DIY Electric Car Forums banner

21 - 40 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
510 Posts
The TransWarP 9" is intended to replace the transmission and motor. I had decided to use the transmission and I was just about to buy the motor, but now I'm not so sure...

Sorry again, RFengineers. I almost bought a Sunbeam for a few hundred dollars for my EV project. It looks like it will be a fun car to drive around. I think your idea to start with 72V, with plans for more batteries in the future, is great. There's no reason to overbuild the car. If it works fine for you with 72V, you'll save plenty of money that way. Keep us updated with your plans!

-D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
oh... the transwarp has another transmission built in... ok that could be fine then. youd still have to worry about reverse tho...

i should stop trying to give advice when i dont understand the problem... sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
510 Posts
I don't think my last post was clear. The TransWarP 9" motor has a yoke so it can couple to the driveshaft, but has no internal transmission. But the motor is designed to replace the tranny. At least that's what I understand from http://www.go-ev.com/motors-warp.html.

I was thinking about using the transmission and getting a more standard motor, but now I'm not so sure.

I think the pain of electric reverse would be outweighed by the possible weight savings of the transmissionless EV. Just my 2 cents.

-D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Wow, what a can of worms!

Now I have people telling me that the new "Get Smart" movie is going to increase the value of my Alpine since Max drives a Sunbeam Tiger.

I am moving slowly, since I have to work for a living. The ICE and transmission have been removed and I am currently working on the brakes and fixing body rot under the doors.

I suppose that when I get to the point of doing irreversible modifications I will make the final decision about selling the rolling chassis and going with another car for my conversion.

I will start taking some 'before' pictures as soon as I get back from vacation next week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
After a lot of thought, I have decided to wait on the Sunbeam conversion. The car is not easily replaced and I don't want to use it as my "learning experience":(.

So, I have a new donor car for my first conversion:D! I picked it up earlier this week. It's a 1996 Pontiac Sunfire. Today the motor/tranny got pressure-washed. The motor will be coming out this weekend. Pictures to follow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Well, the learning experience is about done and it is time to get started on the Alpine:)!

We brought the car to the shop this weekend.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
sounds FUN. i would vote for a modest 96 volt system with 8v batteries as a balance between range and volts and a ADC 8"... unless you want to build an electric Tiger. You'll have room for lots of batteries with space behind seats and trunk.

I had a '66 Tiger, so know for a fact that if you replace driveline with Mustang, you should handle all the HP you want. Be careful with the front xmember as they tend to rust through in hidden places; you might want to weld a plate on the bottom and add some bracing to the engine bay.

electronics are SIMPLE in an Alpine, and the least reliable part (fuel pump) you are ditching.;)

You will probably want to go for mustang brakes... the Alpines are a little heavy with all the steel in the body, and the original brakes are pretty marginal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
We finally got some time to work on the Alpine. Started to grind on the rocker panels and found that they were solid bondo:mad:!

To make a long story short: There is a bunch of new metal from wheelwell to wheelwell on both sides! Also, patches on the floor and around the 12V battery box:D.

This is going to be a long project:eek:!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi RF Enginerrs,

I am interested in your project as its not common in the UK and I am a long time sunbeam owner.
I am interested to see how you progress - good luck!
Its probalby a little more eco freindly than my Tiger.

I saw you asked about brakes, the standard tiger uses the same brakes as the alpine but they both had a booster driven by the engine vacuum
An alternative is a smaller master cylinder and no booster.

regards

Jeff


We finally got some time to work on the Alpine. Started to grind on the rocker panels and found that they were solid bondo:mad:!

To make a long story short: There is a bunch of new metal from wheelwell to wheelwell on both sides! Also, patches on the floor and around the 12V battery box:D.

This is going to be a long project:eek:!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Hi RF Enginerrs,

I am interested in your project as its not common in the UK and I am a long time sunbeam owner.
I am interested to see how you progress - good luck!
Its probalby a little more eco freindly than my Tiger.

I saw you asked about brakes, the standard tiger uses the same brakes as the alpine but they both had a booster driven by the engine vacuum
An alternative is a smaller master cylinder and no booster.

regards

Jeff
Hi Jeff,

Thanks for your interest.
Unfortunately, the project is on hold due to lack of funds. I will post more information after the upcoming financial recovery:)!
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
When you get back into your project, you might want to contact Cloud Electric in Kent, Washington. They do car & boat electric conversions, and did a Series I about 4-5 years ago for a professor down in SanFran. I had a chance to look it over and talk to the Cloud engineers.

I don't remember which motor they used, but the owner kept the 4-speed tranny. The Cloud guys wouldn't say so directly, but I got the impression they thought that was a waste, given the extra weight and friction loss.

Early Series (particularly I & II) cars are the way to go if you're using a Sunbeam Alpine. In restorable condition, they're still relatively plentiful and cheap. At any one time, there are several available on eBay or Craigslist. Body rigidity is very strong; there are no real differences there between an Alpine and a Tiger. That was considered their Achilles Heel back in the day, as the extra x-bracing underneath (added to prevent cowl shake) raised the weight to about 2200 lbs and left the 4-banger Alpine less competitive on the track. For your purposes, it's perfect.

The Tiger, at 2600+ lbs, did use stronger front springs, probably recommended in your case.

I believe the Cloud Alpine used a dozen heavy-duty batteries (4 up front, 4 behind the seat, 4 in the trunk), probably weighing around 1000 lbs. Losing the piston engine would mean a net gain of 800 lbs, or around 3000 lbs total. The Girling disc/drum brakes are fine for street purposes, but you may want to add an aftermarket booster.

