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I have one of the Electro Automotive VW Beetle adapter plates I bought with my EV conversion. Its on a 1974 beetle transmission. Everything works great, except I have absolutely no clutch action at all. I just put in a new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throw out bearing and motor mounts but still no clutch action when I press the pedal (same as before I did those replacements with the original setup from the previous owner). I have the clutch cable adjusted to almost the end of the threads. I checked the "magic number" distance when I had it apart and I _believe_ I got it correct. Anything else I might have missed or done wrong?

2019-06-26 19.17.45.jpg

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OK, let's run down the potential clutch problems. First off, if you could photograph all of the separated parts, we might spot something.

Is the disc in backwards? Some can be put in the wrong way. Has your coupling on the motor shaft slipped out of position? Simple set screw type couplings are very prone to doing this. Does the coupling have some way of transferring the force of the clutch action to the inner race of the motor output shaft bearing, like it should? The motor output bearing is usually secured in the motor end bell with a snap ring or a screwed down plate. Has this come loose?
 

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I had the same issue with my bug. I'm using a taper lock coupling and it was too far down on the motor shaft. The resolution was all trial and error. I adjusted the clutch cable about mid way and used different shims to space the coupling away from the motor. It was a pain in the a$$ and took 3 tries. Good luck!
 

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I have one of the Electro Automotive VW Beetle adapter plates I bought with my EV conversion. Its on a 1974 beetle transmission. Everything works great, except I have absolutely no clutch action at all. I just put in a new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throw out bearing and motor mounts but still no clutch action when I press the pedal (same as before I did those replacements with the original setup from the previous owner). I have the clutch cable adjusted to almost the end of the threads. I checked the "magic number" distance when I had it apart and I _believe_ I got it correct. Anything else I might have missed or done wrong?
End of the threads sounds like the Bowden tube needs to be longer. Shims under the back should give a set amount of sag. The proper adjustment is in any bug manual.
 

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Different question: which end of the adjuster thread? The drivers side means the cable is too long, the other end means the clutch is the problem. Do you have the forks on the mechanism going the correct way?

Picture of the tranny minus motor/adapter and cable would help
 
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