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298 Posts
I need to make the Orion waterproof - more waterproof anyway.
A while back, I emailed Ewart asking about the thermal bonding inside the Orion - essentially asking if the components were thermally bonded to the casing, or if they rely on convection cooling to transfer heat to the casing. This determines how I approach the waterproofing.
Unfortunately, I didn't receive a reply and could not find any answers on line - so I decided to void my warranty and have a look! I figured that would be better than risk cooking it which would likely void the warranty anyway.
You can see they've used a (pink) thermal transfer pad to link the components on the bottom PCB to the face of the box where the heatsink attaches.
For me, that's good news because it means I can use something like Raytech Magic Gel to seal the whole thing, including connectors & wiring without it interrupting the heat flow to the casing.
It means also that just bolting it down to a cool surface via the flange with bolt holes will probably not provide sufficient cooling without the heatsink and airflow over it.
I wish someone made an IP rated BMS - but I cannot find anything other than Chinese ones on eBay - and I'm not going to trust the pack to one of them!
I hope this might be useful to some of you in future.
A while back, I emailed Ewart asking about the thermal bonding inside the Orion - essentially asking if the components were thermally bonded to the casing, or if they rely on convection cooling to transfer heat to the casing. This determines how I approach the waterproofing.
Unfortunately, I didn't receive a reply and could not find any answers on line - so I decided to void my warranty and have a look! I figured that would be better than risk cooking it which would likely void the warranty anyway.
You can see they've used a (pink) thermal transfer pad to link the components on the bottom PCB to the face of the box where the heatsink attaches.
For me, that's good news because it means I can use something like Raytech Magic Gel to seal the whole thing, including connectors & wiring without it interrupting the heat flow to the casing.
It means also that just bolting it down to a cool surface via the flange with bolt holes will probably not provide sufficient cooling without the heatsink and airflow over it.
I wish someone made an IP rated BMS - but I cannot find anything other than Chinese ones on eBay - and I'm not going to trust the pack to one of them!
I hope this might be useful to some of you in future.