DIY Electric Car Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have come up with a new product intended to make the conversion process easier. Though I have built 5 complete units (one has been temporarily appropriated for use in a demo case), the idea is still young and can be tweaked. This product is a central wiring point for all of the required or desired interlocks on an EV, such as the potbox switch, inertia switch, clutch switch, motor thermal switch, or charger. All of those devices connect to clearly marked terminals on the board. There are also inputs for the ignition and start positions of the key, so that you have to turn the car to start once to enable the system. The board then provides output to a main and a run contactor, as well as an auxiliary output for the controller to indicate that the vehicle is ready to run. The board also provides outputs for dashboard status lights.

The bottom line is, the system mostly eliminates the need for coming up with your own interlock wiring. The packaging is such that you can route wires through the box; connections are made with spade terminals. There are 120V and 230V connections to indicate that a charger is plugged in, as well as another charger interlock that can be used for a charger door switch. The interlocks are all very flexible and there are enough provided for almost any application.

This product is most useful when used with controllers such as the Curtis, that do not have enough sophistication to control their own contactors. The manual provides a complete wiring example of an Advanced DC motor and Curtis controller combination. This could also be used with a Zilla / Hairball interface by connecting the output to the charger enable input, and that enable programmed inverted (I had drawn up a complete example, but it was lost when my hard drive crashed).

My main focus right now is not to sell what I have, which is why I am not posting any prices. If you are interested in buying one, just email my user name at earthlink.net and we can work that out. I am trying to gauge interest and feedback.

Manual: http://home.earthlink.net/~kittydog42/EVICC/Manual.pdf
Outside Picture: http://home.earthlink.net/~kittydog42/EVICC/Outside.jpg
Board Picture: http://home.earthlink.net/~kittydog42/EVICC/Inside.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I'm interested, let me know more as you get info... I have my motor, 9" ADC... looking at a "Curtis" or "DC Control" controller... 500-600 amp range...this is an interesting addition to the project... cost will certainly be a factor but its a good idea...

Ready for more info
Thanks,
nutsandvoltsvw type3 squareback
[email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
In your manual you mentioned an input for a Ford inertia switch. I want to incorporate such a switch in my conversion. Can you give some details as to what Ford models have this switch, maybe a part #. Thankx in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Virtually every Ford/Lincoln/Mercury from at least the late 70's until the present has had one, also known as the fuel cutoff switch. They are usually located in the rear of the car behind an access panel (since it may require a reset), such as in the trunk. They are usually as close to the fuel tank as possible. They way it works is that a ball is contained in the bottom of a funnel, held in place by magnetism. In the event of an accident, the ball is jarred loose from it's perch, and activates a manual reset switch. Since this switch has a NORMALLY CLOSED (N.C.) connection made to the fuel pump circuit, it opens when switched. This prevents the vehicle from running until it is reset. If you have a local self-service wrecking yard, it should be really easy to find one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
On Ranger pickups, it's located on the cab side of the firewall, just above the passenger's feet, kind of behind the carpet.

I would caution you about using a used switch unless you can verify that it's in good condition. The switch in my Ranger must have gotten corroded, as I could not start or drive the truck. After tracing the problem to the intertia switch, I opened it up, disassembled the contacts, cleaned them, applied electronic anti-corrosion cleaner, then reassembled and reinstalled it in the truck. This worked for less than a month before the problem recurred. I yanked the switch out of the vehicle, used a butt connector to splice the two wires together permenantly, and haven't had a lick of trouble with it since.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top