[remy_martian]

I found some more info in my phone's collection. Not sure who to credit for it:

Again, missing some dimensions...

 

[piotrsko]

If you're intent on running a leaf motor, perhaps you should use a brain transplanted leaf controller or spoof the inputs. Openinverter, or Damien?

 

[jbush]

If it's helpful, I run my 81 124 Spider with an 8" ADC (essentially similar to a netgain warp 8, I think, if you can't find ADC specs - it's a 203-06-4001 if memory serves).
It's running at 156v (a little hotter than usual, essentially because my that's what my controller maxes out at) and really seems to be the sweet spot in terms of everything. It's a little underpowered on steep grades, but some of that is to be expected when using these lower voltages. Pretty peppy the rest of the time, I mean it's no tesla but it will respond if I get into the pedal and definitely puts the power in the 0-40mph range, feels very snappy before it trails off and probably starts to lag behind what an ICE fiat would be doing. The 8" at that voltage feels like a good mix of power and rpm vs weight/size.

Is it similar to this one? Advanced D.C. Motors 75194 Forklift Motor A90-4002 | eBay

I'm curious how you coupled the motor output shaft to the transmission. Did you keep the clutch and flywheel or do a direct connection? How did you fabricate the coupler? This is the part that is giving me the most trouble right now. Also, is the motor attached to the motor mounts on the crossmember?

I had looked into using a metal 3D printing service to fabricate the coupler, but after doing a bunch of PLA test prints and researching, I think the anisotropic shrinkage of the prints is going to make it very hard to get it to fit on a spline shaft. Even making test metal prints with these services is slow and expensive. I've also considered just welding something into the motor output shaft, but am a bit concerned that the heat could damage the motor.

Your car is very cool!

 

[remy_martian]

Hey Mr Expensive 3d Print Service,

You could have your coupler...machined

You don't say what motor you are using. @Bratitude has the motor end of the Leaf coupler already machined.

From there, most homebrewers do some kind adaptation of their clutch hub, though a good number have machine shops fab the piece.

And, yeah...there's a place for 3d printed metal and machined fits ain't it. Unless, you machine it later, then what's the point vs billet?

 

[jbush]

Hey Mr Expensive 3d Print Service,

You could have your coupler...machined

From there, most homebrewers do some kind adaptation of their clutch hub, though a good number have machine shops fab the piece.

😂


Yeah, I'm realizing that, any way I go, I'm probably going to need the services of a machine shop. As I understand, even the Bratitude couplers at a minimum require some work on the lathe to get the length and the clutch center diameter correct. I had been avoiding working with a shop, as I thought it might be a bit expensive, but I should try to find a local one.

 

[Duncan]

Thanks for all of the responses, this is helpful! It's nice to see a few other 124 conversions mentioned here.

The 124 wasn't a super high performance car. I have a '78, which came with a non-fuel-injected 1.8L engine, generating out about 84 hp and 90 ft-lbs of torque. My first requirement is something that works . In all seriousness, perfect is the enemy of the good, and my primary aim is to have a fun project and learn about cars. I want to get something I can drive around and not just have a hunk of metal sitting in the garage. Ideally, this would be something that is fun to drive and peppy for short trips around town on level ground.

My original plan was to use a LEAF motor with the EVBMW control board in a Prius inverter. This seemed to be a good compromise between performance and cost, and there was something amusing about putting Frankenstein components from two kinda boring cars in an Italian sports car. Alas, I got the EVBMW board web interface working, but it is very finicky and keeps reporting errors, so I ran out of patience with it.






However, I've called all of the junkyards and forklift repair shops locally and haven't been able to find a forklift motor.

I have had zero success calling junkyards and repair shops

You need to find out who repairs forklifts and visit them with a pocket of cash and a 24 pack of beer
You need to speak to the guys who actually repair the fork lifts - they will have a couple of motors "just in case"

Also they stopped making DC forklifts about 15 years ago - so you need the old ones - the sort of place that mends OLD stuff not some swanky new dealer

Spline Coupler - you are better off finding a female spline and then modifying or adapting that

Sources - a lot of forklift motors have brakes on the other end - that brake will have a female spline - tractor shops!! - all sorts of weird things with male and female splines - they are usually the sort of place where they will let you nip in and out to the motor in your boot checking the fit

 

[djbills]

Hey! Yes that motor is similar but there were so many iterations and all have their purpose, so you'd definitely want to eyeball the specs closely. For comparison, I just can't tell from the badge on it if it says 206-06-4001 or 206-66-4001. But one of those and surely that info is out there and will give you the vague range that I'm calling the "sweet spot." The more modern motors like the netgain Hyper 9 and all of those are still kind of in the ballpark, just more efficient. My guess is a smaller motor like the prestolite 7" I have in my little electravan would be too underpowered for a spider and it would drag.

