Hi
Our school-project is nearing the end.
Our VW Beetle is fully built up, and we even tested it with the old electric Clark forklift-motor and pot.
It's got two 110Ah battery-packs for a total of 220Ah and 48V. We are using a Curtis 1205 Controller (http://curtisinstruments.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Products.DownloadPDF&file=1204_05.pdf).
We realized that the motor didn't have enough power for the car to go through registration, so the teacher bought us this Manta motor.
This motor only has two contact-points (the clark motor had 4) and weighs in at like 1/4th of the clark-motor's weight, but supposedly has 10 horsepower (more than the old clark-motor).
How do we connect this to the Curtis controller that seems to need cables for the armature and stuff too?
Another issue we think was with the pot. meter. At full "throttle" the motor didn't turn at all, while the peak speed was at mid-throttle.
As we pushed the pedal in from zero, speed increased up untill we passed mid-throttle when the speed started decreasing to a full stop at full throttle.
Also, at the peak (mid-throttle) the motor got only 20V.
Whem measuring the resistance of two of the pot. meter wires, we found it gave less and less resistance up to the mid-point and then started giving more and more resistance towards "full throttle". We tore out the old circuitry in the Clark pot-box and put in a new unit (0-5 kiloOhms), which was nothing but a cylindrical piece with three contact-points and a small axle.
When looking at the Curtis-diagram, it seems as if it is meant to work with two-wire pot.metres, while ours has three (not including the microswitch).
When we tested the motor again (actually both the clark truck-motor and the new pancake-one from ebay) they only recieved 3V from the controller.
How the heck do we make this work? Is this new motor even compatible with the controller? Is the pot compatible with the controller, having three wires and all (it doesn't work with just two)?
"What do"?
-Daniel
Our school-project is nearing the end.
Our VW Beetle is fully built up, and we even tested it with the old electric Clark forklift-motor and pot.
It's got two 110Ah battery-packs for a total of 220Ah and 48V. We are using a Curtis 1205 Controller (http://curtisinstruments.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Products.DownloadPDF&file=1204_05.pdf).
We realized that the motor didn't have enough power for the car to go through registration, so the teacher bought us this Manta motor.
This motor only has two contact-points (the clark motor had 4) and weighs in at like 1/4th of the clark-motor's weight, but supposedly has 10 horsepower (more than the old clark-motor).
How do we connect this to the Curtis controller that seems to need cables for the armature and stuff too?
Another issue we think was with the pot. meter. At full "throttle" the motor didn't turn at all, while the peak speed was at mid-throttle.
As we pushed the pedal in from zero, speed increased up untill we passed mid-throttle when the speed started decreasing to a full stop at full throttle.
Also, at the peak (mid-throttle) the motor got only 20V.
Whem measuring the resistance of two of the pot. meter wires, we found it gave less and less resistance up to the mid-point and then started giving more and more resistance towards "full throttle". We tore out the old circuitry in the Clark pot-box and put in a new unit (0-5 kiloOhms), which was nothing but a cylindrical piece with three contact-points and a small axle.
When looking at the Curtis-diagram, it seems as if it is meant to work with two-wire pot.metres, while ours has three (not including the microswitch).
When we tested the motor again (actually both the clark truck-motor and the new pancake-one from ebay) they only recieved 3V from the controller.
How the heck do we make this work? Is this new motor even compatible with the controller? Is the pot compatible with the controller, having three wires and all (it doesn't work with just two)?
"What do"?
-Daniel

