blue=3 amber=4? Or can the single lit LED be any other the four just which ever comes on first? Then if that is the case why bother having colored LEDs at all for the error? All I know is that four flashed at the end and that means that 4 is the end number in the string of four digits and I looked up every error code with 4 at the end and none of them seem to apply unless there are more errors than in the sept 2010 manual I have. 1114 12volts below acceptable minimum the dc converter could have been shut off due to low voltage but I have a battery too. 3114 5v power supply went out of limits??? 4114 precharge took to long I was driving the car so no. 4124 upgrade errors wasn't upgrading.
No, it works this way:I read that in the manual and didn't really understand it so if I am looking at the front of the controller the side with the main power connection the led's are in order from left to right green, red, blue, and amber. Then when the manual says "The left-most digit “1” will be expressed as a single-lit LED" Does that mean that green= 1 red=2 blue=3 amber=4? Or can the single lit LED be any other the four just which ever comes on first? Then if that is the case why bother having colored LEDs at all for the error? All I know is that four flashed at the end and that means that 4 is the end number in the string of four digits and I looked up every error code with 4 at the end and none of them seem to apply unless there are more errors than in the sept 2010 manual I have. 1114 12volts below acceptable minimum the dc converter could have been shut off due to low voltage but I have a battery too. 3114 5v power supply went out of limits??? 4114 precharge took to long I was driving the car so no. 4124 upgrade errors wasn't upgrading.
Wait a while for the last pause.
Record how many LED's are lit (somewhere between none of them and all four of them will be lit). Record that number as the first digit.
Pause.
Record how many LED's are lit (somewhere between none of them and all four of them will be lit). Record that number as the second digit.
Pause.
Record how many LED's are lit (somewhere between none of them and all four of them will be lit). Record that number as the third digit.
Pause.
Record how many LED's are lit (somewhere between none of them and all four of them will be lit). Record that number as the fourth digit.
...
I think you have 1114, which is a low 12-volt battery. Once you get that one, you will then see the other errors follow at some point; low 15 volt and low 5 volt, since they are all based off the 12 volt supply. I know because I had this happen when my DC-DC converter blew a fuse on the drive home.
So, I'd charge your 12 volt battery full, reset the codes with the key on/off sequence that it tells you, and see if it happens again. Also, verify your DC-DC output is working properly.
corbin
Anyone have the list of error codes for the first generation netgain classic controller? The manual I downloaded has two digit codes, and I am getting 4 digit error codes, 3112, 4112.
Thanks,
Dale
Thanks,
Dale
send me your email address corbin at corbinstreehouse dot com and I can email you the old manual.Anyone have the list of error codes for the first generation netgain classic controller? The manual I downloaded has two digit codes, and I am getting 4 digit error codes, 3112, 4112.
Thanks,
Dale
3112
15V “B” on-board power supply went out of limits.
4112
Current sensing hardware failed to collect readings.
These may happen if you have a non-terminated can bus line. (based on my experience)
corbin
Anyone have a Netgain Industrial controller and expirence an error code 21?
After running almost 50 track miles at 1000 amps and 280v motor settings I decided to make some adjustments. I bumped up to 1400 amps and reduced motor voltage to 260v and bang, controller shutdown and displayed error 21. I think I have a controller hardware failure.
After running almost 50 track miles at 1000 amps and 280v motor settings I decided to make some adjustments. I bumped up to 1400 amps and reduced motor voltage to 260v and bang, controller shutdown and displayed error 21. I think I have a controller hardware failure.
Assuming the code values haven't changed:Anyone have a Netgain Industrial controller and expirence an error code 21?
After running almost 50 track miles at 1000 amps and 280v motor settings I decided to make some adjustments. I bumped up to 1400 amps and reduced motor voltage to 260v and bang, controller shutdown and displayed error 21. I think I have a controller hardware failure.
21=Desaturation detected. Contact dealer to determine possible causes. In most cases, the controller should be returned for inspection if this warning is encountered.
--corbin
Thanks,
Yes this was a disheartening description to read in the error code table.
I just pulled apart the front battery pack and found that although its fuse looks intact, it has no continuity. I am hoping this is the problem.
Any luck with your issue?
Yes this was a disheartening description to read in the error code table.
I just pulled apart the front battery pack and found that although its fuse looks intact, it has no continuity. I am hoping this is the problem.
Any luck with your issue?
Thanks Corbin for the older manual. It turned out I had 3111 and 3112 (not 4112, my brain fault problem), which I only noticed after hooking up a supplemental circulation pump to the key on circuit, to help with cooling the controller. I installed a relay to isolate the pump and fan on this extra circuit, and it seems to have remedied the problem. Seems like if there are too many things drawing on the key on circuit that is connected to the controller, when the key is turned off it creates errors. Evidently it is sensitive to little things like that... now if I can keep the thing cool enough to not cut back power up the hill home I'll be in business.
Danh: I don't know what desaturation is, but I hope it was just a blown fuse! Is the fuse rated for the higher amps?
Danh: I don't know what desaturation is, but I hope it was just a blown fuse! Is the fuse rated for the higher amps?
The fuse is a Ferraz Shawmut A50QS700-4, which is 500v 700amp. I think I may need to go larger.
Since someone said that they didn't know what desaturation is I though it might be good to mention it:Assuming the code values haven't changed:
21=Desaturation detected. Contact dealer to determine possible causes. In most cases, the controller should be returned for inspection if this warning is encountered.
--corbin
Pretend you have a firehouse with a valve that controls the pressure. The pump supplying the hose and valve has extremely high capacity. Normally the valve opens and water shoots through the hose. This pressure tends to be limited by the size of the hose. But, what happens if you remove the hose and let the water flow out with no restriction? Well, now the valve becomes the limiting factor. This limit might be well in excess of what the hose could ever have actually let through.
Now, turn that all into electricity. You have a battery pack that can put out tremendous current. You have IGBT modules in the control that act as valves that either allow current or block it. Then you have a motor connected that uses this current. The motor can only take X amount of current even though the IGBT is fully on. This means that the IGBT is saturated - it is providing as much power as the other end wants to receive. The limiting factor is the motor and wiring. Now, short the motor wires together. The IGBT sees a load that wants infinite power (in a practical sense). Now the IGBT actually cannot provide all of the power requested of it so it starts to sag in voltage in an attempt to do the best it can. Desaturation detects this condition where the IGBT is trying to output more power than it is physically capable of doing.
That's about the best I think I can explain it. What does that mean in a practical sense? The controller was trying to keep itself from powering a short circuit. This could be due to a faulty IGBT, it could be faulty desaturation detection, it could be that you were asking for more current than the IGBTs are really rated for, it could be that something bad happened to the motor.
In any case if something like this happens you absolutely should stop, stand back, and find out what happened. "Beats me" is not the proper answer here.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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