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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings! Just received my Hyper9HV kit and it's all going in my 1978 Pinto Cruising Wagon. Just waiting on one more delivery from EVWest. Figured it's time to start documenting. Here's a breakdown of my build:

Hyper9HV Kit ( NetGain HyPer9 HV AC Motor X144 Controller Kit 144 Volt – Mac and Mac Electric Company, Inc. )
4xLG Chem 36v 5.94Kwh Bolt modules (bought over a year ago from batteryhookup.com )
Stealth EV 144v Charger/DCDC Converter ( Stealth EV 3.3KW 144V Aircooled Charger+1KW DC/DC Converter )

Dilithium BMS
Dilithium BMS Display w/ hall sensor
Dilithium EVCC (All bought from thunderstruck-ev.com )

CanEV adapter plate going to the manual 4 speed with clutch, and lightened flywheel.

I think that's all of the major components. Lotsa little parts. Still need to purchase cable and fuses. Located in Portland, OR. Ice should be coming out next week! I'll keep this updated as I go. I'm sure I will run into issues but already learned a few things from others hyper9 build threads!
-Sauce
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok, here is a simple schematic I made showing the HV circuit and some of the 12v system
123245

And here is the full schematic with all control wiring
123247

Things got little crowded but fit it all on there. My first time making schematics for anything really. Let me know if you see any glaring mistakes. Thanks!
-Sauce
 

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The schematics look really good for a first attempt.

There's one area that has me puzzled:
Why is the high voltage power to the motor controller fused on only the negative side? Why is the high voltage power between the charger/DC-DC and the battery fused on on the positive side (in the first diagram) or not at all (in the second diagram)? Why not fuse the total current in/out of the battery, at the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The schematics look really good for a first attempt.

There's one area that has me puzzled:
Why is the high voltage power to the motor controller fused on only the negative side? Why is the high voltage power between the charger/DC-DC and the battery fused on on the positive side (in the first diagram) or not at all (in the second diagram)? Why not fuse the total current in/out of the battery, at the battery?
I did forget the charger fuse in the 2nd diagram! Thank you! As for single sided fusing I used EV West's generic schematic as a starting point, and they only fused the negative side (and battery box midpoint), so I don't have a good answer. ( https://evwest.com/support/Hyper 9 Kit Schematic.pdf )
 

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As for single sided fusing I used EV West's generic schematic as a starting point, and they only fused the negative side (and battery box midpoint), so I don't have a good answer. ( https://evwest.com/support/Hyper 9 Kit Schematic.pdf )
In the diagram from EV West, the main battery fuse passes all of the current flowing through the battery (as does the current-measuring shunt), not bypassed for the charger. And that fuse is adjacent to the battery, as it should be.

The charger gets its own fuse, located close to the charger as it should be for fault protection when the charger is the source, presumably lower-rated because the charger wiring is smaller gauge than the wiring between the battery and the controller. I don't know why they chose to fuse positive in one case and negative in the other - I think typical production EV practice is to fuse both sides at the battery.


I just noticed that in the first diagram your current sensor (labelled "Hall sensor") only measures current to the controller - it misses charger and DC-DC current, which probably won't work properly for the BMS. Also, it's in the positive side in both diagrams, which is fine as long as that's okay with the sensor and with the BMS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
In the diagram from EV West, the main battery fuse passes all of the current flowing through the battery (as does the current-measuring shunt), not bypassed for the charger. And that fuse is adjacent to the battery, as it should be.

The charger gets its own fuse, located close to the charger as it should be for fault protection when the charger is the source, presumably lower-rated because the charger wiring is smaller gauge than the wiring between the battery and the controller. I don't know why they chose to fuse positive in one case and negative in the other - I think typical production EV practice is to fuse both sides at the battery.


I just noticed that in the first diagram your current sensor (labelled "Hall sensor") only measures current to the controller - it misses charger and DC-DC current, which probably won't work properly for the BMS. Also, it's in the positive side in both diagrams, which is fine as long as that's okay with the sensor and with the BMS.
Thanks for the input. I did forget to put the charger HV+ fuse in the second diagram. And I think I understand what you're saying about the battery fuse and see I should re-route the charger negative side to the other side of the fuse? The dilithium BMS Display manual states to put the hall sensor on the battery+ side, I'll try to make it's placement more clear in the second diagram (things were getting crowded). Thanks again for the input!
 

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Thanks for the input. I did forget to put the charger HV+ fuse in the second diagram. And I think I understand what you're saying about the battery fuse and see I should re-route the charger negative side to the other side of the fuse? The dilithium BMS Display manual states to put the hall sensor on the battery+ side, I'll try to make it's placement more clear in the second diagram (things were getting crowded). Thanks again for the input!
Out of curiosity, what tool did you use to draw the schematic?
Thanks, Bill
 

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I did forget to put the charger HV+ fuse in the second diagram. And I think I understand what you're saying about the battery fuse and see I should re-route the charger negative side to the other side of the fuse?
Yes, that would make sense.

The dilithium BMS Display manual states to put the hall sensor on the battery+ side...
You're good then. :)
 

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When you run a lightened flywheel is that a modification to the original or do you buy a lighter one?
Either way is possible. I had the flywheel in my race-prepared Honda lightened (to about half of its original weight) by turning on a lathe to remove material; you can also buy lighter flywheels, often made of aluminum rather than steel (or cast iron).

Since the starter motor is no longer needed, the ring gear on the flywheel is also not needed; because it is at the outer edge, it adds more unwanted inertia than the same mass of metal closer to the shaft. Some of them are just pressed on and can be removed; others are integral to the flywheel and would need to be machined of (typically on a lathe).
 

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Hi,
I have just installed the Hyper 9HV in my Holden Barina EV conversion. Netgain now recommend that between the B+Precharge terminal on the Controller and the Main Contactor +A1, you place a fuse and another smaller contactor (HV relay) with the new contactor controlled by the Keyswitch - this is in REV09 of the new Hyper9 Instruction Manual (all except the bit about "controlled by the Keyswitch" - I had to work that out for myself.
If you have any questions along the way - just ask.
 
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