Patrick Roth's zx2EV project

PatricioIN said:

Did someone say Christmas?!?.. but uh.. should I be concerned that it says 72-96v when I have a 120v system planned?

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Nice motor! No, you shouldn't be concerned at all about the voltage label. My ADC K99-4007 says 48 volts, but the motor is designed for up to 96 volts, which is what I am going to use it at.

PatricioIN said:

should I be concerned that it says 72-96v when I have a 120v system planned?

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SHINY!... No, no need to be concerned at all. Some people put well beyond 120v into these motors. The more volts, the more amps, the less lifetime of wear items, but 120v is no issue for that motor.

No problem at all. Some use 144 volt systems with that (very nice) motor. Also remember that the harder you push the car, the more voltage drop you will see. There's nothing wrong with anticipating that drop by using slightly higher system voltage and its common practice to do exactly that.

well the motor and transmission are off to the machinist for the coupler..

more videos and info updated on webpage, click cardomain link below

will 25 amps be enough for the car????? are you using AC? My car bare bones with lights on heater fan on and a blinker will draw 32 + amps,,, as long as you are not there very long and the 12 battery is big enough you will be OK I am sure. My 12 VDC battery is only 10AH.

Brian

rctous said:

will 25 amps be enough for the car????? are you using AC? My car bare bones with lights on heater fan on and a blinker will draw 32 + amps,,, as long as you are not there very long and the 12 battery is big enough you will be OK I am sure. My 12 VDC battery is only 10AH.

Brian

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I won't have AC... decided against it as it wasn't working properly in the ICE..

You know, I was concerned that 25amps wouldn't be enough, but the guy at beepscom assured me I'd be fine. Bottom line, it's cheap enough to make it worth the try! If I end up needing a bigger one, no big deal really.

PatricioIN said:

I won't have AC... decided against it as it wasn't working properly in the ICE..

You know, I was concerned that 25amps wouldn't be enough, but the guy at beepscom assured me I'd be fine. Bottom line, it's cheap enough to make it worth the try! If I end up needing a bigger one, no big deal really.

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what size is your 12 volt battery for the car???

also if the conertor is not not big enough you can get a second one and add it in parallel to the existing one and double your out put

rctous said:

what size is your 12 volt battery for the car???

also if the conertor is not not big enough you can get a second one and add it in parallel to the existing one and double your out put

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hmmm... that could work if it ends up not being big enough... 50amps should be plenty.. I was thinking of just using the battery that was in the car.. not a good idea?

PatricioIN said:

hmmm... that could work if it ends up not being big enough... 50amps should be plenty.. I was thinking of just using the battery that was in the car.. not a good idea?

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that will be OK

but usually an easy way to drop several pounds of weight with a much smaller battery

Now I am concerned My DC/DC is only 21 amps.
I had planned on using the stock battery for accessories or replace with a AGM battery of about 40AH. Perhaps I will have to replace all the lamps with LED type
I have heard so many different ways of dealing with the 12 volt, including separate charger for 12 volt and no DC/DC at all.
I guess whatever gets the job done..

elevatorguy said:

Now I am concerned My DC/DC is only 21 amps.
I had planned on using the stock battery for accessories or replace with a AGM battery of about 40AH. Perhaps I will have to replace all the lamps with LED type
I have heard so many different ways of dealing with the 12 volt, including separate charger for 12 volt and no DC/DC at all.
I guess whatever gets the job done..

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Much of it depends on the size of the battery you plan to use for the 12 volt system of the car. A large enough battery can be charged seperatly and if you do not do to much night driving it will probably be OK, The advantage of a dc convertor is you will never run out of power and the draw on the traction pack is not very high, for example 21 amps at 12 vdc out put is 252 watts out put not that the dc convertor is 100% efficient but lets say it is for this example if your traction pack is 120 volts you will be using just over 2 amps of current from the pack to supply the power to your 12 volt system,,,, pretty insignificant all things considered.

Brian

Hey Patrick, your EV's coming along nicely mate! That motor's almost in! Looking forward to the first motor test spin!

My DC/DC is 55 amp and I used the same battery as Brian. I havent really tested it yet but Brians comments on his thread have me worried as right now I have my DC/DC on the batt side of my contactors. Now that I have that SLA I want to move it to the controller side so its only on when the system is on to stop battery drain.

Just some thoughts as I'm working on that system now......


Ben

TelnetManta said:

My DC/DC is 55 amp and I used the same battery as Brian. I havent really tested it yet but Brians comments on his thread have me worried as right now I have my DC/DC on the batt side of my contactors. Now that I have that SLA I want to move it to the controller side so its only on when the system is on to stop battery drain.

Just some thoughts as I'm working on that system now......


Ben

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I have heard that some do the dc convertor on the traction pack and don't even use a 12 volt battery,,, Iguess it will not draw hardly any current at idle? I am not going to do it but????? It would be interesting to see if ya did,, although if you have a seperate battery that it is responsible to charge the voltage would be to high(probably) as in "float" mode I do not think you would want more than 13.7 max,, and if the dc conv was set that low it may not fully charge the 12 volt battery,, hence the reason it should be on the contactor side or don't use the 12 v battery at all.

Just my thoughts,,, also Ben that battery didn't hold up so well for me ,, did ya notice how light it was???

Brian

rctous said:

also Ben that battery didn't hold up so well for me ,, did ya notice how light it was???

Brian

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I sure did and the fact that my car has a little more voltage requirement than yours worries me. I may have to go back to the original, although smaller 12V car battery. It's mounted in the rear of the car so luckily room won't be an issue.

Ben

TelnetManta said:

I sure did and the fact that my car has a little more voltage requirement than yours worries me. I may have to go back to the original, although smaller 12V car battery. It's mounted in the rear of the car so luckily room won't be an issue.

Ben

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not sure thats necessary I just think tha batteies we got were a bit how do I say" cheasy" I don't doubt that a 60 dollar version would have worked just fine,, Sorry man!!!

Brian

the original battery from my car is actually pretty small for a car battery... haven't weighed it yet, but at least it's not too big

Silly question... How are you weighing the parts you're removing?