[_Jef_]

And I also found a body that's in good shape. The first car I bought was to far gone with rust.
I will build the car with all except interior and have the car technically approved, then take it apart again and paint it.

I will also update the entire electric part with:

• third brake light
• DAB bluetooth radio
• powered windows
• side indicators
• led tail lights
• led head lights
• parking sensors at the back
• electric pump for the windshield wiper fluid
• ....

 

[_Jef_]

start motor blind plate

 

[_Jef_]

I also took apart the gearbox to conclude that it was worn. The money I needed to invest to rebuild the gearbox was significant,
so I decided to buy a stronger rebuilt gearbox from Rancho. The motor I have puts out 120Nm which is to high for the original gearbox.
Some people might think it will be fine, but I rather be on the safe side. Since I want to use it as a daily driver, I don't want to break down.
If I ever upgrade the motor to a stronger one, the gearbox should be fine

 

[_Jef_]

now It's time for the charging plug
I cut out the filler hole for the original VW tank from one of the other bodies and will design a lasercut plate to mount the charging plug.
I also bought a second hand charging cable that's never been used. It has the same colors as I want to paint the car .
For charging I took a plug that can take 32A current. that way I can also upgrade the charger in the future If I want to go to fast charging with three phases.

 

[_Jef_]

Okay, I decided to go with a 3D printed part for the plug adapter.
Making it out of sheet metal would require to much work + with 3D printing I could make it really ideal.
The idea is to glue this into the original fuel neck position so that I can bolt the Mennekes plug to it.
It uses the original lid/cover plate and can be used with the different types that I had laying around.
I will be installing the one with the release cable and the spring that opens the lid. I will use a solenoid to open the lid in stead of the handle...
I also made a rain drain in case some water gets in.
I'm going to print one as a prototype to see if the dimensions are good.
Do you think others would be interested in this as well? Maybe I can reduce the print cost a bit when I go with higher numbers...
If you are interested, let me know.

these were the different lids I had laying around:

 

[Boxster-warp]

Hello
I am also considering converting a BEETLE or Karmann ghia. Your work is very interesting.
Greetings from Germany

 

[_Jef_]

Some updates:

Axle of the motor has been worked to mount the pilot bearing for the gearbox shaft.

 

[_Jef_]

Flywheel modified and adapter turned on the lathe.

 

[_Jef_]

Part 3d printed. In PETG

For the charging port.
Was 15 euros 😁

 

[_Jef_]

Rebuilding porsche 944 brakes on all 4 wheels of the car.
Should look like this in the end

 

[_Jef_]

 

[brian_]

View attachment 121775
Flywheel modified and adapter turned on the lathe.

If you modified the flywheel, why does it still have the starter ring gear teeth? They're useless, and just add rotational inertia.

 

[_Jef_]

The teeth are hardened and to remove them the cutting tool would suffer a lot, because of the interrupted cut... Something the operater of the lathe was not happy to do...
If you have any tips for this, please let me know.

 

[brian_]

The teeth are hardened and to remove them the cutting tool would suffer a lot, because of the interrupted cut... Something the operater of the lathe was not happy to do...
If you have any tips for this, please let me know.

I wouldn't want to machine through the teeth themselves, although I've driven cars that feel like they're trying to do that. Perhaps a parting cut axially through the flywheel just inside of the teeth, to separate the teeth as a complete ring... but of course the teeth can just be left on.

In many cases (including a few air-cooled VWs, but not most) the ring gear is a separate piece, mounted as a shrink fit to the flywheel - that's easier, because the ring gear can just be heated and knocked off.

 

[_Jef_]

Adapter between motorhousing and gearboxhousing is also fabricated. This weekend I will test fit everything.
And then the flywheel, adapter and rotor will be balanced.

 

[_Jef_]

OK, did some test fitting today.
The parts are good, but there's still 1 dimension I'm not sure about.
I've never assembled a clutch and therefore it's difficult to judge how important it is.
I'm hoping some of you can help me...
Because of the uncertainty, I've left excess material on the adapter plate that can be removed on the lathe.

In the image above you see the measurement I'm talking about. It's the relative position between the surface of the flywheel where the clutch disk is pushed against and the surface of the adapter plate that is in contact with the bell housing of the gearbox. (the words in the image above are in my native language...)

Can someone confirm that this dimension is right? 11mm or 0,43"
The gearnox is a VW type 1 gearbox .

this is with the gearbox mounted on top of the motor. (without pressure plate and clutch disk.

 

[_Jef_]

I have installed the clutch disk and pressure group (bolted down) and measured the height of this compared to the contact surface of the adapter plate. This measurement was 55,5 mm.

Using these precision bars I could measure the distance... The pressure group and clutch disk are not visible in the picture, but it gives an idea how it was measured...

I also meausered the distance between the contact surface of the gearbox and the thrust bearing. This was 64,5.
For this I placed I ruler across the gearbox bell housing and meausered to the contact surface of the thrust bearing.

This would mean that the thrust bearing needs to travel 9mm before it comes in to contact with the pressure plate. Is this normal? Or should the gap be smaller?
I can create a smaller gap by removing material from the back of the adapter plate....

Pressure group is new btw.

 

[_Jef_]

This is 21 mm

 

[_Jef_]

This is 37 mm

 

[_Jef_]

And this is what it looks like at the shaft

In the picture there is a rubber ring on the shaft to tell how deep the shaft is in the pilot bearing.

So you alll can see I can still take some of the adapter plate to have less travel on the thrust bearing. But I don't know how much...
Any suggestions how I can verify or check?