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Power Steering using Toyota MR2 EHPS pump

223266 Views 72 Replies 39 Participants Last post by  remy_martian
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Many EV conversions have to deal with Power Steering decision. If you decided to keep PS and looking how to drive PS pump, consider this all-in-one solution brought to you by Toyota engineers. Toyota MR2 has EHPS ( Electric Hydraulic Power Steering ) in which pump is driven by its own electric motor instead of pulley hanging off the main engine like most ICE cars do. First generation of MR2 had separate fluid tank, motor/pump assembly and controller, some EVers took motor/pump and wired it directly to 12V or via various switching circuits designed to keep the pump off while driving straight or at high speed to save power.

However, 3rd generation of MR2 also called Spyder has a single pump assembly combining motor, pump, fluid tank and controller, making it very attractive option for EV community.

To the best of my knowledge you are looking for 2000-2005 ( maybe some other years, I'm not sure ) EHPS pump from Toyota MR2 Spyder, call your local junk yards or check this one online http://car-part.com . The pump looks like this:

Auto part Automotive engine part Automotive starter motor Carburetor Engine


To wire it use schematics below. If you don't have proper harnesses you can either solder directly or create your own connectors for each pin. I personally created connectors and then filled harnesses with caulk to keep wires in place. It can be removed later if needed.

Passive circuit component Circuit component Diagram Plan Technical drawing
Auto part Carburetor Automotive engine part Engine Vehicle


Although 50 Amp relay is stated, I couldn't find one so I used typical 40 Amp automotive relay, my testing shows that it doesn't actually reach 50 Amp current anyway.

You can wire VSS signal from your car to make the pump turn itself off at higher speeds, but I couldn't manage that because my Miata has unusual VSS signal. Even without VSS, the pump runs idle at 4 Amps until you actually turn the steering wheel, so the power wasted is very minimal.

You'd have to find a way to connect PS Pressure line from the pump to your car's rack and return line from the rack back to the pump. Return line is easy, just use 3/8 hose and clamps. As for pressure line, if you are lucky you can fit one from other Toyota models, if not, you can make custom one from separately purchased fittings and the pressure hose, I have seen those on Ebay and online shops like this one http://www.summitracing.com/

Hope this helps, feel free to update this Wiki with more details, my main goal was to publish schematics and wiring, I am not very good with hydraulics, maybe someone can add details on making custom pressure hose.

Here are the Toyota part#'s for the electrical Connectors: These part#'s get the Plastic part only, The metal pin wiring parts are sold separately. Maybe someone can add the part#'s for those.
Part#'s Large connector 90980-12068
Middle connector 90980-10897
Small end connector 90980-10942

There are two part numbers for the wiring. They come with the plugs, rubber seals, & about 6 inches of wire. At $6.55/ea they aren't cheap for what you get, but they are made to fit.

Three pigtails for the small & middle connectors P/N: 82998-12440
Two pigtails for the large connector P/N: 82998-12500



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Based on Dmitri's wiring, is anyone having trouble with the MR2 pump spinning backwards? While it does spin, we're getting suction on the high pressure side of the pump, and aeration in the fluid reservoir whenever we crack the high pressure output fitting. But when we reverse the battery leads to the pump to change motor direction, the positive lead appears to be going directly to ground and immediately blows fuses.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
HANK

Does anyone have an answer to this problem? I have just recently bought a MR2 hyd pump (2001-2005 with integrated ECU) and am having the exact same problem. The pump will turn on and run fine, but it runs backward. This is the third pump I have tried( peugeot 307, subaru xt6 and MR2) and all three have had something wrong with them. The 307 runs at what seems about 20 rpm and puts out zero pressure, the xt6 I cannot even get to turn on (although I haven't really tried anything more than just hooking a pos and neg leads to the big terminals) and the MR2 runs backward. I really would like to figure out the MR2 because it came with a really nice mounting bracket that fit perfectly and I have the fittings for the hyd lines already. Thanks in advance.
I got a 2002 MR2 pump for my electric car conversion and when I first attempted to test it I connected only positive and negative wires from a 12v battery to +12/50A and GND from the picture and all I got was a spark, of course my first thought " I got a bad pump", No it wasn't bad, I was bad for not understanding the diagram: if you pay attention there is another "+12V Ignition Switch" going to pin1 of the 4 pins plug . When I connected that pin to the +12V, TOGETHER WITH "+12/50A"the pump started pumping oil from inside, I only power it just for a second because the pump wasn't connected to anything

Hope this help.
Thanks for the reply. I can get the pump to run, that is not the problem. The problem is that it runs backward. It pumps air instead of fluid. I have hooked the 12vdc (50 amp) pos and neg to the fat pins like in the picture on page one of this thread. Neg being the farthest pin outboard. The middle connector(6 pin) I have +12vdc going to pin 5, lower right corner. And the end connector(4 pin) I have +12vdc going to the upper right corner, pin 1. If +12vdc is connected directly to these pins, the internal relay kicks on and the pump runs for about a 1/2 second, then stops then runs backward at what I assume is full power. If I try to wire it up exactly as depicted in the picture with an external relay, it will not run at all. The voltage after the main (50 amp) relay, pin 86/coil, drops to about 8 volts and this is not enough to get the internal relay(inside the pump connected at pin 5) to switch on.
I opened up the case of the ECU on the pump and found that pin 1 on the outside 4 pin connector was extremely corroded. In fact it fell apart when I tried to clean it. So I soldered in a new pin. Continuity checks and the pump does the same thing after being wired up again. HB0517 said that he has had the exact same problem, but so far no response from a PM I sent him. Has anyone else had a similar problem with the 2001 Spyder MR2 pump? There is no other corrosion inside the pump that I could see.
So far this hyd system has been nothing but frustration for me. :confused: Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Hi DImitri

I hope you can help me

I already hooked like your picture, but the pin5 that out of unit to the relay , he doesn't work.
I already mesure the volts between pin 86 and 85 relay's and i have a voltage just 1,..V when i turn on the dash switch.

