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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey folks. I started a thread earlier to convert my CJ7 to electric, but I then decided it would be more economical to sell it and buy a car that doesn't run. It's easier to sell a running jeep than a "ran when pulled" engine.

So, that being said, I picked up a fun donor car from Craigslist.

It's a 1969 Mercedes-Benz w115 220. The cam seized, which led to its demise.

I have already secured a Nissan Leaf motor, which I have running using Paul's control board and a Prius throttle pedal. I briefly tested it with my Midget's battery pack, which was pretty fun. I posted that video here, for those who may be interested: https://youtu.be/LuoadNPb7pw

The motor will mate to the old 3.03 out of my Mustang with a canev adapter plate and a Leaf adapter plate. A gentleman will provide me the leaf side of things, including the coupler, once I get him the measurements.

I just (like an hour ago) received an i-Miev battery pack, which I have torn apart to make my own. I'll keep the same configuration (88s1p), but I will package it differently.

I'm using a Lear charger from a Chevy volt to bring the pack up to 360v.

And that's where is sits, now! I welcome any advice. Thanks!



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Hey, I’m using the Leaf motor too, but I’d like to design my own coupler. Do you have the spline spec, the measurements I’ve taken don’t seem to match an SAE standard?
Also, how easy was it to set up Paul’s control board?
Many thanks


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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Paul's board was very easy to set up. Getting the connectors off of the old board was annoying, and they used loctite on the tiny screws to mount it, so you will probably break them all when you remove the board.

I am getting a coupler and adapter made by a member of ES, whose name is Keith Forbes ([email protected]). He may provide the spline measurements to you, but I like what he's doing and I think it's worth just buying. He has also modified Danny's CAD file, and with this coupler it can be easily adapted to just about anything.

20181123_223945.jpeg 20181123_224034.jpeg Billet Leaf Adapter.jpeg Screen Shot 12-08-18 at 08.33 PM.jpeg Screen Shot 12-08-18 at 08.36 PM.jpeg

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The motor will mate to the old 3.03 out of my Mustang with a canev adapter plate and a Leaf adapter plate. A gentleman will provide me the leaf side of things, including the coupler, once I get him the measurements.
I am getting a coupler and adapter made...
If I understand this description and the photos:
  1. the Ford 3.03 transmission bell housing will bolt to the CanEV adapter plate (just the plate, not CanEV's coupler)
  2. the custom Leaf adapter plate (the machined aluminum plate shown in photos) will bolt between the CanEV adapter and the Leaf motor
  3. the Leaf motor and transmission input shafts will each get an internally splined coupler with two drive pins (shown in yellow and green in the CAD rendering)
  4. the motor and transmission couplers will engage each side of an intermediate coupler section (shown in blue)
  5. the intermediate coupler will ride in a bearing (shown inserted into the Leaf adapter plate in the first two photos), with the bearing supported by the Leaf adapter plate

I like this intermediate bearing approach, because it means that neither splined adapter needs to locate a shaft. I'm not so sure about the two-pin drive approach - is that strong enough, and how close will the fit be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If I understand this description and the photos:
  1. the Ford 3.03 transmission bell housing will bolt to the CanEV adapter plate (just the plate, not CanEV's coupler)
  2. the custom Leaf adapter plate (the machined aluminum plate shown in photos) will bolt between the CanEV adapter and the Leaf motor
  3. the Leaf motor and transmission input shafts will each get an internally splined coupler with two drive pins (shown in yellow and green in the CAD rendering)
  4. the motor and transmission couplers will engage each side of an intermediate coupler section (shown in blue)
  5. the intermediate coupler will ride in a bearing (shown inserted into the Leaf adapter plate in the first two photos), with the bearing supported by the Leaf adapter plate

I like this intermediate bearing approach, because it means that neither splined adapter needs to locate a shaft. I'm not so sure about the two-pin drive approach - is that strong enough, and how close will the fit be?
The coupler sides and center section all bolt together, actually. You will notice 6 holes on each side. The two splined portions bolt to the center section. They dont just ride on the pins.

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The coupler sides and center section all bolt together, actually. You will notice 6 holes on each side. The two splined portions bolt to the center section. They dont just ride on the pins.
Thanks. :) I saw the holes, but didn't see any indication of what they were for. Since the rendering doesn't show the splines, I wasn't reading too much into the details, other than the obvious drive pins.

So the pins are to take the drive torque, rather than the bolts being loaded in shear.

I assume that all three coupler components will be bolted together and mounted in the intermediate bearing, then the motor and transmission shafts will be inserted as the motor and transmission are attached to the mounting plates.

I can understand that it would not be practical to machine a single piece with different splines in each end, but I'm not sure why there are three pieces instead of just two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. :) I saw the holes, but didn't see any indication of what they were for. Since the rendering doesn't show the splines, I wasn't reading too much into the details, other than the obvious drive pins.

So the pins are to take the drive torque, rather than the bolts being loaded in shear.