Mine is mated with an adapter plate to the clutch - attaching it's diagram as an example, in that language that only machinists seem to understand. I know I don't!

Yes clutch and all that are intact. You can do direct drive, but it requires a lot more voltage to pull it off. Most of the production cars are what, like 360v or so? Honestly that's probably a good ballpark to be in if you're doing direct drive. At least mid 200's, I'd reckon, if you want any chance against hilly areas and inclines.

My setup is essentially limited by the max voltage of the controller (at 156v) but it feels great for a car with gears, and I mean it's not ripping through the hills but it's standable. But you can certainly design around like a Zilla 1k HV controller and the sky's the limit, can throw a lot more voltage at things if that's the way you wanna go.

The shift points on some of the conversions can be a little different and some decide to skip first gear and start in 2nd, but honestly the Fiat transmission feels good with my setup and relatively "normal." I actually use 1st up to about 15mph and it's a lot more gentle of a start, seems happier. I have also seen some of the racers using a transmission from a 131, which I might try if mine ever completely eats it.

I don't have a tach but you can watch your voltage draws to sort of determine when to shift and when there'd be an efficiency gain from going up a gear. Redline is still a thing but you can honestly just kind of do that by ear if you don't have a tach, and I don't feel like I ever really get close, seems to be lots of headroom. You don't downshift or engine brake, just throw it in neutral and brake as needed. You will go through brake pads a little more than a gas car but oh well. This is where a little regen drag can be helpful, but usually that's more of an AC system thing. (technically can be done with DC but it's not really worth it or recommended)

Not sure what all else I can say about it. Clutch/gears at 156v with an 8" ADC has been very good to me!

 

[Larrybia]

You may want to check out my thread. 1976 Fiat Spider 124 EV Conversion I expect just minimal performance with the ME1003 motor 6.4 Kw continuous and 20Kw peak with 72v. Very simple to interface mechanically and electrically. Simple controller from Curtis. Doing this just to get the car up and running so I can register and a learning (Hands On) experience. This is Phase 2 and should be under test next couple of weeks. Phase 1 was with a very small 24v winch motor. Got about 10 mph on 36 v and 200 amps max. Quickly over heater the motor. Phase 1 verified interfaces. Phase 3 will proceed (Big Bucks) with probably 38Kw ME1302 motor and LiFePo batteries. This should be a practical road and highway vehicle with acceptable performance. This three phase approach will cost me about $1K more but I will know what I am doing and know what the performance (seat of the pants) before I spend the big bucks. May also be able to sell the motors and controllers or use in some other project.

 

[jbush]

You may want to check out my thread. 1976 Fiat Spider 124 EV Conversion

Wow, amazing progress! I love your scrappy approach.

 

[remy_martian]

The ADC produces 28kW continuous and around 70kW peak, iirc, so not sure what your pipsqueak golf cart 6.4kW motor has to do with any of this.

The ADC is ADEQUATE for cars up to 2500lb or so. 6.4kW is useless for anything but a gokart or minibike.

Putting too small of a pack or motor in a car is a total waste of time and money. You can chalk it up to "learning", and "see if it'll move", but it's a complete waste, imo, and is not an example of how it's done like you're trying to paint it here. I seriously doubt any government agency would register a car for road use that cannot maintain road speeds.

 

[jbush]

Okay, I got a new motor. Better?

It's about 125# (including the brake, which I'm planning on removing), and 9" in diameter in the main portion. This was fairly inexpensive ($250), but the freight shipping cost was more than the motor. 😂

 

[remy_martian]

You're hiding the nameplate, because....?

 

[piotrsko]

You're hiding the nameplate, because....?

Maybe because it's a 9" stocker motor making perhaps 50hp on HV on a good day?
It is rather handsome looking and clean.