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No Power to AC35

1K views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  67BGTEV 
#1 ·
As many if you know my running conversion was doing well, that is until I gave it for Paint spray.
While it sat in the garage, I had switched off the 12V going in to the motor and the shop guy did leave the Ign Key to ON. This kept the DC-DC conv running for about 2 or 3 weeks and drained 4 batteries completely. When I charged the Pack, those 4 batteries really were bloated.
In the meanwhile, the +terminal (~100V) of the battery was shorted to the Alum Battery shell, in turn the Body of the car. Luckily, the -ve terminal was not shorted, so the car and the shop didn't blow-up.

When this happened, the components inside the controller went bad, it threw error code 41, 45, 69. I sent to to HPEV and they confirmed controller was bad and recommended to send it FSIP. Now the controller is back, when I reconnected everything, no more error messages, nice flashing yellow lights on the controller. No error message in the Programming app. When I press accelerator, the Throttle shows varying Voltage, as I continue to press the PB8 with Hall Effect.
But no power to the motor. It shows motor temp (15c), RPM (obviously 0), but it doesn't spin. I'm lost. I'll call HPEVS tomorrow (hope they are open). Both Bill and Brian are very helpful through out. Its been a pleasure working with them.. Thanks guys!!!

In the meanwhile, I want to see if you have any suggestions for me to try out for my current situation of no-power to the motor.:confused:
 
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#3 ·
What voltages are your other cells reading? Did you load test them?

When your batteries drop below a certain voltage threshold, it reaches the point of no return. It might not read ZERO volts like the 4 confirmed dead ones, but they still could be dead.

I experimented with trying to revive some LIPO cells that my friend left discharging for weeks on a parasitic circuit. LiCoO2 has a higher nominal voltage, but I believe they function similarly when over-discharged. The ones I tried to repair ranged from 1.5-2v

I attempted all possible charging methods to revive them:
Low CC charging did nothing (0.1-1C rate)
Regular 1-2C charge rates would show the cell voltage increase, then it would fall back to "dead" quickly after pulling it off the charger.
High current (5C+ charging served only to rapidly generate heat within the cell. The voltage would read higher, but it was only temporary and dropped down to dead.

I believe there is some kind of chemical process that happens which permanently increases the internal resistance to the point where the thing is useless. The bulging from your 0V cells was because nearly all of the energy of that charger was going to heat within the battery.
 
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