All rear-engine VW's have independent rear suspension, so I assume you mean that you have the CV-joint rear, rather than the earlier swing axles. It doesn't really matter, unless you replace the VW transaxle, in which case the CV joint setup is an advantage because the axle shafts don't take lateral suspension force.I have bought a Volkswagen Beetle 1303s with independent rear suspension to convert to an EV.
Thank you for the reply, I will contact Heiko Fleck to see what kit he could offer.Hello
Here is a conversion from Belgium. Components are from Heiko Fleck from Germany.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8P36UBtiyEI
Grettings Boxster-Warp
Correct the 1303s is known in the states as a super beetle. I really like the vw beetle and I'm glad I bought a 1303s. It has the McPherson front suspension, koni rear suspension and handles better than the earlier beetles.All rear-engine VW's have independent rear suspension, so I assume you mean that you have the CV-joint rear, rather than the earlier swing axles. It doesn't really matter, unless you replace the VW transaxle, in which case the CV joint setup is an advantage because the axle shafts don't take lateral suspension force.I have bought a Volkswagen Beetle 1303s with independent rear suspension to convert to an EV.
My understanding is that a 1303 is the Super Beetle, with the longer nose (and curved windshield and McPherson strut front suspension). That will have more space up front than the regular Beetle for battery modules, if you need to put some there.![]()
It isn't important to the conversion, but swing axles are an independent suspension - the movement of each wheel is independent of the other one. Only people in the air-cooled VW/Porsche enthusiast crowd commonly make this basic terminology error, but they do it very commonly so I understood what you meant.With a transaxle I feel you really can't call it independent suspension. With a transaxle it more like a swing arm in my opinion...
Any way, I have the cv joint type, so I assume the handeling will be better than with a transaxle.
Shocks aren't really "reinforced" (made stronger), but they come in different rates of damping (or "stiffness"). Shock damping should suit the mass of the vehicle, so if you increase the mass supported by either the front or rear axle, then stiffer shocks for that end of the car would be appropriate. That can wait until the conversion is complete, because it can be done any time and you won't know the mass until you're done. Shocks which are too stiff are almost as bad as shocks which are too soft.Do you think I should install reinforced shocks?
Is this an AC or DC motor/controller system? 72 volts is in my opinion on the low end but it would work in the VW as long as you can mount it to the transaxle.Hi everybody, today I got a proposal from Heiko Fleck from Germany. Thanks for the reference!
Can you guys have a look at this proposal and share your opinion, feedback?
For 1500Euro i can have an 20Kw engine from Best Motors Italia and an ZAppi Controller.
It was installed in an Scoda Fabia. That car starts in the fourth gear
Its water-cooled system.
If I want I can have the hole car too for the same price.
Charger used is 400euro from Zivan and used DCDC is 100euro
Batteries 24 pieces 160Ah GBS Batteries
4608 Euro and BMS 1200Euro with Display
Its an 72 V System
Fuses 60Euro
Cable 6 Meter 120euro
To me, this sounds fair and I'm concidering this proposal....
It a AC 3 phase motor (Asynchrone).Is this an AC or DC motor/controller system? 72 volts is in my opinion on the low end but it would work in the VW as long as you can mount it to the transaxle.
The typical voltage for our HPEVS motors are up to 144 volts depending upon the controller and motor used. Others are using like Tesla Motors and running in the 300 volt range. I have two HPEVS AC Induction motors and both of them will be running 120 volts.It a AC 3 phase motor (Asynchrone).
What do you mean with on the low end? What's better with a higher voltage?
Just took a quick spin through the AC-3 / AC-4 User Manual. I would say that the setup would be totally fine for your VW Beetle. The biggest hurdle would be to attach the motor to the stock transaxle. Beyond that I'd say yes. Get the manual if you don't already have it and when you remove parts from the other vehicle get all the components and take pictures of connected parts before disassembly. The manual is very good and gives loads of information.It a AC 3 phase motor (Asynchrone).
What do you mean with on the low end? What's better with a higher voltage?
Not terrible if they are new. If not haggle hard to get them lower depending upon the mileage on the batteries. BMS. no clue. Im assuming its a Zapi BMS. Check on their site to see what theirs costs new.And what do you guys think about the price? Is the amount of euros for the battery ok?? And for the bms?