I was concerned that I was exceeding that amps spec a little. I'm comforted by this: "Max Current 1000 Amps Continuous With Liquid Cooling" - EVWestZilla 1k:
· Maximum Battery Current at 200V: 950 Amps = 190kW
· Maximum Battery Current at 300V: 885 Amps = 266kW
· Maximum Battery Current at 400V: 800 Amps = 320kW
So, yeah, looks like running the two packs in parallel for 395V 860A would be best?
Wow, that's incredibly helpful, thank you. Yeah, the current Mustang's suspension does look pretty complicated. And the example options are really great.The current Mustang is a bit challenging as a donor when using the hub carriers / uprights / knuckles, because they are designed to work with the car's "integral link" suspension design.
That makes sense, that's great, thanks. So if a Miata diff can handle extremely roughly 250 ft-lbs, and weighs about 2372 pounds, and mine ends up weighing 1500 pounds, then if I used Miata tires it could handle roughly 395 ft-lbs. But I'm using much larger tires. But the Miata has a transmission. They mostly break in second gear, which is 2.991:1 reduction.When you are worrying about the diff remember that in the donor the torque is multiplied by the gearbox
The limit on the torque is the amount of grip your tyres have
A Miata is about 1200 kg - my Device is a bit heavy at 800 kg - if you have half the weight then you are limited to half the torque
Correct, except that you'll have far more than 330 lb-ft at the axles (even a HyPer 9's torque multiplied by a typical ring-and-pinion ratio is several times that); did you mean 330 lb-ft at the pinion shaft (into the final drive/diff)? As far as the final drive is concerned, it doesn't matter if a transmission is used or not... just how much torque is applied to the final drive input.I'm having difficulty wrapping my brain around how much the transmission thing matters. If you're getting 330 ft-lbs at the ground both ways (ICE with gearbox, electric without), the input torque at the diff would need to be the same with both, right? So the gear reduction = increase in torque at the transmission isn't relevant?
Presumably what this means is that it produces over 340 lb-ft of torque at the engine output, as estimated from measurement at the tires by a dynamometer... which really means that the measured total axle torque, divided by the final drive ratio (3.6 in this case), and divided by the gear ratio used in the test, equals over 340 lb-ft. That's double the stock torque of any non-turbo Miata/MX5, so I assume that this is a modified or swapped engine. In first gear that's more than the weight of the car in drive force at the tire contact patches.My Miata makes over 340ft-lbs at the wheels and the rear end has held up fine (ICE).
I have a 3.6:1 in mine with a 6-speed so it's geared for 170 MPH
Yeah, I keep seeing Duncan mentioning his being 800 kg = 1764 pounds, and thinking there's no reason mine would weigh less than that plus another Chevy Volt battery pack, totalling 2196 pounds = 996kg. Slightly more than the first gen (heavier) Miata.(1500 pounds.... but it's not likely to be that light)
Thanks, I'd love to get measurements from you of what space you took to fully plumb and wire them. It would be really nice to be able to make a first pass at a frame before buying the batteries.When you throw away all of the clutter a Chevy Volt Battery is 152 Kg - 336 lbs - I have 133Kg of batteries - my batteries are all on the floor -
I have one of the two 1 kWh modules + three of the seven 2 kWh modules as a single "lump" - and two "lumps" under the bonnet - leaving one 2kWh module left over
if the chassis had been a bit longer I could have fitted four 2 kWh modules on one side and three 2 kWh + two 1 kWh modules on the other
You can double stack the batteries but that would raise the height of the center of mass
At 800 kg my car is a bit overbuilt - also my motor is 102 kg - If I rebuilt it I would hope to lose 100 kg
Wonderful, thank you! Double that 317mm also fits in the space I've been modelling!So in total from the floor
About 22 mm for the mountings
275 mm for the modules
20 mm for the BMS wiring
That doesn't quite fit. I'll have to re-check cell counts, since I'm putting some in the back for weight balance.If my space had been 120 mm longer then I would have been able to squeeze the whole 16 kWh - rather than the 14 kWh that I did