i agree, this is the type that can be universal enough for most people to use.
Nissan Leaf motor coupler
I want to go with pauls controller and leaf motor,
Has anyone found a Coupler that will fit the leaf output shaft?
I dont really want to spend £600 for the gearbox just to use the shaft out of it.
anyone ??
Thanks
Has anyone found a Coupler that will fit the leaf output shaft?
I dont really want to spend £600 for the gearbox just to use the shaft out of it.
anyone ??
Thanks
101 - 120 of 155 Posts
A friend used Leaf EM61 motor and had splined lovejoy coupler made at old fashion machine shop. It is a perfect fit.
This was procedure:
1. He had to bring in the motor and transmission to the workshop.
2. The technician used sheet metal to make spline teeth negative by hand. Scissors style!
3. Then he used special machine for making grooves to slowly push the metal from the side of the shaft coupler. Well at the time it was just a cylinder of high strength steel.
4. Follows the heat treating.
5. In the end the coupler centers on both sides (transmission has splines also) were press fitted into lovejoy castings. Here material is cast iron and wouldnt withstand heat treatment.
6. The ends were capped at the center by small turned metal cap to keep the coupler from slide back on the splines.
He said those couplers will never be as strong as the shaft which is fine. If something happens a weak link has to go to save the rest of device.
This was procedure:
1. He had to bring in the motor and transmission to the workshop.
2. The technician used sheet metal to make spline teeth negative by hand. Scissors style!
3. Then he used special machine for making grooves to slowly push the metal from the side of the shaft coupler. Well at the time it was just a cylinder of high strength steel.
4. Follows the heat treating.
5. In the end the coupler centers on both sides (transmission has splines also) were press fitted into lovejoy castings. Here material is cast iron and wouldnt withstand heat treatment.
6. The ends were capped at the center by small turned metal cap to keep the coupler from slide back on the splines.
He said those couplers will never be as strong as the shaft which is fine. If something happens a weak link has to go to save the rest of device.
Did you guys notice the coupling in the Rx8 thread? see pictures there
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1051103&postcount=3
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1051103&postcount=3
the shop i had contacted would do it this way as well...too bad Im in California, and the shop was in Tennessee!A friend used Leaf EM61 motor and had splined lovejoy coupler made at old fashion machine shop. It is a perfect fit.
This was procedure:
1. He had to bring in the motor and transmission to the workshop.
2. The technician used sheet metal to make spline teeth negative by hand. Scissors style!
3. Then he used special machine for making grooves to slowly push the metal from the side of the shaft coupler. Well at the time it was just a cylinder of high strength steel.
4. Follows the heat treating.
5. In the end the coupler centers on both sides (transmission has splines also) were press fitted into lovejoy castings. Here material is cast iron and wouldnt withstand heat treatment.
6. The ends were capped at the center by small turned metal cap to keep the coupler from slide back on the splines.
He said those couplers will never be as strong as the shaft which is fine. If something happens a weak link has to go to save the rest of device.
Btu, they were the only shop that seemed willing and able to make the coupler when i was actively researching this.
But, now that you mention it, Im sure there's a shop somewhere nearby that can do this sort of work...so I'll have to be on the lookout.
wow, thats beefy! Do you have the link to the whole thread handy so I can look at it?Did you guys notice the coupling in the Rx8 thread? see pictures there
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1051103&postcount=3
When someone provides a link like that to a single post, just click the link on that page (at least in the normal web browser view) in the upper right corner... in this case, it says "Thread: Electric RX8 by Voltttan".wow, thats beefy! Do you have the link to the whole thread handy so I can look at it?
Hi,
I'm also looking for something to use as a base coupler for the EM57.
There's been a lot of discussion around clutch plates from various vehicles, most notably the Suzuki Samurai.
@Kablammy has summarised what known about the shaft
>> splines: 20 (you already know that)
>> diameter (22mm you know this too)
>> spline width: 1.70mm
>> space between splines: 0.5mm (this was hard to measure, and im not sure if its right)
>> spline length 34.57mm
however, I wanted to minimise the machining, waste and costs associated with purchasing clutch plates as (at least here in New Zealand) they appear quite costly and come with lots of unwanted bits.
to the point: Is there any mechanical reason why something like a "drive shaft slip yoke" wouldn't be a good starter? assuming the correct size match can be found.
eg: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=drive+shaft+slip+yoke
I'm also looking for something to use as a base coupler for the EM57.
There's been a lot of discussion around clutch plates from various vehicles, most notably the Suzuki Samurai.
