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ok to mount Chevy Volt batteries upside down?

1595 Views 28 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Functional Artist
I'm exploring ways I might be able to mount modules from the Chevy Volt pack. Fitting them together with their shape may require me to mount some of the modules upside down. Based on the internals of the battery and particularly the cooling loops, I wouldn't think this would make a difference, but, I wanted to check with folks. Could there be any issues with installing this upside down with regards to their original orientation in the Chevy Volt?
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yeah... no shortage of superiority around here. I think swogm understood that using an alternative connector would mean you would need to make your own retention mechanism because the existing retention mechanism wouldn't fit... not that you would just plug them in without one.

that video is interesting because all of the connectors he used in there are factory... didn't seem to help. Hopefully the new wiring mechanism they did in the Gen2 volt battery will help mitigate that scenario.
I think swogm understood that using an alternative connector would mean you would need to make your own retention mechanism because the existing retention mechanism wouldn't fit... not that you would just plug them in without one.
You can't just assume something like that
...or leave a "gray area" like that for others to come along & find

Remy is (lets say, high strung but, IMO means well)
...& a couple of the reasons why he is so adamant about this is:

1.) the wires in that BMS connector are directly connected to the cells
...& "if" shorted can put out "all she's got capt'n" :oops:
...so, not something to "think outside of the box" with too much

* I have some stock Gen 1 Chevy Volt BMS connectors
...PM me & I'll send you one ;)

that video is interesting because all of the connectors he used in there are factory... didn't seem to help.
2.) IMO Damien's fire (concentrated in the BMS connector) was caused by water &/or coolant getting into the BMS connector &/or receptacle (similar to the Chevy Volt test vehicle that caught fire)

Here are a couple of videos I made contemplating Damien's situation (if anyone is interested)


Hopefully the new wiring mechanism they did in the Gen2 volt battery will help mitigate that scenario.
Damiens car & the test vehicle are the only Gen 1 Chevy Volts, that I have ever heard of, that experienced this "issue"
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NO RETENTION MECHANISM for the Molex.

So, no, it doesn't beat taking the covers off and measuring each cell:

Right now I have no bms
but like to check the cell voltage every-once in awhile
taking all the covers off are a pain
maybe one day be nice to get a bms
if I can get enough plugs and retention devices and a good bms or equalizer
have battery’s set up front and in the back seat/hatch of old lectric lepord


on another car I have burnt out Chinese bms because 400amp burn them out even if rated for it
so I just use the equalizer and blue tooth

open to any ideas
cheers
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Even 3d printing a copy of the connector shell is better than no retention at all, though even there the materials will be sketchy. You can't do glass fill or flame retardation easily.
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yeah... no shortage of superiority around here.
I'm not the one out of my wheelhouse violating The Prime Directive with suggestions that have no caveats or warnings or that has the "expert" Youtube channel

Dunning-Kruger. Everything becomes namecalling and personal when your pants are around your ankles in terms of subject matter knowledge. I've been doing and learning this shit for over half a century...think you can catch up?

Yes, superior. Deal with it and learn. You are not an expert. You should not toss shit out there until your audience is fully aware of the shortcomings. If someone is aware of the shortcomings you are not, yes, dear snowflake, they are superior.

Recall that YOU were the one using both hands on a live EV battery to measure voltage...everybody watching your shit will do the same. That technique can be lethal.

"It works, good-enough", a Molex non-interchange solution you invited as a poser-expert, does not work when people plan to be fucking with nonfused wiring on a 2000 amp power source. Luckily for you, it seems this fellow is looking at everything vs being a disciple.
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Caveat emptor should apply to the sharing of information on an amateur forum though. Or anywhere, really, unless the source has specifically identified themselves as a subject matter expert and you have entered into a contract with said person. The first three letters of this website's domain name should indicate the level of faith to put into information shared here. At least, to any reasonable person. I guess the problem is the people who don't fall into that category...
If you understand this:
Font Screenshot Number Event

Then you understand how people choose who they regard as experts, knowledgeable, and credible.

It's interesting to watch - it almost always ends up as:

a) "he hurt my feelings"
b) "he's superior/arrogant when I know I know my stuff"
c) "he doesn't support my conclusion, so I'm picking the person's posting that does"
d) "I don't think that will happen to me"
e) "that costs too much"
f) "A guy on Youtube said otherwise"
g) "someone said something might work, which I think will, so am done and am moving on to other stuff"
h) "I'm never going to crash this car"
i) "I have a better idea than 100,000 automotive engineers before me"
j) "I now know enough to do this and don't have the time/motivation to learn it in any depth"
k) "The comments section on my youtube channel will point out my mistakes and erroneous procedures/thinking"
l) "block him, he's an a-hole"
m) "I got nuthin', so let's get him on "hands-on" stuff he rarely talks about, but strangely seems to know - must be in a book somewhere and my three hours in my garage trumps dat chit"
o) "I don't like the answers here, so I'll shop it around to OIF, Reddit, etc until I get the answer I want to hear"
p) "I don't like Player A so always side with Player B"
q) "Please moderator, ban him cuz he sounds mean by cutting to the facts"
r) "I'm just here to have my own problem solved, will take every response as to me directly, and will disappear as soon as I get the answer I want to hear"
s) "Let's take it to PM because challenging ideas and facts in the open is a waste of my time when all I want is an answer for my project"
t) "The 1990 book I bought on conversion off Amazon says to do it this way, so who the heck are these forum clowns pushing lithium (they must be....they stated some facts I don't like about LiFePO/Pb, etc) and "AC" motors?"
u) "I'm going to take baby steps to learn and use i) a smaller pack ii) a lower voltage iii) multiple battery boxes to add more later, iv) use lead acid batteries; and ignore everyone here saying it will cost more, perform poorly, and double my build time"
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Right now I have no bms
but like to check the cell voltage every-once in awhile
taking all the covers off are a pain
maybe one day be nice to get a bms
if I can get enough plugs and retention devices and a good bms or equalizer
have battery’s set up front and in the back seat/hatch of old lectric lepord


on another car I have burnt out Chinese bms because 400amp burn them out even if rated for it
so I just use the equalizer and blue tooth

open to any ideas
cheers
Here is an exerpt from one of my builds.

"All BMS's are Battery Monitoring Systems
...& they all connected to (each cell)
...& monitor each cell, individually

There are (2) main types of BMS's
...Passive (Battery Monitoring System)
...Active (Battery Managment System)

A Passive BMS is just a monitoring system
...that "passes" the information to the user
...& the user must make the decisions
...& then, "act" upon them decisions (if & when, necessary)

An Active BMS monitors the pack
...but also, has the ability to "act"
...& "switch" things "On &/or Off (if & when, it deems it necessary)

Like:
Under-Voltage protection (Low Voltage cut-off)
Over-Voltage Protection (High Voltage cut-off)
Over Current Protection (High Amp draw cut-off)
Temperature Protection (High or low temp cut-off)
Balance Protection (Individual Cell Balancing)


So, whether to use a BMS is not the question
IMO if your using a Lithium battery you should monitor it (at the very least) ;)

The question is, does the specific battery pack being used, need (or would it be best to use) an Active BMS
...or a Passive BMS?"

Here is a video showing how I monitor the individual cell (groups) in my Chevy Volt modules
...& shows the "wiring description" of the Chevy Volt BMS connector
...& also, how I connected the cell "checkers" to the Chevy Volt BMS connector
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