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1994 Skidoo Tundra snomobile conversion
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone out there in electric vehicle land.

Just joined the forum, though I've perused the posts for awhile to garner answers during my snomobile build. I'm recently retired, and the snomo conversion has provided a great covid era project. The fabrication required has helped hone my welding and machining skills, and the research required has exercised my brain. All in all an amazingly fun project.

Just finished it a couple of weeks ago. I've been putting it through the paces and have figured out what I'd do differently next time, I'm sure I'll do this again. (And a maybe a light truck as soon as I can put my hands on the right vehicle for the right price.) I haven't done a range test yet, that's coming next (wanted to get the bugs out close to the shop so I didn't get stranded miles from anywhere). My SWAG is about 20 miles.

Credit Where Credit is Due department:
1. This forum
2. The engineering team at UofA Fairbanks for the paper they published outlining the snomobile build they did for the 2011 CLean Snowmobile Challenge.
3. John Whelan of Plasma Boy Racing--He gave me some advice about batteries as well as the confidence that I was on the right track at a critical moment.

A little about the build:
The chassis is a 1994 Tundra, gifted by a friend. It's got the virtues of being light and simple. I got the motor, an ADC XP-1283 off Ebay for a couple hundred bucks--it was cheap because of a tapered driveshaft I think. I finally found an adapter for the driveshaft (same taper as some Honda ICE's) in Northern England, though I had to do some mods to the adapter. The rest of the drivetrain is a small diameter cast iron Baldor pulley, then a BX series belt to a larger steel pulley on the sprocket shaft--since the sprocket shaft end is splined, I had to grind off the teeth of the original drive sprocket, enlarge the hole in a no hub pulley and weld the old sprocket to the pulley. That assembly then went on the end of the splined sprocket shaft.

I used a Kelly 400amp controller, emailing back and forth to China to be sure I got what I wanted and the controller pre-programmed the way I wanted it. It's all powered by a 72 volt 24S string of Fortune 60 Ah batteries inside a 16 gauge steel containment box I built, with a voltmeter mounted to the box and an ammeter on the dash.

I used an EV500 contactor with a small dc/dc converter to feed it 12V with the keyswitch. I also used the dc/dc converter to feed the light circuit, on a switch so as not to use the battery unless I turned it on (in the dark).

I'll try to get some pics up soon, they haven't been uploaded from my camera to this computer yet

Thanks to everyone whose posts I read while figuring everything out.......
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