@Kablammy has summarised what known about the shaft
>> splines: 20 (you already know that)
>> diameter (22mm you know this too)
>> spline width: 1.70mm
>> space between splines: 0.5mm (this was hard to measure, and im not sure if its right)
>> spline length 34.57mm
however, I wanted to minimise the machining, waste and costs associated with purchasing clutch plates as (at least here in New Zealand) they appear quite costly and come with lots of unwanted bits.
to the point: Is there any mechanical reason why something like a "drive shaft slip yoke" wouldn't be a good starter? assuming the correct size match can be found.
eg: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=drive+shaft+slip+yoke
Guys, knock yourselves out experimenting with drives-shaft yokes and such... But when you decide your ready for a clutch disc spline thats a 99% match [100% match IMHO] for the Nissan Leaf output shaft spline, please find it here:
[BTW the part SKU# is: 4304548]
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-4...wagon-sedan-all-w1438cc-1968-71-1500-new.aspx
[BTW the part SKU# is: 4304548]
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-4...wagon-sedan-all-w1438cc-1968-71-1500-new.aspx
Thanks mainsource, that looks to be a pretty good. If I go that route I'll certainly go with your recommendation.Guys, knock yourselves out experimenting with drives-shaft yokes and such... But when you decide your ready for a clutch disc spline thats a 99% match [100% match IMHO] for the Nissan Leaf output shaft spline, please find it here:
[BTW the part SKU# is: 4304548]
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-4...wagon-sedan-all-w1438cc-1968-71-1500-new.aspx
I've not given up on the slip yokes yet. mainly since they appear to be designed for the job. ie. slip fit with a long contact length - better to take the forces etc.
I am/was concerned with rotational speeds and balance. There's a big different (~8x) between motor and axle speeds. Plus I've yet to find one that appears to be a good match. I'm no mechanic and also mostly think/visualise in metric where-as most of the ones I've found appear to be for the american market/vehicles; at least on the sites I've visited so far.
Addendum to my last post: I happen to have the benefit/ luxury of both the retro Fiat and Suzuki Jimny clutch disc centres in my possession. As a result, I feel qualified to make the following statement: After a trial fit of both centres, there is sooo much slop in the fit of the Suzuki spline, that it cannot even be considered as a worthy contestant in this race. I consider it a fool hardy experiment to select same as a solution for the Nissan Leaf output spline! Meanwhile, the Midwest Bayless unit I posted earlier, can be considered a PERFECT [100%] FIT!!
The length of a typical clutch disk spline is not in question here. This will not be an issue.I've not given up on the slip yokes yet. mainly since they appear to be designed for the job. ie. slip fit with a long contact length - better to take the forces etc.
I just ordered one of these today. I had a pretty thorough design to use a modified Leaf transaxle but rather than destroy it and weld it into an axle assembly, I think it will be easier to cut out this clutch center and use it instead. I'll let y'all know how it goes!Guys, knock yourselves out experimenting with drives-shaft yokes and such... But when you decide your ready for a clutch disc spline thats a 99% match [100% match IMHO] for the Nissan Leaf output shaft spline, please find it here:
[BTW the part SKU# is: 4304548]
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-4...wagon-sedan-all-w1438cc-1968-71-1500-new.aspx
Once you have the clutch disc attached...Then what? What transmissions would the Fiat plate work with?Meanwhile, the Midwest Bayless unit I posted earlier, can be considered a PERFECT [100%] FIT!!
Great info, thank you!Addendum to my last post: I happen to have the benefit/ luxury of both the retro Fiat and Suzuki Jimny clutch disc centres in my possession. As a result, I feel qualified to make the following statement: After a trial fit of both centres, there is sooo much slop in the fit of the Suzuki spline, that it cannot even be considered as a worthy contestant in this race. I consider it a fool hardy experiment to select same as a solution for the Nissan Leaf output spline! Meanwhile, the Midwest Bayless unit I posted earlier, can be considered a PERFECT [100%] FIT!!
What I plan to do is take that Fiat clutch plate to a lathe and cut out the center ("clutch center") then press fit and weld that clutch center into another piece of metal to make my motor coupler. The Fiat clutch center slides over the Nissan Leaf motor output and the other end of the metal tube which houses the Fiat clutch center can be adapted to whatever is going on at the transmission end of the coupler.Once you have the clutch disc attached...Then what? What transmissions would the Fiat plate work with?
It seems that many people take a clutch center designed for their transmission and put that into the other end of the coupler which eliminates the clutch and flywheel. I plan to use a clutch, so the other end of my motor coupler will interface with my flywheel.
I'll post some drawings once I've got the part in-hand to measure and hopefully it helps others to get their parts made too
Drill out those 3 rivets on the spring plate and you may not need any lathe work.
"Drill out those 3 rivets on the spring plate and you may not need any lathe work."
Sanding/ grinding/ drifting seems to work even better!
Sanding/ grinding/ drifting seems to work even better!
CanEV makes couplers for electric motors. Why not make an adapter that takes the splined output of the leaf motor and convert it to a keyed brushless shaft? There are adapters that can adapt the face to a warp 9 or Curtis motor face with a bearing, so then a standard CanEV kit would work to mount the leaf to any CanEV supported transmission.
So, has anybody figured out the Leaf motor spline's engineering specs yet so a proper coupling can be fabbed?
Negative, but here are some loose buckets of additional info:
101 - 120 of 155 Posts
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