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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Odd behaviors?? Like what? In my mind, I'm just going to drag everything out of the car, then plug it back in, and it will all magically work with a few error messages.

I measured the batteries at 36" wide and 9" high for the "large" 1/2 module. A quick measurement shows I could squeeze two of these in the trunk (and thus the full pack), but it does not do much for weight distribution, and I don't think there would be much room for anything else. So yeah, I'm aiming for a two-seater. I doubt I'll be putting many people in this car as it is...

According to this image, the motor will fit up front, likely with the inverter:



The "power distributor" up top on the 2013+ Leaf will likely need to live in the back seat with the batteries. I plan to run the high voltage wiring and coolant lines through the exhaust tunnel and up through some very-grommeted hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Now I tell ya hwhat, getting the wiring harness out of the interior of this Leaf is...unrewarding.

After taking the passenger side door apart and accidentally locking it forever, I was delighted to find that the wiring had a nicely detachable connector.

I was dismayed to find that I'm pretty much going to have to remove every piece of plastic from the front of this car (and possibly more) to get the wiring out intact. There is also no way that I can see for it to fit through the firewall, so it looks like I'm going to cut a big hole out to fish everything through.

If I had to do this again, I would have put the Leaf right in the middle of my garage and committed to just removing the entire interior, putting it in a pile, then tossing it all back in if/when someone agreed to haul it away.

As an aside, the HVAC system is the most complicated thing I've ever seen. I think the best I'll be able to do is maybe use the AC compressor and hope to mate the rest up to the system in the Mini (or to something like a Vintage Air package). If the compressor needs brilliant signals from every component attached and working...I may have to figure something else out. For heat/defrost...I dunno, maybe duct tape a hair dryer under the dash...



 

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I'm just going to drag everything out of the car, then plug it back in, and it will all magically work with a few error messages.[quote/]

Now you have it apart you'll see why this is a pain.

My advice at this stage, get the wheels up in the air and only unplug things that keep it running, checking it starts and drives each time. that way you know exactly what is needed and what isn't. then you can take it out and repeat on the floor/bench.

You'll find things like the key sensors need to be in a certain position.

Btw.... the bulkhead wiring has to go from the inside out. Tje throttle and brake is on the engine loom and needs to pass out from the inside. The dash comes away hole if you unbolt it from next to the door hinges (from the outside behind some caps)

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Looking at the size of the grommet and the size of this, like, junction of two massive cable bundles behind the steering wheel...I don't see how the harness could pass through the bulkhead hole without cutting...I'm gonna wait until I get the HVAC console out and have every wire disconnected before cutting anything, though.

I'm not sure I can remove that metal crossbar, as I think I'll need to retain steering and braking to get this thing safely out of my garage...The way it's parked, I don't have room to open the doors wide enough to unbolt much of anything, I fear, though I could do that outside as a last step.
 

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Now I tell ya hwhat, getting the wiring harness out of the interior of this Leaf is...unrewarding.

If you manage to get the interior and dash removed, the wiring harness does split. Each front door harness can be disconnected, as can the "aft or rear harness." The firewall hole is rather large and just about everything from the interior should pass through into the engine bay. This task may appear very difficult, however it is not as bad as it looks. Just be sure to label things before you disconnect them!


You can do it! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
It all goes a lot quicker once you commit to removing everything. I may have been able to get away with leaving the brace, steering column, and parking brake mount in place, but they weren't hard to remove, and having them out of the way made everything much easier. It also let me pull the whole HVAC cluster (which I probably won't use, but...maybe some bits?).

The brace that the steering column attaches to is a bit of a head-scratcher. There are 2-3 bolts on each side that you can reach by opening the door and removing some rubber caps. The bolts need to be loose and out, but they don't need to be pulled all the way out (the door blocks some).

On the inside, there is a deceptive threaded bolt, but it's only there to act as a spacer. Once all the bolts on the brace are removed (including the steering column), it just lifts up and out. It's not too heavy, but the steering column iswatch out when you loosen the bolts!









The steering column itself is attached in a few places, but primarily there is a long bolt that goes all the way through horizontally (near the blue wire), and two bolts closer to the wheel from which it hangs (with weird shims).



When everything is disconnected, the column will flop down heavily and awkwardly and then rotate collapsed to the floor...It stays fully connected to the rack, and reinstallation is the reverse of removal...but includes fighting gravity. I found it helpful to wedge my knee under it to lift it up into place will I slid the long bolt through. After that, it's easy to get the two "hanger" bolts in place. The knee is key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Here's the glory hole! Everything did fit through to the engine bay, though it does require doing one cable at a time to some degree. They're all attached to each other, of course, so it takes some finagling. I needed functional brakes, so I never disconnected the lines, but I did need to bend one of the brake lines quite a bit to fit the fuse boxes through (all in the engine bay). Luckily I didn't rupture anything doing so.



 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Does anyone know what these connectors are for (by the doors and center)? If it's just taillights and crap, I'll leave them. If I can't figure it out, I'll have to pull out the seats and carpet to free them, and that's a can of worms I'd rather leave closed.