Someone mentioned differentials. The Alpine unit is generally strong enough, BUT, the bolts holding the ring gear have a HIGH tendency to loosen and eventually break off over time, sometimes blowing up the unit. Replacing the odd-size bolts requires a bit of sleuthing (try the Sunbeam Alpine Owners Club of America board) but with new bolts, you shouldn't have any worries in this department.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
The cross-member in the front has a typical place for rust right in the middle. Guys in my Tiger club often had to weld a plate underneath to stiffen them back up. I can't remember what the rear diff was, but I think it was a mustang rear end in the Tigers.... just a big 'ol live rear axle that jumped all over when you hammered it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
The cross-member in the front has a typical place for rust right in the middle. Guys in my Tiger club often had to weld a plate underneath to stiffen them back up. I can't remember what the rear diff was, but I think it was a mustang rear end in the Tigers.... just a big 'ol live rear axle that jumped all over when you hammered it.
The front cross-member looks good, but I will check it again. I did have to weld in a couple of new steel beams behind the rocker covers. They were mostly rusted away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
The front cross-member looks good, but I will check it again.

might not have been stressed too much w/ an Alpine. The Tiger's engine was WAY heavier, plus the extra torque.... I ripped two motor mounts apart after 'tuning' the motor. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
The front cross-member looks good, but I will check it again. I did have to weld in a couple of new steel beams behind the rocker covers. They were mostly rusted away.
If you still have much more body rust to deal with, you might want to keep an eye out for another, less-rusty body. They're out there, especially Series II's.

BTW, in the Cloud Alpine, the trunk floor and spare tire box were all pretty much cut out to make room for a custom battery tray, and the deck in back of the seats was also cut out and lowered.

I've yet to come across an Alpine front crossmember suffering from structural failure, and very few from significant rust. The X-frame and the front mount areas for the rear leaf springs are more likely candidates for rot underneath.

To the other poster, the Tiger rear end is a Salisbury unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
how did this alpine turn out? ever finished?

I just bought a '62 series 2 Alpine off ebay, and while it is a good runner with original engine, I bought with intent to convert..... very curious about what electric motor will fit into an alpine without breaking the drivetrain, or whether I should change to a mustang or some other drivetrain to handle torque.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Both electric Alpines I've come across in the Seattle area retained the original tranny and diff. The tranny is plenty strong. The diff probably is for all but the most 'enthusiastic' drivers. As I wrote in an earlier post in this thread, EVERY Alpine owner should replace the diff's ring gear bolts, which invariably loosen due to their soft washers, break and fall into the soup - and that's if you're lucky.


how did this alpine turn out? ever finished?

I just bought a '62 series 2 Alpine off ebay, and while it is a good runner with original engine, I bought with intent to convert..... very curious about what electric motor will fit into an alpine without breaking the drivetrain, or whether I should change to a mustang or some other drivetrain to handle torque.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
how did this alpine turn out? ever finished?

I just bought a '62 series 2 Alpine off ebay, and while it is a good runner with original engine, I bought with intent to convert..... very curious about what electric motor will fit into an alpine without breaking the drivetrain, or whether I should change to a mustang or some other drivetrain to handle torque.
I would not use anything less than a 9" motor. As for breaking the drive train, I think it is more a factor of how heavy a foot you have and how much your controller can pump to it when you slam the throttle. If you have a soliton you can adjust the ramp up to keep your drive train intact.

Pete :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
Both electric Alpines I've come across in the Seattle area retained the original tranny and diff. The tranny is plenty strong. The diff probably is for all but the most 'enthusiastic' drivers. As I wrote in an earlier post in this thread, EVERY Alpine owner should replace the diff's ring gear bolts, which invariably loosen due to their soft washers, break and fall into the soup - and that's if you're lucky.
very good info, I will add a differential check/rebuild to the list of conversion tasks for this one.... I have more homework to do on a couple aspects, and sure wish I could talk with any other Alpine conversion people.

Current plan would be 9"ADC motor, probably curtis 1231 controller (Zilla and Soliton are just too pricey and I really hesitate pushing more than 500amps thru anyway, so why pay for 1000 amp max), 144v worth of either 100ah, or 160ah LiFePO4.

I am wondering:

- if CanEV, or any of the other clutched design adaptor people have the Alpine adaptor in their past, or if I should consider changing to a more modern transmission like the M5 from the 2.8L v-6 Ford motors. This one in particular is popular for v-6 conversions because the motor fits in the Alpine bay, but I am wondering if there is a good tranny the would NOT require modification to the tunnel.

- if I should stick with the wire-wheel knockoff hubs, or the regular steel wheels... I have both with the car I think... although I am unsure of the condition of the wire wheels yet.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Check out Synkromotive controllers. I guarantee you will want to belt out more than 500 amps. Curtis controllers are a main stay but are anemic. You need amps unless you plan on 156 volts or higher. Then volts become your friend. Your motor of choice can handle more amps than 400. Check out the continuous amp output too. The higher the better. If its like 250 you could be in trouble fast. Many vehicles run at freeway speeds in that range of amp draw which would push any controller to the limits. My controller is like 450 continuous. Well above my cruising range. More volts help too. More volts and more amps. Don't skimp on the controller because in the end you will buy the curtis and you will buy the Soliton1. That will cost more in the end. So buy the best first and just run your car at a lower voltage if you must. I'd go for as high of voltage as you can and the best controller you can and lithium batteries and such because in the end you will be there anyway and if you start small and grow it will cost way more. It may cost a bundle up front but I know you will want to upgrade and that means more batteries a different controller and a different charger. The cost of upgrading is expensive. Your needs dictate you don't need much but after you get a good taste of electric drive your wants will overpower your needs. Ask me how I know that one? It will take longer but you will have a better vehicle in the end.

Pete :)
 
21 - 40 of 55 Posts
Top