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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
So what is the best year to get? I have seen a few used ones from 60 to $300. Just wondering to see whats out there.
Best bet is to buy a book like easoneason did. They usually cover the available OEM variations. They came with various gear ratios and tailshaft housing lengths, with different input shaft splines for different torque converters, with and without rear pump, fluid cooled and (shudder:eek:) air cooled. The books usually tell you what to look for.

The thing is that every piece used in powerglides has multiple choices available in the hot rod/drag race community. You can build anything from stock to a monster that can handle a 1000 HP.

Whatever you do, unless your are building something very light, stay away from the air cooled PGs (they dont have cooler line fittings)

As yoo can tell, I just love glides.
Have fun
Jim
 

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In my Chevelle Powerglide that I built, I have the cooler lines plugged up and heat is not a problem. A race Powerglide builder in Texas where I get my part says that because I have my stator support cut way back, I do not need the cooler lines.
Also, I have one golf cart 6V battery(which is part of my controller) that keeps the motor turning when I let of the gas pedal. It comes to an idle when I turn the key on.
It keeps the pressue up and shifts fine from neutral to low. I used to just bump the 12V to get pressure up and then go, but with the idle, it is much more like a regular vehicle.
If there are any other questions I can help with, just ask,
Jack.
poormansev.com
I wish someone made a little bitty powerglide for my electric harley!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
How fast do you idle the motor to keep pressure up? Do you know how much power this costs you? How much lag time did you have with the old system?
Something I guss that didn't come through from earlier posts by several. A small high pressure electric gear pump like a fuel injection in inline pump and an inline reverse flow check valve, mounted in or with the trans and plumbed into the main pressuure test port. Pump is switched on under coast and/or stop. This should maintain enough pressure to make this thing work fine. Power consumption of course depends on the pump specs and how you want to use it. You might want to port vacuum ti the modulator at idle as that lowers the required pressure if you want to stay fully automatic. A good trans guy could set this up pretty fast.

With this set up you could stay fully automatic and still not need a torque converter just a pump drive. Play with the pressures and valving and you could make it stay in low until 50 mph or so then automatically shift into high and then downshift below 50 mph. I think you would just need to lock down the "passing gear" lever on the gearshift input shaft when you were in drive and adjust intenal pressures to soften up the shifts.

I beleive one of the hybrids uses just that pump system for their "automatic"

installerjack

Look at a Honda 750 with Torque converter and two speed dog clutch gear, manually shifted trans. Bet you could cut the engine Off the trans case (actually I know you can, we've done it) and use the rest on your Harley. Have to grind off the Honda names though:D

Neat stuff.

Jim
 

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Something I guss that didn't come through from earlier posts by several. A small high pressure electric gear pump like a fuel injection in inline pump and an inline reverse flow check valve, mounted in or with the trans and plumbed into the main pressuure test port. Pump is switched on under coast and/or stop.
I understood that and realize it's a good idea, my questions were directed at installerjacks previous post where he idled the motor. I just wondered about the details I asked about above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
JRP2

Sorry if I came across heavy handed. My interpersonal skills never were worth squat.:eek:

I'm just so up about wanting to see this work and knowing I personally can't do it, I get excited as I see people geting closer or as I see it (I have a perfect picture in my mind) farther away. I just have to pop off.

Just my nature, don't mean anything by it.

Still want mommy to buy me an AMPphibian:D. When I finish my puller I"m going to go look for one. They seem light enough I could work on them.

Jim
 

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JRP2

Sorry if I came across heavy handed. My interpersonal skills never were worth squat.:eek:
Not at all, I took nothing personal from your post, just wanted to set the record straight so installerjack might answer me.
However, I take offense that you've demoted me from JRP3 to JRP2! :mad::D
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
. . . . you've demoted me from JRP3 to JRP2! :mad::D
You've got that wrong, I just moved you closer to perfection which is zero defects.

Wont buy that huh. Well ok then I'm sorry , please please master don't beat me.

Sorry,
Jim
 

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I am guessing it is around 500 rpm, never measured it.
My motor pulls around 150 amps on the 6V idleing.
I always have to charge the other batteries long before I charge the 6V.

There is a little delay and a little bump without the 6V idle but still drivable.
But much better and more like a normal car with the idle.

