Best bet is to buy a book like easoneason did. They usually cover the available OEM variations. They came with various gear ratios and tailshaft housing lengths, with different input shaft splines for different torque converters, with and without rear pump, fluid cooled and (shudder) air cooled. The books usually tell you what to look for.So what is the best year to get? I have seen a few used ones from 60 to $300. Just wondering to see whats out there.
Something I guss that didn't come through from earlier posts by several. A small high pressure electric gear pump like a fuel injection in inline pump and an inline reverse flow check valve, mounted in or with the trans and plumbed into the main pressuure test port. Pump is switched on under coast and/or stop. This should maintain enough pressure to make this thing work fine. Power consumption of course depends on the pump specs and how you want to use it. You might want to port vacuum ti the modulator at idle as that lowers the required pressure if you want to stay fully automatic. A good trans guy could set this up pretty fast.How fast do you idle the motor to keep pressure up? Do you know how much power this costs you? How much lag time did you have with the old system?
I understood that and realize it's a good idea, my questions were directed at installerjacks previous post where he idled the motor. I just wondered about the details I asked about above.Something I guss that didn't come through from earlier posts by several. A small high pressure electric gear pump like a fuel injection in inline pump and an inline reverse flow check valve, mounted in or with the trans and plumbed into the main pressuure test port. Pump is switched on under coast and/or stop.
Not at all, I took nothing personal from your post, just wanted to set the record straight so installerjack might answer me.JRP2
Sorry if I came across heavy handed. My interpersonal skills never were worth squat.
Got another question about powerglides.
I'm looking at a motor with top rpm of 11,000.
Do you think that the innards of a powerglide would be able to stand up to that? Then I could simply use the powerglide as a gear reduction box (1.82:1) along with a 5.85:1 rear diff and be free from shifting ever again.