I already put de ground direct to the 85 pin relay and the motor work but is some time he stopped, and if i turn of the dash switch and than turn on he works again than stopped again.

I cant put the speed signal because the car that i assemble this doensn't have speed sinal digital.

Please if you could help me

Regards
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I am having the same issues as some others on here are having. The pump is running backwards. Any reason why? What needs done.
I'm just speculating, but maybe the pump see's there is no load when it's being bench tested and some programming code tells it to spin backward to try and bleed air from the system. I would be willing to bet that if the warning light was hooked up, it would be flashing a code for a fault.

Just an idea though.
That is an interesting thought.

I was also wondering how many people hooked theses up according to the diagram? As someone pointed out the relay wont ever close because it isn't hooked to ground. I metered out the connectors and put the relay on 8 if I remember right and then it worked fine.
I connected my pump using this diagram and is working very good.



The pump computer is commanding the relay so off course you can't find ground until the computer is switching that pin to the ground. It's not just an electric motor and a pump, it's a very smart system with sensors and a computer , bench test may be tricky. If you want a dumb pump get the old style MR2 pump year 99 or earlier I think. Like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-MR2-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item484d3082d8&vxp=mtr
I wish I just had a "dumb" pump but already have two of these. The only thing I want them to do is turn on off the ign and run wide open until they are turned off.

So what is going on? When I wired it up as shown nothing. When take power straight to the main power (number one on the left set of pins) and to number one on the right set of pins and gnd hooked up it runs. But it runs backwards.

Not sure what is going on now. As soon as I take power and gnd to the main pins on the left it turns on but still backwards.

So something internal changes and pin 5 becomes a gnd? The pulse speed is optional correct?

Thanks for the reply's.
I actually have a "dumb" MR2 pump I'm wanting to get rid of. Interested in a trade? I know it works, as I had it hooked up, but I didn't like that it ran full blast all the time as I didn't want to have to switch it.
I will keep you in mind. I shouldn't have said I have two. They are a friends of mine. I am the one who is to get them working. I only tried the one so far, dont know the scoop on the other.
No worries, I just bought a 3rd gen pump on eBay today, but I'd like to recoupe some of my money from the pump I have now, or trade for a spare.
Hey Everybody,

I'm new to the forum, and I appreciate all of the collective knowledge here on this EHPS pump.

I have a 3rd gen MR2 pump that I have wired up as indicated in Dmitri's original post. The external relay clicks back and forth when the ignition power is supplied, but the pump motor does not turn.

However, the pump will operate as intended when I connect the 8 gauge power directly to a 12 volt source (by passing the relay). When wired this way, the pump is on when the ignition power is supplied to the other pins, and off when the ignition power is not supplied.

I've tried several relays with the same result. Any ideas?

Thanks.
Does anyone have an answer to this problem? I have just recently bought a MR2 hyd pump (2001-2005 with integrated ECU) and am having the exact same problem. The pump will turn on and run fine, but it runs backward. This is the third pump I have tried( peugeot 307, subaru xt6 and MR2) and all three have had something wrong with them. The 307 runs at what seems about 20 rpm and puts out zero pressure, the xt6 I cannot even get to turn on (although I haven't really tried anything more than just hooking a pos and neg leads to the big terminals) and the MR2 runs backward. I really would like to figure out the MR2 because it came with a really nice mounting bracket that fit perfectly and I have the fittings for the hyd lines already. Thanks in advance.
i have that's problem too.
there was a solution?

ps. i read errors from ecu
21,52,55
it's don't erase
When ig turn on ps pump runs but wrong direction. Then it's overheating i think and turn of.
Your suggesting the vss signal from the car has to be hooked up to the gen 3 p/s pump. For my first build, I am going to abandon this idea of using the hydroboost, a vacuum pump should be sufficient.
Pre-93 Dodge Caravan with ABS does not have a vacuum booster. Has a hydrobooster, but it works with its own electric motor, and has a pressure reservoir. In that system you have 3 times of full brake pedal use before pump goes on to build pressure. If I remember correctly that system has a pressure switch with multiple functions (different presure-close circuits) that may allow for it to be wired to work as conventional brakes without the need of ABS controller.
Has anybody tried using an electric pump from a Volvo s40? I think all I need is the +30 12volt and ground and then a +15 12 volt, I'm hoping it will run with out the can bus wires.
Has anybody tried using an electric pump from a Volvo s40? I think all I need is the +30 12volt and ground and then a +15 12 volt, I'm hoping it will run with out the can bus wires.
All you need to make this pump run is a solid ground, 12 volt input and tie one of the three can wires to the 12 volt supply wire. Beware that there is a few second delay when powering the pump on. I posted a YouTube video showing how the pump works with a small danfoss steering valve.
Thanks drywaller appreciate the responce. Do you know off hand what size the fitting for the pressure side was?
I think it is a 1.5x14 bit don't hold me to that. I have one in my tool box. When I get a minute I'll grab it and see if I can confirm.
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