I bought my stepson one of those old Honda automatics.
That's a definite future project.
Sort of like the old fluid drives in Desoto's and other Chrysler products.
Jack.
 

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Jim,
Got another question about powerglides.
I'm looking at a motor with top rpm of 11,000.
Do you think that the innards of a powerglide would be able to stand up to that? Then I could simply use the powerglide as a gear reduction box (1.82:1) along with a 5.85:1 rear diff and be free from shifting ever again.
Thoughts?
Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Jim,
Got another question about powerglides.
I'm looking at a motor with top rpm of 11,000.
Do you think that the innards of a powerglide would be able to stand up to that? Then I could simply use the powerglide as a gear reduction box (1.82:1) along with a 5.85:1 rear diff and be free from shifting ever again.
Thoughts?
Eric
Eric,

This is only my opinion and I may be wrong, but from a gut feeling, I think a steady diet of that kind of rpm would pretty much overpower even a full out racing glide. (like BOOM :eek:)

I dont think even a manual trans would live long at that kind of input rpm.

If you are really planing to use this motor, find some way to reduce it by 1/2. It would be much better to put a 2 to 1 reduction in between the motor and trans. I have seen (don't remember where) planetary gear reduction units that would fill the bill.

A 5500 rpm limit is more in the range of design limits of any automotive trans, Plus that allows you to stay with a more reasonable rear end gear.

Just my thoughts,
 

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I don't know that much about powerglides but I'd think high torque numbers would be more damaging than high RPM's. Since powerglides can be built to handle high power race motors, and since they probably rev higher than 5500, I would think a powerglide should be able to occasionally go quite a bit higher. Pure speculation on my part, but certainly smaller import cars with auto trannys rev higher than that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
JRP2 (oops I mean 3)

Race glides ($2000.00 -$4000.00 depending on what you put in them) regularly push 8-10000 rpm with 800-1000 ft lbs. But that is only for a 1/4 mile. They do get a bit hot, they do get torn down regularly, they do get new parts regularly. They are not often driven on the streets regularly.

For regular driving with a generic $1000.00 (home built for a lot less) beefed street glide (see TCI), my guess is 7000 rpm regularly would be a max limit. The clutch drum and planeteries in a glide are not that big in diameter, but at even at 7000 rpm your going to be close to the limit before they start comming apart. Maybe going to the available exotic metal parts, better bearings, then up the oil pressures and increase the lube flow for better cooling, Now we are back up to BIG money.

I'm assuming your talking about a converterless setup. With a torque converter you wouldn't want anything bigger then an 8 inch (big money) and even that at 11000 rpm :eek::eek::eek::eek: yipes !!! I'd want some THICK metal around it. Also again BIG money.

You can buy off the shelf specal explosion proof bell housing and trans case castings, but bring money.

I've looked at the available A/C motors (like the Ford/Seimens) that turn those kinds of rpm, in conjecture it looks like the output shaft Ford is part of a gear reduction unit.

In the long run I think a converterless, standard glide with a 2 to 1 reduction unit placed in the area where the converter would go well with a high rpm motor. This would allow you to stay away from those expensive race parts.

P.S. I still want an AMPhibian.
 

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Thanks for the overview. Frankly with a motor that can turn 10,000 or more I don't even think you'd need a transmission, just a single speed gear reduction or just a low enough rear end if the vehicle isn't too heavy.
As for the AMPhibian, go for it, it's an easy build if you can find an old Max or Attex or something similar. :D The biggest problem I've had is the old ABS plastic body cracking, especially this winter. 10 degree weather and 35 year old ABS don't go together well. At least the Max's use poly bodies.
 

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Jimdear2-

How badly do you want that AMPhibian?

http://www.vintageprojects.com/go-kart/six-wheeler-go-kart-atv.html

If you can't find one for sale, BUILD one-and ignore the ICE configuration. It's a Plywood body though, so i'd probably seal the joins with a little fiberglass and swab some Deckstain/waterproofing on it. Browse the Homepage, you'll find plenty of weatherproofing techniques in the Boats section!
 

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I just bought a second hand TCI built circle track glide for $250. I plan to couple it to an AC50. It uses a coupler and no flex plate or t/c. I will keep you updated as to how it works.
 
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