 

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The second picture of the gray plug on the bottom, that is the LBC connector to the battery pack. You need that if you intend to use the majority of the other components as well.
 

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The second picture of the gray plug on the bottom, that is the LBC connector to the battery pack. You need that if you intend to use the majority of the other components as well.


I did forget to mention, to remove those wires, you do need to pull the seats and carpet. Everything runs pretty well hidden throughout side panels and underneath the seats. Some pass through under the center console too.


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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Ah, got it. Bummer. What does it connect to if the motor and charger are in the engine bay??

I guess I'll find out.
 

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Ah, got it. Bummer. What does it connect to if the motor and charger are in the engine bay??

I guess I'll find out.

This manual should help you see which connectors go where.


https://carmanuals2.com/get/nissan-leaf-2013-ev-battery-system-section-evb-47871


The CAN traffic is transmitted across the bus, which all the other modules/nodes are on Like the VCM/BCM/Ect. I'm not terribly CAN savvy so I can't provide detailed specifics but the manual is extremely helpful!
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
At some point I became a bit religious about not cutting the wiring harness, mostly to eliminate variables as I try to get this thing working on a bench, so I went to perhaps greater lengths than needed...If I ever get it running on a bench, I'll try and better catalog what is and isn't needed.

I pulled out the front seats, much of the rear interior, and a fair amount of the headliner and rear bumper...Underneath it all is a black box labeled "CAPACITOR ASSY" which I think is about battery charging, but I really have no idea.



Apart from that, all the wires that go to the back seem to connect to nothing more than taillights and airbags, although I did find one of the smart keyless antennae around the rear seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Leaf teardown is pretty much complete. I was in somewhat of a rush to get it out of my garage/driveway, so I didn't do a great job of documenting the location of the various components. I did take many, many pictures of wire connectors and their colors, and they were extremely valuable when trying to get this set up on a bench.

State of affairs:



The plan is to get charging and the motor working in my "workshop" before removing components, opening the wiring harness, and removing the unnecessary items. I'm just gonna plug everything back in, put it in drive, and see if it spins. I'll probably figure out the details in this thread, as it seems more relevant there.
 

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a black box labeled "CAPACITOR ASSY"

I believe this is actually part of the brake system, to keep power to the brakes in event of main battery failure. I'm pretty sure i got that from the manual but it's been awhile.



although I did find one of the smart keyless antennae around the rear seat.

In the 2015, there was another one in the rear bumper that I rescued before I got rid of the shell.


B
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
In the 2015, there was another one in the rear bumper that I rescued before I got rid of the shell.
Indeed, there was one on my 2014, too! I went back out and pulled the last one off the rear bumperthanks! I feel better having all three blue connectors hooked up. I did notice that the numbers on this third device were different from the other two, but no matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Not much to report...I'm just getting the motor into my "workshop" so I can plug everything in and see if it spins (which requires some disassembly just to make it transportable by humans up stairs).

I found these two videos helpful in figuring out what to do:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GG3QRPGlPc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vo2shfLokCI

The top power module disconnects with a few 13mm bolts pointing upwards around the perimeter, as well as some wires, hoses, odds and ends...Don't forget the two bolts inside that make the giant electrical connection to the inverter...I was able to leave the compressor on, and I see no reason to break the seal for the top cover.

Now I just need to figure out how to wire it up. I've never worked with higher voltage wiring than 12, and I'm exploring what that takes here:

https://www.diyelectriccar.com/foru...voltage-wire-crimp-connectors-and-200199.html





 

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I couldn't get mine to work, either. I reread one of the lists and found that I needed to connect the heater core cable (which I see disconnected under the right corner of your bench) and I think the AC compressor cable. After that, everything worked as expected- the motor turned and accelerated and the batteries charged.



Not sure how that might help, but I figured I would chime in.


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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
I'm wondering if there's a way to cut my battery pack in half for the sake of weight reduction...If I ditched half the Leaf pack, I could lose 200 pounds, improve packaging and weight distribution, and I would still probably clear 50mi of usable real-world miles, which is plenty for me. I'm already way overpowered, so torque loss is no concern.

However, if I cut the battery pack in half, voltage drops to 180-192v, which I understand would only allow my to spin the motor to 5k rpm. This would put my top speed below 40mph which won't much cut it.

Is there any way to step up the voltage without losing too much juice in the process? I'm not too keen on reconfiguring the battery at a sub-module level, and the cells are paralleled at the lowest level.

I looked into other battery packs, and the best I can find is the Tesla/Smart pack that does 1.4v/lb (as compared to the Leaf's 0.9-0.95v/lb). I would need 6-7 of those modules to get to the Leaf's 360-384v operating range, and that would weight 250-300 pounds...A savings of 100-150lb over the Leaf pack, but at a loss of 3-6kWh (still fine)...It mostly means that I'd need to tear apart another salvage car, which I'm not too thrilled about, considering I have half a Leaf sitting on a bench...

Edit: They're actually running 29 modules for ~220V, running 70% max torque (I'm not sure if this is limited by the batteries or the custom controller).
 
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