DIY Electric Car Forums banner

Planning EV Race Car

13366 Views 30 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  dougingraham
Hi All,
My name is Alex. I'm a big EV enthusiast and I have decided that I want to build a race car. I have little experience disassembling and reassembling cars but I am fairly apt with my hands and I'm fairly bright.
Here's a little bit about me, I am a student at a small university in upstate NY. I worked for two years for the University of Toronto on the original Surface and Google Glass with regards to notifications. I am going to major in Physics.

I have considered which car will serve as the basis for my car. I would prefer if I kept that private for now. Its a small car, perfect for racing.

The range I would like to achieve is around 80 miles at very high speed.

Yasa 750 (H if available) x4 probably.

Battery pack ideas? Looking for Li-Ion

Rimac Battery Packs - if they are for sale.
Drive inverter?
Reinhart Controllers - PM250

Basic knowledge of EVs:

Energy goes in to the car from the grid through an adapter into a charger. The charger fills the pack. When you push down on the accelerator the controller allows current to flow into the inverter which converts the DC -> AC to spin a brushless motor. The motor usually connected to a reduction gear or gearbox spins the gears etc.

Is that correct? How does one program regenerative breaking?

That is really all that I have thought about.
I'm willing to push the limits financially right now. I would, however, like to keep track of the price of the parts.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

See less See more
1 - 1 of 31 Posts
You never want to go to 10% SOC, definitely not 0%, unless you like buying cells and building packs. The rule of thumb around here seems to be 20%. I generally figure 25% SOC with LiPo, just to give them a little extra margin.
Heck, I'd go to 0% to win a race :confused: Done it a number of times. What hurts is hitting zero SOC 50 yards from the finish line while leading a 9 lap race at Laguna Seca :(

Zero SOC isn't zero voltage. The battery can take it. It's racing so I ain't looking to get 3000 cycles. I don't want to carry any extra battery mass than I need to finish the race.
1 - 1 of 31 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.