I assume that all three coupler components will be bolted together and mounted in the intermediate bearing, then the motor and transmission shafts will be inserted as the motor and transmission are attached to the mounting plates.

I can understand that it would not be practical to machine a single piece with different splines in each end, but I'm not sure why there are three pieces instead of just two.
There are three pieces because it is supposed to be widely compatible. The leaf spline is always the same, but the transmission spline and the distance between the two will vary greatly. Anyone using a 1 1/16 10 spline input shaft can use the transmission coupler, and the middle portion can just be machine down to the proper distance.

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There are three pieces because it is supposed to be widely compatible. The leaf spline is always the same, but the transmission spline and the distance between the two will vary greatly. Anyone using a 1 1/16 10 spline input shaft can use the transmission coupler, and the middle portion can just be machine down to the proper distance.
That makes sense, but the middle part has drive pins on both sides, so it's not like a simple bushing that can be cut down. If the three parts were connected in rotation by dowels the middle part could be simply turned to length.

After my previous post I did think of one reason for the third piece: in many cases the transmission input shaft should run in a pilot bearing - the middle part could contain the pilot bearing more easily than building both the pilot bearing and the spline into the transmission-side part.

Will there be a pilot bearing, or is the plan to depend on the transmission-side spline to locate the transmission input shaft radially?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That makes sense, but the middle part has drive pins on both sides, so it's not like a simple bushing that can be cut down. If the three parts were connected in rotation by dowels the middle part could be simply turned to length.

After my previous post I did think of one reason for the third piece: in many cases the transmission input shaft should run in a pilot bearing - the middle part could contain the pilot bearing more easily than building both the pilot bearing and the spline into the transmission-side part.

Will there be a pilot bearing, or is the plan to depend on the transmission-side spline to locate the transmission input shaft radially?
Yes, the middle part also has the pilot to keep it aligned.

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It looks similar in function as the old Kaylor adapter plates made for the old air cooled VW transaxles. As you note, it could be attached to most preexisting, well designed DIY or commercial adapter plates. A double row bearing (if it doesn't have it already) or two bearings side by side might be better to support the rotating center section and avoid the potential edge loading of a single row bearing(if that's what it has).
 

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Maybe you've answered this. Did you find a clutch disc with splines that have a close fit to the Leaf shaft? I see you have a disc on the Leaf motor shaft in the video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Maybe you've answered this. Did you find a clutch disc with splines that have a close fit to the Leaf shaft? I see you have a disc on the Leaf motor shaft in the video.
The clutch disc is too loose. You would have to talk to Keith about the splines. I put his information in my earlier post.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, the adapter Keith sent did not fit the CanEV adapter plate. He immediately refunded me, but I haven't heard back since. I have opted to create my own by using Danny's as a template. I posted it to my site, jeffeblack.com if you want to download it. I just used FreeCAD to make it, so you can edit it yourself if you want. I am supposed to get it tomorrow, so we will see how well it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Turned out very nicely. Cost me about $380. I was concerned since this was my first time working with CAD, but it worked great.

I forgot to rotate the transmission holes again, but itll be fine. The motor will end up at a slight tilt.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I had a local machine shop drill some new holes for me. I bolted it all together, and it looks good. I just need to get my coupler, now...


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I am getting a coupler and adapter made by a member of ES, whose name is Keith Forbes ([email protected]). He may provide the spline measurements to you, but I like what he's doing and I think it's worth just buying. He has also modified Danny's CAD file, and with this coupler it can be easily adapted to just about anything.
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Jbman,

I am so pleased to see that the adapter plate design is being put to use! I hope that other members and DIYers find use of it as well. Keep up the good work!

Danny
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Jbman,



I am so pleased to see that the adapter plate design is being put to use! I hope that other members and DIYers find use of it as well. Keep up the good work!



Danny
I actually traced your adapter to get the shape and bolt pattern. I modified my own from there. It looks like it should work well.

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Turned out very nicely. Cost me about $380. I was concerned since this was my first time working with CAD, but it worked great.

I forgot to rotate the transmission holes again, but itll be fine. The motor will end up at a slight tilt.


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Just wondering, what is the purpose of the intermediate bearing? Is the bearing in the drive end of the motor not capable of supporting a traditional coupler?
 

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I am so excited about this conversion. I've been planning to do a W123 chassis Mercedes conversion for a while, also with a Leaf motor. I've been waiting on a solution to the coupler/spline challenge before I get started in earnest. Looks like you've got it figured out. I subscribed to your YouTube channel, can't wait to see more.

In one of your videos you mention that you plan on leaving the transmission in 2nd "all the time". Does that mean that you're going to lock it in 2nd and not have a shift knob inside the car? I've been considering doing that in my own conversion and controlling forward/reverse electronically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just wondering, what is the purpose of the intermediate bearing? Is the bearing in the drive end of the motor not capable of supporting a traditional coupler?
It was recommended, so I went ahead and made space for it. I dont think it's actually necessarily, though, so I took it out.

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