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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have searched for and read other wiring diagrams and have gotten some good info. Now I am looking for comments on mine. I am posting two pics. The first is the wiring diagram I got from Evolve Electrics. It looks good except for a couple items which I will explain below. i also decided to make my own diagram and simplify it a little by making just a High Voltage diagram. Later, I will make the 12V system diagram.



This is Evolves diagram. I am not using a Netgain Controller, but using the Open Revolt Controller. A few wires shown here will not be used for mine since I do not have those connections on the Open Revolt. I may also have to re-configure a couple items like the Key On wiring. Also, I do not have a water cooling system for my controller. The second item I see wrong is the ground wire from the shunt back to the Negative on the 12V. I think this is here because the Expert Pro suggests it in their manual, but we do not want any HV connection to the 12V system. Do you see any other issues here?



This is the simplified HV wiring diagram I made. Does it look correct? Any suggestions? Do I need the second 500A fuse in the rear of the car? I have one fuse now, but will need to get another if it is needed. I will be using the Expert Pro, so the Ammeter and Voltmeter designations are just for showing the connection location. The thick lines are 2/0 welding cable and the thin lines are 6 AWG wire.



Larger, clearer photos on my blog
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think it's a pretty epic wiring diagram, but rather difficult (for me) to follow. Are you using the black and red and not the grey, or both?
This is why I thought I would make two separate diagrams with HV on one and 12V on the other. I haven't made the 12V yet. On the main diagram from Evolve, I will be using most of the wiring that is there. At the bottom center is a water cooling system for the controller, which I will not use, and my controller does not have any kind of key switch input, so I have to redo how that will be wired. I am also going to monitor voltage in a split pack situation so there are two voltmeters being added.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would clearly mark the positive and negative connection terminal of each component. It is pretty obvious for most of your components, but the contactors get confusing with 4 possible terminals (+,-, coil +, coil -) and multiple paths heading to the same connection point.
Yes, I see what you are saying. The Contactors have 4 connections which I did not show because I was focused on the HV portion, but I should probably show them so as not to cause myself some confusion when going through the triple check of the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If anyone with the Open Revolt Controller is reading this, where did you put your pre-charge resistor, and do you have a picture of how you connected it? I put it on the Primary contactor connections in my diagram, but not sure if it should be on the positive side or negative side of the controller input. I am also unsure of how exactly to connect a couple resistors, so a picture of how you did it would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have updated my High Voltage wiring diagram. Please check it out and let me know if you see anything wrong or problematic.

I have added the pre-charge resistor circuit and updated the battery section to show each individual battery.



Once again, a larger more legible picture is on my erxperience blog. The link is in my signature.

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Hey Dave,
I have a open revolt controller on my Geo Metro ev and have wired the pre-charge circuit just as you did. The one thing you might consider doing is moving your shunt to the other side of your negative contactor so that you can monitor your charge cycle amps with it also. Another thing you might want to consider is fusing all the things that branch off your HV side, such as the pre-charge loop, voltmeter, amp meter, ect. That way if something shorts out, the fuse will blow before the wires vaporize and possibly start a fire.
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey Dave,
I have a open revolt controller on my Geo Metro ev and have wired the pre-charge circuit just as you did. The one thing you might consider doing is moving your shunt to the other side of your negative contactor so that you can monitor your charge cycle amps with it also. Another thing you might want to consider is fusing all the things that branch off your HV side, such as the pre-charge loop, voltmeter, amp meter, ect. That way if something shorts out, the fuse will blow before the wires vaporize and possibly start a fire.
Joe
Joe,

Thanks for the input. I actually need to change the diagram to reflect the E-Xpert Pro device instead of individual Volt and Amp Meters. (I have individual meters as well, but may not use them, or may use just the voltmeter.) I put those there for simplicity in the early version, but now need to change it. I did think about what you suggested with moving the shunt to the other side of the contactor. I think I should do that so the E-Xpert Pro can count both directions. I am sure the power drain is minimal, but I will have to remember to disconnect the system if I am not charging and leaving the car for any length of time.

I will add the fuses to the drawing. Not sure how I forgot to put them in there.

What relay did you use? My system is 140V, so I imagine it has to handle up to 170V. Also, did you put a diode across the coils, or is that unnecessary?

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The DC/DC converter is not switched? Would it be better on the switched side of the contactors?
The original diagram from Evolve has the output of the DC/DC with an automotive relay on it, so it only feeds the 12V battery when the key is on. I will take a look at some of the other diagrams again and see where they had theirs.
 

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The original diagram from Evolve has the output of the DC/DC with an automotive relay on it, so it only feeds the 12V battery when the key is on. I will take a look at some of the other diagrams again and see where they had theirs.
I wonder if the relay on the output would prevent current draw from the batteries? My kit diagram from rebirthauto showed the input of the dc/dc switched by the main contactor. They included a choke coil for the input.

After watching this Friday's EVTV they suggested the choke coil does prevent a rush of incoming current to the dc/dc controller's caps. They also suggested a 50 amp diode on the input to prevent controller's caps providing current to the motor when the batteries sag under acceleration. I'm going to add a diode becaause this does make sence.
 

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Hey Dave,
Attached is a picture of my positive control side. From the + battery terminal it goes thru a 500A fuse, to a Kilovac EV200AAANA contactor. Bridging the contactor is the pre-charge power curcuit. From the pos input of the contactor the pre-charge goes to a 20A slow blow fuse, to a Mager 40A 24-220v DC SSR(Ebay $13) that actuates with 12v DC from the key switch. It then goes thru a 100W 50 Ohm power resistor to the output side of the contactor which is actuated by the Revolts pre-charge curcuit with a 5 second delay. When the key switch is turned off, the pre-charge relay loses power, as does the controller and thu it the main contactor.
I'm using a cycle analyst to monitor my charge discharge cycles and the HV power to it is thru a relay which is disconnected with the key switch. During charging it wil be powered by a small 13v powersupply as soon as I hook it up. I'm just finishing wiring all this up. It was quite a thrill to turn the key switch and hear all the relays click on and see things power up.
Hope this helps,
Joe
 

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